FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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The Schrick flows a little more than than 2.9 manifold at the top end, but it's primary role was a torque boost as you say....but the Schrick actually makes 10lb/ft less torque at 1500rpm than the stock 2.9 manifold does. The peak torque doesn't happen until about 3000rpm, before and after that there isn't a massive difference over stock...but the torque shifts right down to 3000 instead of 4000, which is great for midrange punch and it knocks a second off the 50-70 time. -
Nice one mate. OBD1s and MAF sensors.... had my fill of that. Thank god I've got a standalone now :-) Enjoy your car now chap. You've had lots of probs and this is hopefully the break you deserve!
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I'm no genius, I just read a lot :-) Most of my turbo knowledge was kick started by Tom actually and the rest I've picked up over the years :-) This website is where I got my bedding info from and also Bill Schimmel. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Check out the differences between pistons bedded in the hard way and ones bedded in the soft way! The gentle bedding is a legacy of old, low tech engines and as Tom says, to cover manufacturers backs. Modern metals and tighter machining tolerances have practically done away with the need to bed engines in gradually. My girlfriend'
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Yep! Honing also traps oil, so think of the bedding process as the Rings "wet and drying" themselves to the bore shape ;-) As Tom says, 20 miles is all have to do this and purists would problably lift the head, rehone and rering and do it again if they miss the 20 mile window!
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Ah yeah, got the LC-1 / XD16 working properly now. Not sure what was wrong with it originally but I rewired it to the other side of the car in desperation and it seemed to right itself. Seems pretty good. Never goes richer than 12.5 on wide open, which is what we saw with Vince's motec aswell, so it can't be far off :-)
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I ran my 3.0 litre in aggressively. 3 Full throttle runs to 6K in 3rd gear, and then coast down to 2000rpm again in the same gear to keep the bores heavily lubed. You have a very short window of oppurtunity to get the rings cut into the bores properly before the honing wears away. Engines bedded in this way always make more power than those bedded in using the manufacturer's methods.....but manufacturers have long engine life and long service intervals to consider, us modders and performance drivers don't care about that ;-) If you're worried about wrecking a new motor, don't go as mad as
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My experience is basically just playing around with various VWs for 10+ years! Running 11psi at the moment. Don't want to over stretch the new engine. Expected power - Well it's at 350ish now, which will do me for a while. The turbo is 450hp capable, should I want to wind the wick up a bit in the future.
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As mentioned on Friday mate, mine used to do the same and was the MAF - which is an impossible sensor to diagnose on OBD1 without an oscilliscope and other lab equipment. The 15 psi difference between front and rear banks needs investigating, whether it be as a simple as the rear cam being a tooth out (I've done that before, LOL!) or a problem with the head, but it will upset the engine at low speeds.
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I can't remember the conti belt numbers, but VAG used to sell them as standard, think they've gone over to some japanese belt now....which is the one you've got!! GSF or Euro might be able to get the conti belts though. Odd that, I didn't see much of a torque increase going from 8 to 12 psi either, but I think that's because when you exceed 8psi, you really need to start intercooling the charge air, which is where the torque comes from. Aquamist will help to a degree...
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No you didn't, engine mount info in the first post ;-) I would advise that the fast road Vibratechnics gearbox mounts are cr@p though. They're good for a month and then go all floppy. Use the Comp spec or a solid rubber mount from a MK2/MK3 Golf diesel. Be aware that transmission whine increases massively with the comp gearbox mount, but the payoff is far superior shift quality compared to other mounts I've used. For those without A/C, pay particular attention to the pulley alignment on the idler bracket assembly that comes with the 8psi + kit. In most cases, the idler needs spacing out
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Blimey, not seen that happen before but the bottom plate is a little thin I have to say. I think you need to setup an online Shop Tom so that we can all buy your wares!
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Well done mate, pleased for you :-) They're about the same figures I got with 12psi aswell. Can you notice the extra 2psi though? I can't say I ever did really, maybe a little more pull past 5000 perhaps? Odd the belt is slipping, it held 12psi for me OK.....ah, but you've got aircon haven't you? Different tensioning arrangements...not sure if it makes a difference. What belt are you using? 7 rib continental belts grip really well and spray on some tack glue too.... every little helps!
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Yeah cheers Millsy mate, I am defo considering popping down to Hayward & Scott..... Hayward is my surname, so that's got to be a good omen? :-) The exhaust is my next step, so I'll discuss noise levels and clearance etc with them. Cheers on the EGT advice, I'll keep an eye out for sudden temp changes! Yep, MFA still fully functional except MPG, which is 99.9mpg as there's no VW ECU to give it duty cycle info, LOL! Yeah the TIAL sounds evil mate, really shifts that air, scares the living daylights out of pedestrians :-)
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Where can I get just the coils from? Can I run them straight from the DTA if it's got internal preamps? I might be able to fudge together a 'kit' like that for myself if you can supply the coils and plug ends? Cheers
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Yeah, tight over the rear axle! Few updates... 3.0 in, but obviously doesn't look any different to the 2.9, LOL! There are few changes to spot though.... TIAL 50.5mm BOV replaces 25mm Forge Motorsport one. New custom made oil line rerouted to avoid another fire! BMC in place of K&N filter BEGI FRP gone and replaced with SX 1:1 fuel riser MAF deleted 440cc genesis injectors in Turbosmart boost control valve in and locked to 11psi I'm sure it'll change many times over but for now, it's like this....messy, but functional ;-) DTA tucked up in the Glovebox. Currently tuned at a really ba
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Yeah strange as it's a decent Bosch LSU 4.25 probe and they're normally good for 100K, according to Bosch themselves. I suspect the people that are failing them quickly either have them too close to the turbo or are getting wet somehow. Thank god Vince had a decent Wideband otherwise we would have been stuffed mapping the DTA. Yeah AEM was a brand mentioned to me too, so that's encouraging. I will double check my install of the LC-1/XD16 though as it's nice kit. Yeah I spoke to Hayward and Scott and seemed to welcome the challenge. Not sure I'd go 3" though, but rather 2.5" as a happy m
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The front mount is isolated from the chassis by 2 rubber donuts at each end of the X member, so you can afford to go stiff on that one. The rear mount, if too stiff, will transmit a lot of harsh vibration into the cabin. I've tried them all, VT, VF poly, modified standards etc etc and I've found the VT (or maybe Tom's potentially) fast road spec to be a good compromise. I'm not saying every subframe cup will shear off, but if you look at the quality of VW's welding (i.e lack of) and the guage of the steel, they can and do snap off over time, especially if weakened by rusting. I've seen it h
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LC-1 Wideband proving to be unreliable. We mapped it with a known accurate MoTec wideband because the LC-1 was all over the place, for instance the LED array was full lean, but at idle, the readout was 9!!! I think it's a faulty one but Stealth have seen this before on another one when trying to map an R32. So I'm now investigating a proper Wideband kit, but not the MoTec as it's £800!!! LOL, no the turbo cools down very quickly. That glowing occurred because we put loads of preload into the dyno and kept it boosting whilst doing the midrange mapping. It won't do that so often on the r
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Cheers Tom. Yeah it's the 3.0. Vince said it's not quite as punchy initially as the 2.9 as the turbo is having to fill a 106cc bigger hole and it's still tight, but once it's fully loosened up and I fit a more restrictive throttle for the short intake, I should get some urgency back in the lower rpms again, but yeah, it's very progressive. The torque curve is like table top mountain :-) Sorry about broadcasting the manifold prob, I figured a few of us are using them and wanted them to check it first to avoid the issue I had. I guessed they're all the same so didn't mention it to you first,
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Been fiddling around with the DTA and starting to get some figures. Unfortunately Stealth's rollers max'd out (279.4 whp) so all we could get were 327hp and 312lb/ft with 11psi...but the graphs were still climbing. Using some maths Vince worked it out to be around 350 crank hp, so I need to find a better rolling road to do the final setup on. What makes this engine is the torque. By 2000rpm it's making more than a stock 2.9 VR6 and at 3000rpm we have 312lb/ft and peaks at 4100rpm with god knows what, which holds to the red line. What this means on the open road is pulling a 5 car length
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Hmmm, looks to be a copy of the Vibra mount and looks like it will fail in the same way the Vibras do too. Did you bond the rubber to the 'cup' under the alloy block? RCF's post above says it all. VT comp for the front and fast roads for the rear and gearbox. It is the rear mount that introduces harshness as it's not isolated from the subframe like the front mount is. I used to use the TDI solid rubber box mount but they don't last too long. Vibras throughout now. Put the comps on all round last week but going back to fast roads!! I would also reinforce the rear two engine mount cups
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The gasket isn't about reducing radiant heat, but rather heat transfer from the head through the fanimold. By seperating the Fanimold and head with a non heat conductive layer, you drastically reduce capillary heatsoak.... That's the theory at least, but in practice they do feck all as I've experimented with it on my engine. Dyno your motor on a cold day and you think it's the spacer giving more power, but not the cold air then? All VRs make 10hp more over winter, just because of the colder, denser intake air. But more crucially, do you actually feel that 10hp increase? Not really is th
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AMD haven't been the same since Geoff left. I wouldn't go there either. They used to be quite good mechanics and enthusiasts, but are now just plug and play Revo monkeys.
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It runs fine' date=' but as it's using the brute force method (loads of pressure through small injectors), it runs very fat, which means economy is terrible, LOL! Long term though, I'd recommend larger injectors which you can meter more efficiently with a decent remap and therefore get reasonable economy on boost. But boost dependant regulators and stock ECU and injectors does work. There's a guy on the Corrado forum that's built a squirt and running it on his VR6. Normally aspirated first to test it and now he's doing the turbo install. What he did say was that even on N/A, the engine fel
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Yeah good idea as there's always people that miss group buys due to cash shortages etc.
