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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. I hope not as I'm looking forward to seeing a few more VR6 Turbos creep out of the woodwork this year :-) As for Vince he's sound as a pound. Been going there for 7 years with assorted VWs! There is one thing though, he really needs some better rollers now with all these turbos kicking about, LOL! I think his can 'only' measure a max of 300 whp (360ish crank) :-)
  2. No worries Dave, when / if the Mezieres packs up I will certainly try one of your Bosch pumps. Turboed Alpine engine looks superb! I trust you will be chargecooling that? ;-) Jim - The standard ECU can cope OK if reprogrammed well, to a point. OBD2 is slightly better as it has a few more features to aid the remapper add better lambda control. In terms of hardware for mapping, you will need a larger MAF housing (4") and 440cc injectors. That will give you a smooth engine, up to 15-17psi. The biggest shortfall of OEM ECUs is the ability to compensate for boost and you're always stuck with a
  3. System 1s with the DDS3 makes a nice system. As for do you actually need water injection? Not really. It's the same with intercooling, it's not essential for up to 8psi but an intercooled engine will be more consistent than one that isn't.
  4. Thanks for your views and elightenment. It's good to know there are good alternatives out there if need be. Yes Mr Schimmel has built rear engined cars and plenty of drag cars and used the same chargecooler setup on all of them. As far as I know he hasn't built any off road buggies - not much demand for those in Warminster USA. Like yourself, a lot of the parts Schimmel use are custom made to his specifications, so it is also unlikely you have used the exact Meziere pump he uses. No, you're right, you can't say one pump is best, but you do on your website though - "Chargecooler systems are on
  5. Not saying he isn't and he does know his stuff, but as is always the way with forums, what you read and what is reality are seldom the same thing, for example, according to forums you mustn't run injectors beyond 80% duty. Why exactly? I do and it works fine and has done for over 1000 miles so far. Now it seems Mezieres pumps are too overkill, despite the fact Bill Schimmel has been using them for years on the worlds most powerful VWs and the Bosch one Dave sells on his Chargecooler website is curiously the best one you can get. Funny that. I must mention this to Bill actually and get his in
  6. The Meziere's is far from overkill and they don't leak. Ask Bill Schimmel how many he's had fail on him. They are fine to run dry aswell as I've done it on mine with no issues. Mezieres takes 2 seconds to do a complete circuit and there are no leaks at the fittings. How can the water flow over it too fast? That's rubbish. The whole idea of chargecoolers is to get the heat out of the core as quickly as possible as the air path is MUCH shorter than an air-air system.
  7. Not a fan of alloy pulleys personally. The stock ones serve a purpose, to absorb conrod harmonics (twisting vibration) mainly. American tuners by and large don't care about refinement and reliability, just the hp numbers, and therefore don't mention the downsides. The only way to make proper power from a VR6 is forced induction I'm afraid.
  8. Just want to add that both Raj at NSRacing and Dub25 are brilliant guys to deal with. You have no fears. Get your orders in!
  9. Good info there, particularly on the water line bore sizing. At a more basic level, what is more effective at cooling a burning hot piece of metal? Blowing on it (air - air) or pouring water over it (air - water)? Obviously the latter, so air-water is better than air-air at a basic physics level, period. Where it all goes wrong is people skimping on Rad and pump size as Dave says. And also, the intercooler core must not be mounted anywhere near the exhaust manifold, which is completely counter-productive. So now that you've got a good IC core (such as Spearco) with 0.25psi drop (compared
  10. You need the water 'mix' for 2 reasons :- 1) Water is not flammable, but is the most efficient, natural coolant there is, other than CO2 and NOS. It literally steam cleans your piston crowns and valves, aswell as absorbing excess cylinder heat. The downside is atomised water interferes with the atomised fuel a little too much, so you need something combustable to replace it with, hence the methanol (which is also a good coolant aswell), but too much methanol is not good and it won't burn and drop your power. Nitromethane is also a good additive and that will boost your power something chron
  11. Thanks matey. 3.0 forged motor going in on the 8th Jan + DTA management, so should be quite interesting :-)
  12. LOL! Don't worry, it's only a temporary measure :-) At the moment I'm 4" MAF with stock software and stock injectors + BEGI FMU and I tell you what, she pulls fantastic. 100% duty is indeed iffy sounding, but in reality it's just the pintle fully open and the BEGI blasting fuel through at 100psi..... it's not as bad as it sounds and is good for up to 20psi of boost, just not very economical, LOL!, but fuel on the fat side is safe ;-) In fact, if I didn't give a toss about economy, I'd leave it that way as it's really smooth and torquey, but I want more control over the tune, hence the DTA P
  13. I only have figures from my old S/C setup but hope to get figures for the turbo in the new year. Vortech V9 Stage 2 8psi Stock 2.9 engine OBD2 Water injection 289hp 260lb/ft Dyno'd at stealth Feb 06 Vortech V9 Stage 3 12psi Stock 2.9 engine OBD2 Water injection Schimmel short intake 120mph exceed in 4th so dyno stopped measuring at 317hp 280lb/ft Dyno'd at stealth August 06
  14. Is your VR OBD2? If it is, monitor the knock tables on the rolling road and you should see the effects of the water. Without water and running 8psi, you usually get up to 14 units of knock at the top end. Anything over 6 is bad. With water, you see no more than 6, but ideally 0. Use the 0.6mm jet with a mix of 70% battery water (or the jet will scale up), 20% methanol and 10% Holts screen wash. The latter is the only wash that is still methanol based and will still be good for your windscreen. Won't harm the pump. Pump must be mounted below washer tank so that it's gravity fed. Set MPS to
  15. Works fine for me running the stock injectors at 100% duty.
  16. I use FedEx for shipping mate. They're not cheap, but they've proven to be extremely reliable for me and take good care of the packages, so I just stick to what I know. UPS are good too. Fuel pump an absolute must, even with 8psi. I recommned the Sytec one from Stealth as it comes with a decent fitting kit to allow it to seat properly in the OE pump housing. Nice easy job and peace of mind. Costs £95 which isn't bad....cheaper than replacing holed pistons ;-) I've had my Sytec running at 100psi with no problems so far, so it's man enough for 15psi easily. I think Sytec quote 500hp c
  17. That's what I quizzed Tom about initially and he said not to worry about it. Millsy, no worries chap. I'd have preferred to have stuck with OBD2 as it's nice and smooth, but ultimately, the DTA can manage boost better.
  18. NSRacing are worthy of consideration also as they did us a Group Buy price of £2000+VAT for the STAGE 2 kit last year, which was a really good deal.
  19. It takes over the fuelling and ignition from the Stock ECU ;-) It's purpose made for the tuner wanting peak performance and has other features, including Traction control which uses the existing ABS. It references the rear wheels and if the fronts spin faster than the rears, it kicks in appropriate ABS pump outlet to stop spin. I think it also alters the map to cut boost and igntion too. OE traction control doesn't work very well with Quaife diffs though, so it will be interesting to see if the DTA is any better in that respect. There's also launch control, what ever that is, and various ou
  20. $500?!! That's way too much, even for FedEx! Aquamist not necessary if the intercooler is efficient.....but if you do want water injection, go Aquamist as Coolingmist isn't in the same league at all. You have to be careful with jet size and trigger point or you can end up washing out the AF mix and drop power. Similarly, too much methanol to replace the ignitable mix, will work against you also. This a good source of info on all things water - http://www.aquamist.co.uk/phpBB2/ Personally I think water is better suited to superchargers. Turbos aren't rpm governed and therefore you can swam
  21. Yeah it confused me too, but you learn quickly, especially when lots of ££££s are at stake ;-) The GT35 and GT40 series are normally what Schimmel use on their 500-850hp cars, they are your top end monsters! I just said to Bill that I want a stonking midrange and he sent the GT3071 over.....he knows his apples that man ;-)
  22. DTA kit.... MUCH cheaper from the US.
  23. Yes that is a good saving and you worked it out correctly. UK harmonised import codes from the US = 2.6% and VAT as you know, another 17.5%. LFVR6's comment seems fairly typical of UK shoppers, seemingly reluctant to shop overseas assuming it's a pig load of hassle. Well it isn't, far from it. Order something on a Monday, and it's at your desk on Wednesday morning before 10am. Where's the hassle there I ask you? :-) FedEx (who are fappin excellent) or UPS will just invoice you for the duty and VAT at a later date, so DON'T forget to budget for it. Don't think you've gotten away with
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