FishWick
-
Content Count
2,636 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
VR6OC News
Website Content
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Store
Collections
Community Map
Everything posted by FishWick
-
When importing from America, you have to budget for the following:- Exchange rate - Ignore XE.com, it's never the actual rate you see on your credit card statement (the banks steal more from you). Import duty - It's usually 2.6% on auto parts up to a certain value. VAT - Another 15% on top. Shipping - it constantly changes, but FedEx is cheaper on Mondays and Wednesdays, but they often change their discount days and rates. Handling fee - Some couriers charge you a fee for "handlnig" your internation parcel. At the moment, it's not worth buying anything from the US or EU, source from the UK.
-
The Bahnbrenner kit is leagues ahead of the ebay one, although it will cause a few fitting headaches in UK cars. The Ebay kit has been discussed before and it's not much cop. It's not really a kit, but more of a starting point!
-
Because if the wastegate and wastegate dump route are restrictive, the unwanted gases will back up into the cylinders, robbing power and increasing EGTs. It's not essential to use a big wastegate in low boost applications, because it's mainly at high revs it becomes a problem, but if your project can afford the space and outlay, then I'd recommend it. You'll hold a better power and torque curve to 7000rpm with a big wastegate than you would with a small restrictive one.
-
Yeah that's him :-) JKM did most of what you see in that write up, engine and exhaust wise, and I rate them highly just from seeing the pics of their work!
-
Depends on the turbo size and target boost pressure. A GT35R sized, I'd use the Tial 44mm. GT30s are OK with the 38mm, but bigger is better with low boost (up to 15psi).
-
Yeah I'm broke too!! Metal hard lines are best, but I'm trying PTFE lined braided first and if that goes, I'll be going stainless hard line!!
-
Good work!! Your oil hose problem is exactly what happened to my water hoses that fed the turbo, rubber just isn't up to the job long term!
-
My mate's tigging is up to his usual high standards, it really pays knowing someone who can weld :-) In an attempt to modernise the engine and make it better to drive, I've had my Schimmel intake modified to take a Bosch direct to manifold MAP sensor. It's also an air intake sensor too, so makes things neat and compact. I've blocked off the servo outlet on runner 6 as I prefer to take a servo vac feed from the whole plenum. The silver sensor is for my boost gauge... Denso 1220 500cc injectors, the best bar none. These instantly transform the VR6's idle. Totally smooth and rock steady
-
I think so chap. I think it's the "ground off" dodgy ones that cause problems. C2 told me they cut open a genuine SPA manifold and pretty thick walls, but I cut open mine where it cracked and it was only 3mm thick!!
-
Mine did 320 at 12psi with a completely standard engine + water injection. It didn't feel any better than Stage 2 on the road. I wouldn't bother personally, stick with Stage 2. You're making above average numbers and pushing the charger a lot more for an extra 20 ponies isn't worth it, you won't feel it on the road.
-
It's not half as much work with the SPA manifold mate..... you can see what's involved with that at the start of this thread....
-
LOL, that isn't necessarily a good endorsement :-)
-
OK, sent the first couple of bits of exhaust off to my mate for tigging up. They are a V band ring with tight 3" 90 for the turbo and a 1.75" flex bellow and fitting for the Tial wastegate.... Whilst waiting on those, I thought I'd bolt the turbo on. I used Stage8 locking bolts which seem very nice, only time will tell if they hold the turbo bolts still! I also started making up the oil and water lines. I couldn't get the hardlines I wanted for the water due to supply issues, plus you need an expensive tool to debur and flare the ends to 37 degrees, so I used PTFE lined braided inste
-
Glad you like it mate, I hope it's detailed enough for someone that's never done a turbo conversion before! Get convincing on the old wife, you won't regret it :-)
-
Blimey, what a bargain! Cheers guys Do you find the lower one makes much difference to shell stiffness?
-
Where did you get that rear one from? That's precisely what I've been after! Move the tank further out (I.e. towards the front of the car) if possible, rather than down as to not upset the gravity effect.
-
Yeah the AEM gets good reviews. I also like the PLX Devices M300, very simple plug and play and has proven to be accurate for a number of tuners. Good price too. Where do you guys mount your probes in relation to the turbo? Mine's currently in the standard VR6 position (near the front Anti-roll bar) but thinking of moving it closer to the turbo.....
-
I'd keep to 15psi on that compression personally and it will also prolong the life of the Supercharger. Is it a V9? They struggle to make 20psi, even with the uprated bearings and the belt tension required is horrendous. You'll be replacing water pumps and alternators sooner than you'd like....
-
83mm inside diameter for the BMC. see if you can get an 83 to 76mm reducer. If not, you'll just have to nip it up tighter on the MAF
-
-
Yeah these pumps need a sleeve in order to fit in the stock pump cradle properly. Only stealth supply that, they had it custom made for the job. The wiring is easy enough, joins onto the stock loom no probs. One other thing worthy of note with the Cossie spec one is it sits in the stock position, so you can run it with the tank below 1/4 full no probs. Other pumps I've tried sit higher up in the tank and you start pumping air around 1/4 tank. R32 rotrex - should be enough fuel there, but personally on that engine / charger combo I'd be running an external pump too. It's not as nasty or a
-
Sounds good then. If it is a TO4E, that's defo capable of 400whp :-)
-
Will you be running an external pump at some point? Bosch 044 or something? If so, I would personally ditch the stock plastic lines and replace end to end with -6 heavy duty rubber hoses and heat lag them around the turbo area. In the meantime, I think the standard hoses, lagged, will be fine. I ran 80+ psi through those with the BEGI on my first setup and they held no probs. I've tried different hoses on the plastic lines and they just don't attach snugly like the stock hoses, you end up crushing the plastic lines with the jubilee clips in order to get a good enough seal.
-
Still waiting on a couple of 3" stainless angles (seems they're in short supply) so I cracked on with the brake resevoir relocation. Using some fittings I had laying around, I chopped off the lugs from the stock resevoir and grafted them on for a factory tight seal. Make sure you use proper hose that's brake fluid resistant. I lagged the hoses in a special abrasion resistant covering in case the turbo contacts them. There's about 2 cm clearance around the turbo for the hoses, which if you have uprated mounts should be plenty.... This was a bit of a ball ache getting the lengths right for c
-
Not really. To do it properly the manifold has to come off to enlarge the hole and the dump tubes and flex bellow needs upgrading to 1.75" bore.
