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Everything posted by shail
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Sounds like the cables behind the temperature dial have detached from the cold air flap. Check that the cables at the rear of the dials.
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HEELLLLLLPPPPP! clicking noise......now stuttering too
shail replied to DanH's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Could be battery. When mine was on its way out I started to hear all sorts of clicking noises behind dash before it died. Guess it was just gettin confused with voltage drops making relays etc click. Get batterY and altenator checked out. -
Cheers, didn't realise you could buy the seals from VW. I think I'll just do that instead of trying to seal again. I tired getting the spanner out tonight with a magnet attached to a coat hanger. No luck, as I can't see or tell where it is!
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I've got a leak on my rear FK Automotive lights. I removed them, and added an extra layer of foam, but they still leak. Couple of questions: 1. What can I use to seal them better (currently using some draft excluder foam). 2. If you dropped your spanner down the side of the boot on the drivers side, between the inner skin and outer skin, near the rear lights, how would you get the spanner out?
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Auxiliary Belt came off car whilst driving
shail replied to Mul6's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
The pully in the tensioner could have seized, Causing the belt to come off. With the belt off, the temp would have gone up anyway, so your water pump may be ok, but obviously check anyway. -
How short? You could just wind then off under the rear ashtray, connect up and re-tighten nuts under ashtray so suit
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I get a similar noise for a split second when starting from cold if its been sitting over the weekend. I've been told it takes a second for the oil pressure to get to where it needs to be. I would check the oil pump is working properly, especially seeing as its a new one.
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Best place for VW parts is GSF. they have shops all over the UK, and also deliver. Sounds like you need a new header tank,
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The bulb has probably gone. You need to prise off the plastic surround around the dials. You'll see screws behind the surround. Remove the screws, there are also a couple behind the ashtray, so pull out the ashtray aswell. Withdraw dials in one piece, there is only one bulb which you should be able to see buried round the back of the central dial.
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I had some of those khumos on the front. Lasted 17k miles, and were cheap. I wouldn't buy them again. Started out ok, but after wearing down grip levels fell off quite badly. I replaced them last week with Hankook Evo V12 AT £60 a Corner from black circles. Grip is good, but haven't had a dry day since they were put on. Also had Toyo Proxes. Excellent dry grip, however tyre squeal at every opportunity, and lasted less than 8k on front!
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Water leak in boot! Help is this common & where is it leaking!!
shail replied to roosevelt1st's topic in Bodywork and Styling
I have exactly the same issue. Rear footwell was wet, so thought it may be sunroof leak. But noticed boot carpet wet too. I've had this issue before on a mk3, and I'm nearly certain its the foam seals on the rear lights again. check yours - remove bulb holder from boot, and un bolt the lights and withdraw to inspect seal. -
Just copy and paste the Greek to here: http://translate.google.com/#
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That fits 92- 94 according to the website. The one i'm looking at is based on a 1997 VR6, and is cheaper. Just compared the specs and they are different. The amp rating is lower on the one I have seen, and there are differences in the pulley dia & overhang The one you have seen: Qty Of Fit 1 Engine Code AAA Model Code (1H1) Data Source LUCAS Volts/amps 12V/120A Pulley Info Vees/dia/overhang 7/52/52 Termination B+(M8)D,+W Fixing Holes 4 Fixing Holes Size 8.2/M8 & 8.2/M8 Angle 90 Bhp 174 The one I have seen: Qty Of Fit 1 Engine Code AAA Model Code (1H1) Data Source LUCAS Volts/amps 1
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Just been to the eurocarparts site. They hava Lucas one for £131.17. Under the 'Additonal notes' it says: Pulley Info Vees/dia/overhang 7/61/54 Which suggests 7 vee's
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Sounds like you've bought an altenator for a non-VR6 golf. The VR6 has the seven ribbed belt as you say. Give them a call to confirm part numbers.
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My Bentley manual says 2 litres for a 02A manual gearbox.
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I used to live in Birmingham in Hall Green too, but live near Warwick now, but I'm in Brum quite often.
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My Bently manual says: 1. Temp gauge reads low, poor heater output - Faulty thermostat / Electric fan not switching off / Incorrect coolant concentration 2. Temp gauge reads low, heater output normal - Faulty temp gauge or coolant temperature sensor / Coolant old, causing inacurate gauge readings When it happened to me, it was a dodgy thermostat.
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UNEVEN STEERING FEEL
shail replied to MarksMintness's topic in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Sounds like a steering rack issue. I has same symptoms, which got worse over time. Eventually had to have the rack replaced. -
Oops. You must be gutted. What actually happened?
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From memory there are 3 or 4 bolts along top of wing under the bonnet, and one in the wheel arch. You'll need to remove wheel arch liners to get to it. The wing is also 'stuck' to the car along the line of the top bolts. I hear that using a hair dryer to heat up the wing loosens the adhesive.
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As above, check the metal pipes from pump. Mine went, they are very expensive to replace, think one of them costs about £180! Got mine from a scrapyard for £30ish in end.
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Rear brakes locked on
shail replied to Mk1 Vr6 james's topic in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Happened to me last time it was freezing. I just park it in gear and leave handbrake off if I think its gonna be cold overnight. As said above, its water getting in to the handbrake cable and freezing. There is a good guide for changing the cables on the net somewhere. -
All windows in can mist up in the winter/cold
shail replied to Timah89's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Mine is getting worse every year. Normally its just the windscreen, but this year its tailgate and rear windows. My rear footwell carpets are wet, apparently down to blocked sunroof drains. A blast of AC normally sorts out the misting issues quickly -
I've just 'repaired' my coil pack. I had a crack where yours in, as well as a couple on the other side. I took it off, cleaned it, dried it, and covered it in 'JB Weld' 2-part epoxy. Looks crap, but seems to have sorted the arcing / poor running. I also had the exposed wire on the MAF, made a massive difference when I sorted it out.