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shail

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Everything posted by shail

  1. Oh right I get you now.! When mine went I found it difficult to just get the black plastic pulley. I had to buy a whole tensioner which was £60 ish from GSF
  2. When I bought my new belt it cost about £15. Make sure you get the right one. When I bought my pulley they gave me the wrong one. There are 2 types for the VR6, one for cars with AC and without AC.
  3. GSF car parts do them, you may have a branch near by open on Saturday. Failing that its your VW dealer. Just for my benefit, why do you need a new one?
  4. There is normally a way to temporarily disarm your alarm - usually you have to input a PIN using a special key fob, or by counting the flashing red light you normally get with an alarm. OR stuff a rag into the sounder and put up with it for 5 mins
  5. Also, before you hack your wiring to bits, check the condition of the wires - When I looked at mine, the wire sheathing was cracked and I could see the corroed wires. Also from memory - you will need new crimps on the end of the wire, as removing the old ones means they will not seat correctly in the plug again.
  6. I sorted it with a bit of a 'bodge'. The wires which were corroded were corroded at the point they enter the multi-plug. Have a close look. Initial bodge (by RAC man) was to shove a paper clip into the multiplug where the wire had perished, and force the open end of the wire onto the paper clip - it was enough to get me home! I fixed mine by removing the plug, Then you can insert a small screw driver into the holes of the multiplug, and 'unhook' the crimped metal ends of the wire, which lets you withdraw the wire from the plug. Difficult to explain, but the wires have a small metal crimped
  7. I've had bogus rear ABS fault codes in the past, with the light randomly coming on then going off. My mechanic told me that dry/cracked solder joints on the ABS ECU can be to blame. He removed the ECU by 'tweaking' the metal pipes going into the ABS pump out of the way. He re-soldered some of the joints, which fixed the problem. Ive not had an ABS light on for about 2 years.
  8. Did you also replace the rear axle bushes? When mine were shot I was getting very bad wandering and poor cornering. Putting in new ones sorted it.
  9. Thanks for the info. It is the rear passenger footwell which is wet, mainly around the transmission tunnel. I'll check the lights - I've had it before, but that only got the boot wet.
  10. Hi all, I have a wet rear passenger footwell, so I'm thinking its a blocked sunroof drain. I can see where the front drains drain out of (front door pillar), but what route do the rear drains take?
  11. I had juddering at junctions / bends / acceleration. It turned out to be knackered wires into the MAF plug. On going round bend / acceleration etc.. the engine would rock on the engine mounts as normal, causing poor electrical connection to the maf, which knackereed up the fuel/air mixture, causing judder / stall
  12. Arcing - electricity jumps from one place to another through the air. In the case of a coil pack, you can see 'sparks' flying out from the body of the coilpack onto the HT leads. Normally caused by cracks in the plastic cover to the coilpack. Check out this vid on Youtube:
  13. yep, as above, it normal. Iv,e had my vr6 for 5yrs and had this is my second engine.
  14. If your revs are not matching the engine speed, then I would be looking at the clutch. Having timing issues would not produce higher revs for a given speed, as revs for a particular speed are set in stone by the gearing.
  15. THermostat housing is a total pig. I tried once, gave up, paid a garage to do it!
  16. I've just 'bodged' my coil pack last night. Took it off to find cracks on the top surface and bottom surface, and a couple on the front face, and the little plastic clip on cover was warped letting water in, causing corroison of the contacts under the plastic cover. I have coated the the entire plastic section with JB Weld epoxy, and also epoxyed the plastic cover. Hopefully that'll stop it running like a dog when its damp.
  17. Sounds like the service indicator was not reset during the last service, so the car doesnt know when it was last serviced. Not too sure about differences between IN01 and IN02
  18. MIne doesn't use that much water. How many miles are you doing between top ups? I'd check the coolant pipes for leaks, I've had two hoses leak, both were at locations where 2 pipes come together at a joint (large dia. one at back of block, and top radiator hose) Also it could be a dodgy seal on the header tank screw on lid - I've had that too - I just replaced the lid with a new one. Or could be head gasket issues.
  19. Need some help - does anyone know if the Mk3 Gti Anniversary was only available in a limited amount of colours? I am looking to buy a used body panel from a silver Mk3 anni, and was wondering if it was Satin Silver LB7Z that was used?
  20. You can try and repair your coilpack - there are quite a few how-to guides on the net. Basically you can take it off, dry it, and cover it with sealant. You can buy a new one but they are quite expensive. There are some on ebay for about £90. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-PASSAT-2-8-VR6-V6-COIL-PACK-BRAND-NEW-YEARS-1992-ON_W0QQitemZ280324812860QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item4144a9303c
  21. I have heated mirrors on my 97 non-highline. I know beacuase I broke one and the dealer wanted about £30 just for the mirror glass. Ended up sticking a cheapo one over the cracked one.
  22. My gear knob has a tear in it, so I want to replace it with a standardish looking one. Has anyone used a gear knob & gaitor from a Mk4 Golf / Polo / Other newer VW etc... with any success? I dont want to buy a used Mk3 one as it'll prob be in bad shape. Cheers.
  23. I've had a couple of hoses go, purley down to the age of the pipes. When you had the burst pipe where did all the water go? You could have shorted something out - the coilpack is near the pipe you mentions, and they are known to have cracked cases letting in water.
  24. Done it a few times taking rad hoses off. Works ok, but you'll never get all of the coolant out, so fill with water, run, empty, as mentioned above. There is a drain plug on the underside of the black plastic 'crack pipe' that runs along the front of the engine, which is where officially you should drain from. But its a bit of a pain to see / get to. You may also need a new drain plug & washer (available from VW for a couple of quid)
  25. Does sound like a thermostat prob. My car heats up very quickly, and the warm air starts to flow quite quickly too. I had a weak fan - i replaced the pollen filter and it made a MASSIVE difference.
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