Jump to content

RBPE

Members
  • Content Count

    548
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    26

Everything posted by RBPE

  1. http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=2973.0
  2. Hi all. Just getting a feeler for viability purposes. ​We have been dealing with a reputable UK company recently regarding the design and development of our own RHD cast exhaust manifolds for VR6 and R32 vehicles and due to the costs involved (five figures) we need to see how many of you would be interested in such things. These manifolds are made from stainless steel alloy rather than conventional cast iron so offer much better thermal resilience suitable if you still suffer from high EGT's. The manifolds will be designed and produced for RHD vehicles using CFD and the usual CAD aspects
  3. Expensive systems and interfaces for the win! These are the original main VR6 bins I have, they'll show up as the Bosch "16" maps and the like if you ever need any? Nyet's holding Doug's contribution to such tuning, good guide based on the Bosch function sheets - I'm not entirely sure how correct it is in full as I have worked through the original info myself and don't have time to compare but it's a damn good start to learn how to tune! http://nyet.org/cars/info/Translated%20Funktionsrahmen%20Modules%20(10-01-2012).pdf The thing with this is that you need a good soli
  4. I hybrided an R32 NA map with a 20vt map to take into account the variances between the ECU's (i.e. R32 change-over barrel on the VRIM v's the 20vt SRIM, different cam controls etc) and have the major map areas for them both here. Not perfect English as some bits are just straight from the translator machines but cut and paste is easier than translator! I'll put up some screen shots of fully English translated VR6 maps I have (12v/24v & R32) in the near future if that's of help to anyone? Here are a lot of the main areas you will find when tinkering with winOLS - (the map areas chang
  5. I'd suggest staying away from cheap ebay turbo's. The material is sub standard and as it is pliable if you start running any half decent boost then it'll warp and likely hit the compressor housing and destroy your engine and turbo when it breaks - with the cost of fuelling and mapping it's literally throwing money away!
  6. If you were to build a road car to anything over about the standard 7000rpm rev limit then I would say NOOOOOOOO! First and foremost you can get over 900hp on the standard rev limit, it has been done (turboimpression being one), you're also going against the undersquare design of the engine. You are also increasing greatly the likelyhood of damage due to the offset and highly increased piston speeds on an undersquare engine.... not needed and goes against the proper tuning principles of the VR6 engines.... i.e. undersquare-esque tuning. Get everything properly aligned and tolerances done pro
  7. Get an SPA cast manifold (good for RHD VR6), cheap but good turbo would be a PT6262 or the like using the journal bearing flavour (ebay) and take it from there. The cheap budget ones I have the full catalogues if absolutely necessary but they cannot even give me tech specs on the materials used so......... malleable metal at a guess + 90,000rpms on the comp wheel + hitting the comp housing = should have bought decent from the start. If you must do it very budget buy one of the US ebay cheapo kits and an SPA mani for RHD and then build a side engine whilst keeping boost to about half a bar
  8. PT6262 T3 0.82AR - Specify the CEA turbine wheel, PT changed this a while ago, older stock will not have them but newer will. If you got it from Ross-sport off the bay they should have the new stock sent anyway as they do a lot in Evo circles. I will never recommend 440's, far too small. As UM have shown they can support half decent power at high base fuel pressure but when you do this on something like a Walbro 255, the 65-70psi mark is where they start to seriously drop flow rates. The tests about on the net are usually higher voltages too to take into account.in planning. If you're str
  9. Think it's also the fact that VW kinda went the luxo-all-rounder-hatch as opposed to the back road blaster that the earlier Golf's were. The luxury added weight and ruined handling but that's why God created the coilover ;-)
  10. P.S. Twin-scroll T3 is it? On a VR6? That's usually reserved for 4 cylinder, open T3 or divided T4 for the win
  11. As said, just do a half mill overbore so longevity is sustained, that's all you should ever really do and concentrate on denser colder charged air etc instead. But 1mm is usually fine after that pushing the limits of wall thickness especially if forced induction
  12. http://www.stevensvwspares.com/ http://www.audivwparts.co.uk/
  13. 12V? Schrick expensive inlet mani, loads of short runners on ebay, throttle body; if it's none ME7 type cableless then something like a Mustang or get a company like Weber or the like to fab you up two grands worth of ITB's. If it's naturally aspirated though dont bother and save up for forced induction, bhp gain not worth the outlay on NA IMO
  14. No probs, tons of CFD info, it's mainly about calcs though than making the pictures look alright! (Also when you have up to a 1000 logs on each CFD tests it's time consuming to put them together). Lots of inlet and exhaust mani stuff, this was one of the dozens of tests regarding the feeding of the first cylinder in the plenum and the effects on plenum tapers etc RBPE log VRT exhaust mani Look pretty more than anything, in short, you'll be amazed at the differences plenum shapes, runner shapes, pipe circumferences etc all make and any bend radii, and contrary to what anyone tells you, my te
  15. It's called Computational Fluid Dynamics and is used for gasses and liquids and an important part of tuning correctly: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computational_fluid_dynamics There are many variables, not least of all packaging and emissions regs etc and in short, best power is straight in and straight out with no restrictions but obviously that is not always possible. Below is something I acquired over the years of studying it and is a reference model to the change in length of inlet and exhaust pipes (on a diesel engine) and the way in which it changes the torque and power characteristics
  16. Turbo all the way or, as said, go b@lls out! One of these should do you right: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Precision-Turbo-6262-CEA-Turbocharger-PT6262-AKA-850R-/120811338187?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c20eab9cb or: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GTX3582R-Dual-Ball-Bearing-Turbocharger-with-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-/130969005678?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e7e5c6e6e
  17. 2mm will get you between 7.5-9:1 depending on gaskets used, whether you have the head/block skimmed etc, 3mm+ too much is what they are getting at. 0.63ar is too small really for a VR6, 0.82 on a T3 will get you a bar of boost at 3500rpm or so but the 0.63 will get you a torque monster but choke up top and not help with the torque transfer through the 02A. Not bad for 400hp or so though. That intercooler is far too small too, if it's RHD and mk3 get an SPA turbo manifold and std type intercooler, something like this maybe? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-STARLET-EP82-1996-1999-EP91-TURBO-HAT
  18. I e-mailed VW Motorsport about this for more info but unfortunately they didn't get back to me! Might have been the fact I inferred that they were being led by the bean counters and not developing true motorsport engines! Wonder if they took the hint to make sure that it features in the new top of the range Golf VRTT?
  19. Wow, £1100 + taxes (>25%) for that £650 Schimmel kit! My god, some people must have more money than sense!
  20. Knew it would be that one! The car still needs a couple of turbo's imo and a better exhaust, supercars sound too much like lawnmowers nowadays.
  21. Yup, slicks for the win, or R888's if road tyres. Also launch in second gear and feather the throttle up to the end of 2nd, you'll always lose the time here which affects it up top so it's a case of balancing. Also, jack the rear of the car up and have the rear suspension much firmer, maybe swap to solid rear suspension for the strip, this will place more weight on the front for more traction.
  22. Audi A8 ones have been used on 800-900hp cars before, can't quite remember which one, think it was around 2006 model. Make sure you use the grated ones as this provides much better laminar flow and why Bosch changed to them on newer MAF's.
  23. These guys have the same turbo manufacturer as I do but there are a huge range of options we have and they use their own housings by the look of it (I can get 31 variations of KO3 and KO4 turbo compressor including billet but I need to spend about £10k minimum on turbo's - using the demo turbo's at the mo, sorry and my orders are different to theirs so can't really comment on them). http://www.ebay.com/itm/GTX3582R-Dual-Ball-Bearing-Turbocharger-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-/130830293958?hash=item1e7617dbc6&item=130830293958&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr I only use Garr
  24. Meant flow restriction points, sorry (laminar to turbulent).
  25. It's not really a question of power to be honest! A spacer (9.0:1) will see you past 2 bar and 600hp if you do it properly. It's a question of piston speed, so don't go crazy with the rev limit and the VR6 is an undersquare design anyway so 500/500 is quite a good figure to go for with peak torque about the 5252rpm mark (about 1.2/1.3bar on fairly standard engine). It's also a question of pressure, the head lifting is something to take precautions over so why most will say go ARP or Raceware for the studs, much higher tensile strength and in design they have taken into account the extra height
×
×
  • Create New...