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gavinvr6

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Everything posted by gavinvr6

  1. gavinvr6
    bloody hell, talk about wanting to get your times down
  2. gavinvr6
    holy shit, that red one is smooooooooth. the black one must get serious heat soak though. come to think of it the red one dont look to clever either, my guess is trailor tarts. but either way some very nice work gone into em
  3. gavinvr6
    after much deliberation on what tyres sizes to fit to my new wheels santa monica's 7x17 et38 ive opted for 205-40-17 on the rear and 195-40-17 on the front due to the front being a lot lower, problem is i cant find 195-40-17 tyres at a semi respectable price. and a lot of places dont even list them. will 205-40-17 be ok on the front with what ithink is about a 60mm drop
  4. gavinvr6
    right good news is after a good old dollop of paint stripper and a bit of elbow grease the finish of the rims under the laquer is close to mirror anyway, but since the wheels had quite a lot of peel and the previous owner had tried badly to strip one with what looked like an angle grinder, i had to go all out on the first one. once the rot had been scraped out using a wire brush on a drill, i levelled the area using a tight wound flap wheel in 80 grit, then a 120 grit flap drum and a 240 grit flap drum then 480, 800, 1200 dry by hand then 1200 wet by hand, and then a good seing to with some po
  5. gavinvr6
    hey guys im after a few tips. i got some 17" santa monica's. 3 out of 4 are actually not to bad but the 1st was started on by the previous owner and not finished. so im gunna strip em all, ive managed to sand off the laquear on one spoke and gave it a few lighter grades and a final lick of polishing paste to get an idea how it will look but i had to use 80 grit just to get the bloody laquaer off and its leving some nasty scrathes that are proving hard to remove. questions are: 1. whats the best way to strip em reasonably quickly without causing to much work later on. i only want to remove the
  6. gavinvr6
    that merc is the daddy. but not the only one, there was another older stytle merc sports car a few years ago that was in south london with the same finish, i did look into who done it and i think the chrome job worked out about 5 grand iirc, if you do all the prep and only if the prep is perfect lol
  7. gavinvr6
    yes mate there are a couple of vr's round the area. have a meet about once a month depending on peoples availability. then there is also the dubscene meet in southsea on 4th thursday of each month, a nice group of people with some nice cars, and its a 'your car your style' kind of group with no knobby forum bashers or anything like that
  8. gavinvr6
    i got a girl of 11 and a boy of 9, but both live with thier respective mothers and a 6 month old puppy staf with my current partner. that is harder work than both kids put together. the staf that is not the partner. come to think of it she's hard work too lol
  9. gavinvr6
    possibly a bad earth, if engine is hunting it can also be caused by bad earth so possibly the 2 are related. have you had any work done recently to the engine?
  10. gavinvr6
    lol trannie. i bet you did work him hard. he's been walking like john wayne the last couple of years
  11. gavinvr6
    best to check it on level ground in the morning before its started so more of an acurate reading. but even if the engine has been run just leave it 15 mins to let the oil settle then check, makes no difference on the levels between hot or cold, but saying that my car is currently running nose down so i have to actually level the car before checking mine lol
  12. gavinvr6
    i see it and i got 4 words to say bloody brilliant as always
  13. gavinvr6
    who is lucky enough to own a nice clean mk3 vr and a mk4 4mo. both proudly wearing vr6oc members stickers?
  14. gavinvr6
    if the seals have been crushed in anyway then yes its an mot failure, only know this as i had to have foot long repairs to my front seals after some numpty in a garage crushed the seals by lifting the car off the ground by the seals not the chassis rails. a couple of repair peices are reasonably easy to do and actually quite hard to notice unless under the car. i paid £100 for 12" repair to the fronts on both sides, that was cut/remove/fab/weld and seal. you can do it yourself if you can get a mig welder as its quite simple and will take half a day to a day if you take it nice and carefully.
  15. gavinvr6
    i always end up missing these things, my call out shift seems to fall at the same time as all the local meets and all the decent major events lol
  16. gavinvr6
    i wont be at this one, cant make one till the august meet, when hopefully be un-vailing project rat-rod . my cars beyond economical repair in its present state, needs to much paint work that i cant warrant or afford to be spending anymore, so im going ratty on its arse with some matt black paint, few rollers and some cheap painted wheels
  17. gavinvr6
    can i add that i was using an ashley 2 box system and although the fit was terrible and needed modification to get it to stay in place the sound was nice and deep but not to loud and made the car feel much more responsive. secondly i now run a 2.5 inch straight through from cat to back box single box system, and that is extremely loud and totally changes the feel of the car, losing low end torque round town but turning into an animal when it comes into the power band
  18. gavinvr6
    and and the biggest air filter you can squeeze in somewhere for that all important growl lol
  19. gavinvr6
    in that case mate de-cat it with a race pipe and free flow universal back box in the style of your choice and it will make your ears bleed
  20. gavinvr6
    225/55 would be way to big, especially if you have lowered the car mate. go with the 195/45's or 195/45 up front and 205/40 on the rear for the staggered look. speed rating r: max 106mph?? definatly not mate. your gunna want something with over 140mph rating z i think, for those 'track or drag strip' moments. p.s you done with my repair manual yet? lol
  21. gavinvr6
    you can buy one for a 16v mk2 from volkszone i think but i doubt the bore will be big enough, a centre pipe from an exhaust builder should cost about 100-120 quid, but be warned it totally transforms the car. most low down torque is lost yet top end when the power band comes in, it comes in with a bang
  22. gavinvr6
    yah is a straight through from cat to back box. only way to described it really is, good job im deaf lol. it can get a bit tiresome at times or on long journeys and it pops and bangs quite a lot on lift off or just touching the throttle. but the noise it makes when you mash your foot into the carpet is awsome i did do a link to the noise it made on a metube vid. search loudest vr on here and that should bring it up. i dont like calling it a race pipe. blame the old maxpower boy racer in me, its just a case of its shorter and easier than saying straight through middle section and axle loop lol
  23. gavinvr6
    get it on vag com. i've got similar problems and my fault code reader is throwing up isv and hall sendor (cam sensor)
  24. gavinvr6
    ok so mid to high 6's aint to bad then. have gained a potential 3/4 of a second with the mods done. out of curiosity, since vr's love cold weather would chilling the air on a n/a car for maybe 0-60 sprints or 1/4 miles make much of a difference, i know a forced motor loves it, the colder the better, but a standard vr also loves cold weather. ive been looking at these cryo kits that are supposed to work but ive never had any experiance with having to chill the induction airflow and dont wanna waste time and money. im not looking at going forced as i will just crash or lose my license if i boost
  25. gavinvr6
    guys i dunno if it was my borrowed timing equiptment playing up (some old datalogger unit) or if it was me messing up settings but my n/a vr with just minimal mods was consistantly pulling sub 7 second 0-60's at the weekend. 6.57s, (i think that miss-timed) 6.76s, 6.82s, 6.88s, 6.95s oh and one 7.13s its fitted with a custom induction kit, relocating the air filter to the lower bumper grill with alloy tube. 'rado inlet and tb and a cat back 'race pipe' (i hate that term) with an ashley free flow back box. i mean there are no actual power mods there, but once the revs get to 3400rpm it just lau
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