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gavinvr6

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Everything posted by gavinvr6

  1. gavinvr6
    oh i love my car hence why i've spent so much just keeping it on the road, but it's getting old and tired now and funds simply cant permit an overhaul. i can afford to get it through the next mot i hope but after that the future is bleak. if it was a horse it'd be shot for being lame. if i could find another vr for sensible money in good nick during the next year i'll be seriously considering buying it, i've even been lookiing at 4mo's simply so i dont lose the roar and endless torque
  2. gavinvr6
    whore
  3. gavinvr6
    no worries
  4. gavinvr6
    anyone near havant/portsmouth got a set of jump leads or a jump pack or battery starter, cars been standing 3 months now and battery has gone dead
  5. gavinvr6
    the fucking clown (pardon my language but they are best words to describe him) done EVERYTHING up using an air spanner/ratchet thing. it wasnt even an impact gun just an air tool with a socket on the end. i've got one of them allen key in a socket thingy's but cant get a bloody wrench in there as well. im so worried about shearing off the bolt heads you go no idea. i've wrecked 6 wheel bolts, 2 rear lower shock mounting bolts, 1 tps bolt, 1 tb bolt blah blah blah justtrying to fix things as they need replacing, plus i cant remove the top off the front shocks coz he done them up the same way.
  6. gavinvr6
    i've owned my car 4 yrs and spent atleast 3g's just keeping it on the road, that's just bloody daft. and as much as i would love to rebuild it over winter i just couldnt afford to run a daily and fix up the v. mines 17yrs old so is getting to old to warrant keep spending
  7. gavinvr6
    the simple facts of the matter is that vr's just dont cut it any more, smaller modern lighter cars with smaller engines are making similar power to weight figures and this is showing vr's up. im working on getting mine back on the road still but once it's up and running im going to bite the bullet and say goodbye. i know i'll regret it and i know i'll miss it because of the noise and the way it's relentless all the way to the red line but the money i've spent and the money i'll need to keep spending i can buy another car that is newer, more reliable and just as quick. it just wont have that o
  8. gavinvr6
    first things first, take out that bit of pipe that bypass's the aux water pump, you will bugger ya engine, the pump is there to provide flow once the ignition is switched off coz the vr heads run real hot and not allowing em to cool correctly will cause em to warp and blow the head gasket. and then try seperating the large loom connector and checking the pins inside that, if you put it back bent you may of broke one of the connectors, if these dont work you will have to get it on vag-com
  9. gavinvr6
    yeah sorry i did meant inlet bolts, but he also done up every other bolt waaaaaay to tight, and nothing will undo, i had to use an air impact gun for removing lorry wheels just to remove my car wheels. i tried using an allen key and tapping it round with a mallet but it just bent the allen key, also tried a small impact gun but couldnt get it into the gap
  10. gavinvr6
    you jammy dodger, well done to ya, hope she dont cause to much hassle. personally i wouldnt sell it, keep hold for a couple of yrs more then sell it on when the price has gone up a bit, which i think everyone will agree it will
  11. gavinvr6
    ah there is another moral to this story as well if you actually give a snot about getting good mpg buy a prius not a vr
  12. gavinvr6
    see that this morning, the mk5 that went cross country in the first race looked more like a ramp attack than a race course. the rac liveried caddy was brill, they had everything from 'rado's, jetta's 1.8t's r32's and even a herbie styllee beetle 3.2 rsi. made for some really interesting racing seeing how all the different car's perform against each other
  13. gavinvr6
    rado tb dont make a bit of difference on obd1 coil pack engines, i know this as mine is a 93 obd1 coil pack and it has exactly the same tb as a corrado, the maifold will help improve flow but obd1 coil pack and dizzy engines use same tb from the factory not the smaller obd2 version
  14. gavinvr6
    i got a problem with this, the plank that fitted my replacementengine doen everything up extra tight and now i cant undo none of the bolts, any idea's how i can get it off without snapping bolts?
  15. gavinvr6
    ya not making much sense to me mate, you got anu pictures of the bits you changed and the bits not connected to anything. basically sounds like you buggered a connection somewhere. take lots of pics and post em up showing what you replaced what you disconected and all that malarky
  16. gavinvr6
    id like to do the same. but fitting of the leads even correctly is a pain in the nuts on a vr, so please can some one do an idiots guide to hiding the leads, and how do you smooth the lead runners? they look fapping awesome
  17. gavinvr6
    cant remember the make but it was only cheap from u/d a coule of yrs ago. its about an inch wide and 1/2 inch thick flat oval, fitting took about an hour, including trimming off the excess panel gunk on the suspension towers they use when building the car and doing 3 or 4 trial fittings to get the length and location exactly right. if ya pop round one evening next week i can show you. also if your thinking of changing track rod ends and what not, get some anti roll bar drop links, they are only cheap
  18. gavinvr6
    without chucking on vag-com mate you could be picking loads of different potential prob's. most likely is the maf or isv. take both off and clean, taking care to be very very carefull with the maf, spray clean it with contact cleaner do not attempt to rub the wires with anything, also try cleaning the isv with a similar product then take it for a spin and see how oit goes, if that dont work get it on vag com
  19. gavinvr6
    they will stiffen up ok, the front of mine is nice and tight and really good feed back through the steering but not to stiff that it bangs and crash's about. but i've added a nice thick strut bar at the front too and that completely changed the way the car cornered
  20. gavinvr6
    carefull you dont go too far down on the rear's mate, i had hottunning ones and the rears were rock solid, im talking bone shakingly hard, try to drop the rear but just 40mm, the fronts however can be run so the springs are just captured by the locking rings and will give you 60+ drop
  21. gavinvr6
    gunna go gsf when i get time for oil and filters, also get some spark plugs from bordon since they are denso's but only cheap. if i can get a pre mot done by end of next week i'll be ok
  22. gavinvr6
    im gunna try doing a bit on bank holiday monday as thats my next day off. if cant get it all done then, will be doing evenings next week as need my v back man. here's a list of what i know is wrong: 1. zorst is in peices and none of it wants to fit or line up again. 2. stalling 3. cam sensor showing faulty 4. isv showing faulty (both been changed) 5. engine speed sensor now showing faulty 6. headlight bulb not secured in headlight 7. rear brakes binding 8. sunroof and drivers rear window not working (neither mot failures so not important yet). rear brakes are my main problem as thats why i sto
  23. gavinvr6
    yeah but my car is a k plate that i paid 1300 for and have spent 3.5k in last 4 yrs just keeping it running lol, although 1500 quid of that was for a replacement engine i didnt need thanks to a lieing theiving german performance car wanna be garage,, im just sick of throwing money at it for it to break something else next time i use it lol, will be doing a bit of work to it and try out for an mot but im no mechanic so any work i do is pure bodge job lol. if it needs more than a couple of hundred quid to fix then its getting pulled apart and sold as a mk2 conversion to one of the local chav's
  24. gavinvr6
    guys i want to put my car back on the road after the mot lapsed back at the end of jan. but i got a ferw problems, the zorst is a mish-mash and blows better than a 10 buck hooker and the car is still stalling after fitting re-placement isv and cam sensor. the fault code reader im using is still saying isv and cam sensor fault, also saying engine speed sensor, where is this one located? also is anyone located near pompey who is handy with a set of spanners to come give the old girl the once over for me pls, i've got to the point now where im so fed up spending money on the car that i've even st
  25. gavinvr6
    call hillsea tyres mate, it'll cost ya about 20-30 quid to fit ya tyres and balance em, i got 2x 195-45-15 toyo proxy's for my fronts 60 quid the pair fitted and balanced, but you'llhave to check if they got stick on weights, i just let em use smash ons coz my rims are shagged
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