Nah, you want the 6 branch hot, but not radiating to the bay so just heat wrap is spot on. Cold air feed isn't worth the effort, it gains nothing on N/A really, even with a BMC it just changes the noise abit
With all the salt and snow, ive seen alot of posts around t'interweb about swapping to winter wheels or trying to protect them. Ive tried loads of different combinations and the latest one seems to be pretty hardwearing, so this may be helpful to quite a few on here First job is to get the wheels clean and free of tar spots and dirt, repolish if you want to, basically getting the wheels back to how you are happy with them. Next, when they are ready, get yourself so of the cotton stockinette cloth from Halfords and a bottle of this http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%
Thought Id update this as im stuck in doors with flu, +o( Been gathering parts when theyve come up at a good price recently Hotchkis RS4 ARBs, very light as they are hollow (!!!) but stiffen the RS4 up 300%, comes with huge new mounts and poly-bushes with zerk fittings, rear is adjustable from 'balanced' to 'agressive', which from reviews ive read means a touch of oversteer. Did loads of research on ARBs before settling for these and these were referred to as 'the bollox' everywhere so I needed them!! haha, they will be on the softer setting though as on the harder setting it puts a hell of a
It's either the voltage reg or the LED, the voltage reg can be got from maplin, if it's the LED they're scrap as you can't replace them. Just out if curiousity post the eBay link mate
Sounds like what a mate of mine had back along, it was a huge air lock that just wouldn't shift. Put heaters on full, blowing up the screen and leave the engine to heat up with the water bottle cap off. When hot keep squeezing the pipes that you can see going through the bulk head and to the rad. It took a while but when I cleared it farted at us and swallowed the contents of the reservoir. Is the coolant in the correct mix aswel?
Beck Veir, impulse buy new trainers, Pizza Hut, Call of duty, tv/DVDs, sleep, pizza for breakfast, swap my failed coil pack, wash car if weather is ok, go for a drive, grans 80th bday meal, new series of top gear, family guy and American dad, sleep.
Hate these cars, all that technology and power but unusable due to warranty implications and electronic governing. I'd rather have a 2nd hand lambo or 911 any day!!
If you shop around you could get all the gear for around £100 oil £25ish plugs £3 each filter £10 then something like dubpower leads and clean the hall sensor with alcohol and a cotton bud just fresh oil can make a big difference, if you have old plugs and leads, replacing then can help bottom end, but VRs aren't brilliant below 3500rpm anyway. It's also said a gunged up hall sensor could rob upto 30bhp!! Also worth a quick fault code scan aswell because something a simple as a faulty £8 coolant temp sensor can cause fuelling issues and balls up the performance
He's been saving money by selling the kits with non high-tensile steel bolts by the look of it, if they haven't got a grade number on the heads they are diffinatly suss plus, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't zinc used as an anti corrosion measure on steel all the time and would never weaken steel that fast from a light misting of aerosol
Email VF direct, I spoke to a bloke called Gary when I was needing stuff, very helpful. It's basically hexagon shaped block with a male lug on the bottom that screws into the filter housing a male? port on the top that the oil feed goes into and on the side a port that the oil temp sensor fits in If your really stuck, buy a new oil temp sensor and take it, along with the oil feed pipe to a machine shop and match it up and get one made top connection(male?) needs threading to take the oil feed line bottom connection(male) needs threading the the same thread as the oil temp sensor side connecti