FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Why was the branding ground off my two manifolds then? Why would someone do that, let alone copy it? Why can't anyone decisively answer that? It's all well and good you piping up on here when ever SPA or C2 are mentioned with your "I'm alright Jack, must be you" attitude, but no one has an answer for that and until I get one, it will remain to be suspicious in my mind. You know nothing about my C2 software situation. If I didn't have it running in such a state to gather EGT information, I wouldn't have mentioned it. So what are your EGTs for comparison then? Are you one of these peopl
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I wonder what's different about your manifolds then? EGTs are the same as I saw with C2's software:- ~ 750 at a 90-95 mph cruise. ~ 850-900 at wide open throttle. I would expect a purpose made manifold to handle those EGTs. If EGTs were consistently too high over 25K, I'd expect to see other related issues, such as burnt out exhaust valves, detonation, etc etc. It never pinks and I run it slightly rich on cruise, around 14.5AF, Timing is slightly higher than stock VR6 off boost. Therefore I can only conclude the manifold was at fault, especially as it cracked in exactly the same place, twice
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In simple terms:- Mass Air based fuelling (OE ECU) - Recirc Manifold pressure fuelling (Standalone) - Blow off valve. Or, if you don't like blow off noises, you can use a recirc on both applications. I can do you a nice 50mm Forge recirc valve if you want? Much better than the little 007P :-)
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To be fair, I'm one of handful of people who uses their VRTs daily. Daily used cars always reveal weaknesses far sooner than weekend / monthly cars. I've done 25K in 2 years with mine and the SPA manifold is the only component that has broken through general use.....twice. I'm not an idiot and will accept responsibilty where it's due, but a simple cast iron lump, which can only be fitted one way (i.e. the correct way) cannot crack and misalign because of user error. It's not just the SPA though. I've rejected two ATP manifolds for the same reason. They drilled the flange holes in the w
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I would be requesting picture evidence of perfectly aligned VW gaskets on the SPA flange before parting with any money.
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Yeah the MK5 R32 engine is identical to the MK4 lump (pretty mechanically at least) so the same applies...
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Are you using the gear dependant boost limitation, or throttle / rpm based? I've had an Apexi for months, but haven't yet got round to wiring it up. Looks a bit complicated!
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VW use that expensive Castrol SLX 5/30W in MK5 R32s, even for running in. Might be a bit thin for your application with forged pistons though. I'd perhaps try Silkolene Pro S 5/40W and see what oil consumption is like. Run a thicker oil if it drinks a lot :-) You should find the oil consumption reduces with mileage. Silkolene or Castrol Edge, you can't go wrong. Both are Ester based, which is currently the best synthetic base.
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I used the VW quantum 10/40W to run mine in, then immediately switched to Silkolene Pro S 10W/50 full synth at 2500 miles. If you're running forged pistons, I would recommend the 10W/50 silkolene or Castrol Edge Sport 10W/60. Both excellent oils for high tolerance bore clearances and high rpms. If you're using cast pistons, then Silkolene 5/40 is what I'd go with. They're tighter in the bores. Forged's use more oil, something to be aware of. Having said that, my Wossner block + Schimmel head uses barely anything for such high performance, roughly the same as a very healthy stock VR. My ol
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The GT3071R was the first turbo I had on mine. Good choice, really nice turbo :-) What size hot side did you go with?
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Sounds like a good start. Stick it on and see what you think.
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Bosch F5DPOR? The weird side fire ones? Use them in my VRT and they're good plugs, not cheap though.
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I'll bet! Traction is bad enough with a 3.68 diff! do you get any more vibration from a light flywheel? I can't imagine you would but some folk reckon the flywheel's mass is partly to absorb conrod harmonics?
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I don't dispute that and I'm looking forward to trying my new flywheel - when I can be bothered to fit it! The kind of launches I'm referring to are in track cars with very tall 1st gears, such as the black Ventor Bill Schimmel built. He told me he gets much better launches with the stock flywheel, but prefers the light one for road use.
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Yeah but your car does such little mileage though! I need feedback from people that run light flywheels on a daily basis in all the usual traffic scenarios :-)
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If you're into full bore 1/4 mile launches, the spinning mass of the stock wheel helps get the car off line smoother.....less tendency to bog down. I would say the 6lb Fidanza is a tad too light imo, but I've ordered a 9lb cromoly steel flywheel and I'll report my findings.
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It must depend on how light the flywheel is then. I was thinking of the one Bill Schimmel uses, he really rates it - http://www.spturboparts.com/aftermarket/ViewDetails.aspx?prod=16024 Cromoly aswell.....so should last well with the uprated clutches we're starting to use these days.
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Interesting..... think I'll try one when I install my gearset. I take it the main differences are pulling away in 1st and 2nd and a faster drop in engine speed between gear changes?
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You won't need new cams , but tappets are £80+VAT from Stealth Racing. If you want to uprate the cams, there's a group buy on Schimmel 263 cams on www.the-corrado.net
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Schimmel 263 cams CentreForce or Helix clutch
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Read the posts! He can't use the ATP because he wants to run the stock manifold :-)
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Catch tanks are a waste of time IMO. They are a legal requirement for racing cars to prevent oil spilling on the track, but on a road car you don't need one. Just run a length of hose down to the steering rack. Job's a good un. If your engine is filling up the catch tank anyway, you have more serious issues to worry about!
