FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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They are cheap anyway considering Schrick 268s are nearly £600. 268s can be used no problem on forced induction, just so long as the overlap isn't too crazy.
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I've got a set of Delphi 440s surplus to requirements. Brand new and better than the Bosch green tops, which are now obsolete anyway.
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Yeah you will need an angled pipe. This is the kind of shape you're looking for - http://www.techtonicstuning.com/showpart.asp?partnum=252.331 Bear in mind the suitcase does most of the silencing, so it might be a wee bit louder :-) You'll save a shed load of weight though!
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With the BMC CDA being the only modification on an otherwise standard Golf VR6, I've seen a dyno confirmed 7hp gain. I'm normally sceptical of clip on mods like air filters and exhausts, but the BMC does actually seem to work and really does make the motor feel livlier. Schimmel's 263 cams have shown good results on the dyno too.
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Indeed. Like crimping the end of a garden hose with your thumb....it restricts the flow.
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The ECU signal feed is the rpm wire - thin green with black tracer. The Schrick isn't like the R32 manifold which switches between long and short runners, but rather switches between 1 bank of 6 or 2 banks of 3. It's just one big flap in the middle where the plastic actuator valve is.
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I would want a coolant system pressure sensor if I was running standard headbolts! Standards are OK with low boost, 6-8psi. Any mroe and ARPs are a must.
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My memory isn't that good, LOL!
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70mm bore, now that's a good compromise :-) Are the S3 rubbers those orange synthetic looking ones?
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3" isn't essential. A good 2.5" system with single silencer and 2 resonators won't cost you much power, if anything. The downpipe is the important bit with turbos, the bigger the better. Bore diameter should be 1.5 x turbine wheel diameter, but 3" is enough for most installs. The trick with the over axle bit is to mount it so that the pipe is about 5-10mm off the boot floor, then there should be about 2" clearance for the axle, but if you're lowered, that clearance reduces. Wrap some rubber around the axle, LOL! It still clonks, but not as harshly or loudly.
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More like 20 - 25%
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See the "DIY Turbo guide" ;-) There's some pics in there, but basically you just buy a remote resevoir from Rallydesign or Merlin Motorsport, Demon tweeks etc and make a bracket for it over by the expanstion tank. I just used an old alarm bracket! Then run some hose over to the master cylinder and that's pretty much it tbh.
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Thanks mate! Don't worry about not understanding it, I didn't at first either but you soon get the hang! I work in IT :-)
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Looks like a rip off this one to me - http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-177&Category_Code=AUDIVW-DP I looked at using that setup but it will foul the steering rack / steering UJ etc and the boost path is awkward. Moving the brake resevoir is a piece of p1ss.
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Polo electric heater
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We've seen a few standard Corrado VR6s kick out over 20hp from Schimmel's 263 cams and a remap. 268s per se aren't bad for forced induction, it depends on the overlap. 268s tend to have a fair bit of overlap but that can actually help spool up. Providing the profiles aren't ridiculous and allow unburned boost to blow out of the exhaust valves, you can use what ever cams you like.
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Yeah defo needs to be connected!
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Strictly dubs import Schimmel stuff and could probably get the DRC 264s for you....
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2.5" is fine. I know of a Rotrex'd VR making 430hp with the same 2.5" exhaust I use. 3" is nice for a turbo, but even then, not essential. 3" saps torque away off boost.
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I had the GT3071R on mine originally and it's a very nice turbo. I would recommend a T3 inlet and 3" V Band outlet. All you need to know is it spools quick and kicks arse. The one part that makes the biggest different on VRT's is the turbo, so you really shouldn't skimp on that.
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These are what you want :-) http://www.driveshaftshop.com/pdetail.php?pid=199 How are you finding the gearing? I hear the O2M is very short in MK3 Golfs etc. If it is too short, a good time to fit a taller final drive would be when you do the ATB :-)
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That IHI is normally used on a 1.8T, it's far too small for a VR6. It'll just choke to death at the top end. That ebay turbo is a chinese copy. Might last 10 years, might last 10 minutes, but is the minimum size you should consider imo.
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Thanks guys! I tried the cheap parts and they kept letting me down, so this time round I took no chances and it's all working nicely
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I would. I was right impressed with Bill Schimmel's work on my head. Think there's a picture of it in the DIY turbo thread. He sent me over a new head, so I didn't have to ship an old one over, which was handy. Nope, no cams. I already had the 263s anyway, but they're not hideous money on their own. There's no way I could get that spec head done in this country for less than 1500 pounds, let alone dollars! Say I referred you and he might look after you ;-) Head weighs 50lbs IIRC, so postage is quite dear, about $200.
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I don't know tbh, they came with the head Schimmel Performance built for me :-) The whole head was $1350 (bought when the dollar was 2 to a pound) fully built with HD springs, titanium retainers and caps, gasket matched intake ports, 3 angle valve job, stem reduction etc etc. Was a real nice job and really made the engine come alive.
