FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Crank scraper and billet steel main caps for vr6. Opinions please :)
FishWick replied to sacvwgolf's topic in Engine Tuning
Cool, let me know what they come back with as I got round to speaking to them. Yep, should be available from the dealer but you can bet the HPA ones, imported, are cheaper than Audi ones, LOL! I will try and find out and let you know.... -
Hey Kong No it's a Corrado specific VR6 A/C radiator and the cross member panel has mountings for it in front of the main engine radiator. It's a very tight fit, even as a factory install. Only a few mm clearance between the two radiators and the slam panel. The water channels in the AC rad I've got are roughly the same size as the ones in the Setrab cooler Schimmel sells with his Air - water setup, but the inlet and out hoses are smaller. But the main benefit will be keeping intake temps cool in traffic because it will get cooled by the fans.
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Stealth normally sell the G60 final drive for £50 if they have any s/hand ones in, but if not, it's the VW price of £220 as Pete says. A guy called "Hot Golf" on ClubGTI also rebuilds gearboxes and may have a few spare. There's no trouble using a s/hand final drive, it's very strong and suffers very little wear, so fine to use. My s/hand G60 final drive has done 40K with double the torque VW intended and it's still going strong :-) Economy - I never worked it out fully when naturallty aspirated but it was only like a 2mpg drop at worst, but consider this, if my VRT averages 27.7mpg with
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Crank scraper and billet steel main caps for vr6. Opinions please :)
FishWick replied to sacvwgolf's topic in Engine Tuning
Future :-) Futura sounds like some flashy concept car :-) I have it on good authority those bearings are actually standard RS4 ones but I'm not sure if they are RS4 as in 4.2 V8, or RS4 as in the old 2.78 Biturbo engine! Need to find out and come back to you but they are supposed to be very strong. When I say unusable, it's mainly just in the wet. Providing you have good tyres, a diff and good suspension geometry, it's not bad in the dry. Just have to put up with loads of torque steer :-) -
Crank scraper and billet steel main caps for vr6. Opinions please :)
FishWick replied to sacvwgolf's topic in Engine Tuning
I whole heartedly support and recommend over engineering and those billet caps look nice and nicely priced too. You might want to consider these rod bearings too - http://www.hpamotorsports.com/bearings.htm I would add that if you're going Supercharger, you don't need to go quite as military with the strengthening due to the way the boost is delivered. Turbos definitely need all this, although many people run around with nothing more than spacer plates and do OK. But with forced induction VR6s, it's not a caseof if it will break, but WHEN it will break, and that goes for both methods :-) -
Abso friggin lutely! Forget the cams, chips, exhausts, filters..... with the exception a few parts, these all delivery very minimal gains. The best thing you can do to a normally aspirated VR6 imo is lower the gearing :-). It's way too tall as standard imo and just exacerbates the VR6's inherent lack of bottom end torque. Especially sat on the motorway in 5th at 70mph. Get some cheif up your rump and there's just nothing there when you floor it. A drop to 4th required, which gets tedious after a while, may aswell buy a VTEC! A close stack 6 speed, or just a shorter final drive with
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I personally wouldn't put it down there unless absolutely necessary, such as when you use an S/C for example. I don't know about other people but mine is a daily and has to go through deep standing water occasionally, and I have had MAF problems from that. Never sucked water into the engine though. You need to drive through a major Ford for that to happen! In terms of a normal aspirated engine, I've done a fair bit of experimentation with filters and intake tract lengths and I don't like how the engine feels with a great bit long pipe like that. Feels slower in the midrange to me. Th
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That's a fair while then, good stuff. Yep, expensive and hassle, but worth it in the long run. I have no interest in cars that don't keep me occupied and have no tuning potential. Yeah I considered that too regarding the AC rad being restrictive, but I managed to score a brand new rad from VW for £75, so rude not to try it. I think it will do a reasonable job. I would really like details of your Cinquicento rad though, in case the AC one doesn't work out! I have a little display on the dash that tells me everything the ECU is reading and controlling which is very handy. Saves having
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Compressor wheel and induder refer to the same wheel, so that one has an 82mm exducer with 56mm inducer. T3 is a common flange type, most people go with that. Without the turbine wheel diameter, it's difficult to match it to a Garret but the GT35R also has an 82mm exducer, but a larger 61mm inducer. The inducer part of the compressor wheel is what pulls air into the turbo. The Exducer then compresses it. The turbine wheel only has one role and will be quoted with a single diameter. What model of Holset is it? I can probably find out some info on it. It's the Borg Warner turbos that are ta
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They should never be completely dry. The filter element should be red but may not be wet enough to feel on your fingers. If the element looks black and dirty, it needs a clean. BMC recommend a clean or "recharge" as they call it every 15,000km. http://www.bmcairfilters.com/faq.asp#faq51 Undo the screws at the inlet end and pop out the filter element. You'll soon notice it's just a K&N 57i wrapped around a red plastric funnel and you'll think, £200 for that??! LOL! :-) Seriously though, wash and oil it in the same way you would a normal K&N panel filter.
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I've yet to see any filter come with a reoiling kit! For K&Ns you need the "Recharge kit" which is a can of oil and a bottle of cleaner (soap basically!) but it's not included with a filter. I'd use the same kit with BMCs. Filters come "ready oiled" though and I would have thought the BMC's red cotton colour would kind of hint at it being oiled :-) These kind of filters don't work if not oiled. They let too much fine grit into the engine.
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You won't notice anything. It may benefit a very high revving and hot running NA motor slightly. Save it for the turbo engine :-)
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I've never really looked at cyro kits in any detail. I did see a CO2 based system a long time ago but it was only a ahort term boost like Nitrous and needed refilling regularly. I think the simplest and longest lasting solution is still an intercooler (water or air) with methanol injection. Neat meth that is, no water.
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You guys should use a proper MAF - http://www.promracing.com/mass-air-meters-c-2/pro80-p-5
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Erm, the BMC does need oiling as do all cotton guaze filters (except the nasty green things). The filter should be removed from it's carbon casing and cleaned in the normal manner, the reoiled. I recommend K&N spray oil to get a more even coating.
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Nice! How long has your VR been turboed mate? I take it the IC was external and easily visible then? Mine's been a daily VRT for 2.5 years with a discrete chargecooler and it's been great. Water is brilliant for absorbing heat and I get very stable and low intake temps. I'd say if your 20 Litres is getting hot, it's definitely a radiator issue. Mine is 20" x 1" x 6" and the water in the tank (boot mounted) is always cool. I'm also going to use a VR Air con radiator as an additional radiator when I get round to it, which should be awesome! Keep us posted!
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Yep, Ice and other cryo related techiques is the only way to get lower than ambient intake temps, but it's all extra bulk. Turbo engines don't start feeling slower until intake temps exceed 45-50 deg C. Anything below 40 will feel crisp.
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Yeah that is the best way to do it to ensure a balanced airflow across all cylinders.
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I've seen quite a few home made short runners made with the lower runners and a 3" bore ally tube welded on
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Neither, just a spring in the Wastegate :-) I like the simple approach, LOL!
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I've got a brand new, unused AVCR (latest spec with black display) surplus to requirements. £270. You won't find cheaper :-)
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LOL, cheers for the endorsement Jim :-) They are good injectors though!
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The boost would completely overwhelm it to the point of being useless. Remember A/C only has to deal with summer temperatures, 26-32 in this country. The air coming out of a turbo can be as hot as 100 deg C and the A/C wouldn't cope with that.....or you could build it to cope, but the load the A/C compressor would put on the engine would cancel out the gains :-) You're thinking along the right lines though because you can use the VR6's A/C radiator (which is big!) as a prerad for a chargecooler system ;-)
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Have you got a blocked injector then? The engine ECU doesn't know any different mate, it will still squirt fuel into a misfiring cylinder unless there is a mechanical fault stopping fuel getting in. And on that basis, I wouldn't drive it, well, no more than a 10-20 miles anyway.
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All VAG 4 cylinder turbos are puny and Waaaaay too small for a VR6, plus the variable vane info Jim mentioned.....it won't work. And not only that, Diesel runs a LOT cooler than petrol and Diesel turbos aren't built to handle the heat.
