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mightyvr6

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Everything posted by mightyvr6

  1. Late vr6s (Golfs) should have 288mm brakes with banjo fittings.
  2. Love it! Are you watching Saxondale?
  3. I agree with you. I don't think the mafless remap is quite what it's cracked up to be. Mine ran a lot better with the maf in place and now I think it's a bad move to run without the maf. The power was fine but all the smoothness was taken away and the economy was quite frankly rubbish. Definitely needs some fine tuning. If you spend that kind of money you expect it to be absolutely spot on.
  4. Wonder why, jealous?? I'm not bothered as I've sold me s/c setup but I'm sure others would like to know. You still haven't provided any proper information/details. You say its not b*llshit but where's the evidence? How about some dyno plots?
  5. You could extend the maf loom and reposition the maf just throught the carbon canister hole so it's out of view.
  6. It's the upper tensioner and tensioner bolt which were updated. These might only be available from VW but are actually cheaper than the original ones. I can find a part number if you like? The guides haven't been redesigned. Yes you can install these on an obd1. If you get the gasket from GSF Or Eurocarparts make sure the head gasket is made by victor reinze. The other gaskets are not so important.
  7. Yeah all vr6 heads are the same. It came off a 96 corrado storm with 70k miles. I can send you pics if required. thanks.
  8. The parts are quite cheap. I reckon it should cost no more than £400. Ask Killokilla off the forum for a price before you try anyone else.
  9. I've got a head I'm selling which is in good nick. I'm asking £100 + postage.
  10. Have a word with Killokilla off the forum. His contact details are here: www.stokevwspares.co.uk He'll sort you out no probs and won't rip you off like some of these other firms.
  11. Oil vapour is supposed to come form the breather but the charger will make it breath more heavily. Run a pipe from the cc breather to the back of the engine bay, directing it throught the pas rack to the floor. That should sort it.
  12. If you want a charger go direct to NS Racing as they are the importer. These other companies buy off NS then add their own mark up.
  13. No way is it £4k. The group buy price for the stage 1 is £1850 + fitting and mapping = about £2500
  14. Don't buy that one as it spins the wrong way. If you buy a vortech v1 or v2 all the bits can be bought separately.
  15. 1.Should run as well. Have you checked for boost leaks? Is the maf and wiring ok? Speaking from personal experience, the power was equally good with the maf before and after, but as you say the driveability was much better with it before. 2.You have to buy a t-piece (which goes in the position where the maf used to be) and a hose which goes back into the charger intake.You can take the vac feed off the brake booster or t-off the fuel pressure regulator.
  16. I see you didn't go for the updated solid polymer upper tensioner and spring loaded plunger bolt.
  17. You could get some siemens deka injectors if you can't get bosch.
  18. The oil temp will get hot sepecially in a country like Greece where the ambient temperature is high. Vr6s do run hot and if this worries you, fit an extra oil cooler. Other good mods to reduce temperature are a low temperature fan switch, low temp thermostat and adding watter wetter in the coolant system. I'm pretty sure the kr pump should provide enough pressure (probably too much pressure) If you want to change the pump you can use one off a mark 2 golf gti 8v or fit the complete tank and pump assembly from a mark 3 golf vr6. When you say "speed sensor" do you mean the sensor which operates
  19. I used NGKBKR6E or Bosch F6DTC (off mark 2 golf 16v) which both worked ok.
  20. If you remove the airbox, it will give you better access.
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