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mightyvr6

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Everything posted by mightyvr6

  1. Release the tension in the belt and have a spin of the various pulleys. If they wobble or feel a bit rough, the bearings might be worn. Could well be the aux belt tensioner as the bearings tend to run dry over time and eventually seize up. There is a cheap fix as a new bearing can be bought for less than a fiver.
  2. I think minty who used to come on the forum had 264s with an s/c. I think the guy who bought his car posts on here too but can't remember his username.
  3. Just have a look at the injectors (you can see the inj. for no.2 cylinder if you look at the front left of the inlet manifold) If it has a brown top its a standard injector.
  4. The kit you have should come with redtops surely? 8-10 psi uses redtops then 10 psi+ uses greentop injectors.
  5. I've got redtops with the part no. (284) 0 280 150 945
  6. Just buy some 288 calipers and carriers off ebay. I picked up some 288 calipers, carriers, pads, hoses and disks for £45. The 288s just bolt straight on but the hoses are different than 280 hoses as they have a banjo fitting on the caliper end.
  7. I bought some off vwvortex for $150. They cost about $250 from C2motorsports. Not sure who sells them in the UK.
  8. If you can make it down the a50 towards Stoke I can do a diagnostics check as I've got vag-com on a laptop.
  9. might be a problem with a flap or the bowden cable.
  10. Yeah you have to remove the gearbox as the cover plates which cover the chains can't be removed with the 'box in situe. Can't imagine an auto being any more difficult but that's just a guess.
  11. Should be ok to run the car with it disconnected (have you pulled the connector off to see how it runs?)as the other sensors such as the tps take over. I'm pretty sure disconnecting the battery for 15 mins resets the ecu. New maf should smooth things out.
  12. No the engine doesn't have to come out on any vr6 equipped car, just the gearbox.
  13. Geastb, what size pulley have you got? Edit: I think you have got a 2.87 (10 psi pulley) so you should be making some really good power 290 bhp+ Is the engine stock compression? Sounds like you do have a problem if your only making 6 psi.
  14. That's incorrect. All obd1 cars from late 93 onwards were fitted with coilpacks. So a 94 car should be a coilpack.
  15. Have you asked this guy? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Hammond
  16. mightyvr6

    clutch

    Yes, had a luk clutch and it constantly juddered and vr6pete had one which melted. Luk are definitely not as good as Sachs.The genuine vw clutch is Sachs too.
  17. mightyvr6

    clutch

    Luk are crap. Go with Sachs or genuine vw.
  18. Thanks for the info but the thread is about rebuilding centrifugal superchargers rather than G-laders.
  19. Had mine mapped by the Vincemeister. Was running ok but have a few small isuues to iron out, not neccessarily realted to the map. According to my info he's got some map sensors in the pipeline which will help compensate for removing the maf.
  20. apd , If you can't get them from NS, you can buy them for $40 from the link I posted above.
  21. Yes, NS Racing are Vortech dealers so they should know who can do rebuilds. The rebuild parts can be bought here: http://www.superchargerrebuilds.com/listings.htm
  22. Surely you should use electrical contact cleaner if you want to clean the element?
  23. Don't know anyone in the UK who does or can do s/c rebuilds but I know where you can buy rebuild kits (bearings and seals) I'm interested too. Is it a job you can do yourself or do you need special tools? From what I've read the only people who can do the rebuilds are the manufacturers but there must be firms out there who have the knowledge/skill/tools as superchargers are definitely not complicated things. Maybe someone who reconditions turbos could do it as they are not entirely dissimilar.
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