acf8181
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Everything posted by acf8181
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just get them to check the fault codes whilst you wait....they'll charge you £35 prob, but make sure what they do is delete all the fault codes, then take it for a drive (and make sure it misfires), then check them again (with engine running or it throws upa code).
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its the balance weight....it helps the car into gear. and yes, o2a boxes are nasty....even good condition ones.
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from what i've read strut braces are supposed to do bugger all on mkIII's as its quite a still chassis as it is. same with mkII's, but mkI golfs really gain from having one as they're front end is quite flimsy apparantely. i have a bilstein sprintline kit, powerflex bushes, and cutom camber/tracking settings on my vr6 and it handles really really well....rides too harsh though.
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first off, don't trust anyone at vw...they often don't know what they're talkin about. was it the same guy who checked the codes as it was who said it doesn't have a hall sender? or, as i'm suspecting, was it a mechanic who did the codes, and then you asked in parts for the hall sender? if its the latter, the reason he thought it didn't exist is cause its called the impulse sender on their system. were the codes checked with the engine off? this would explain the engine speed sensor fault code...as it wont have a reading cause the engine ain't turning. the best way to check fault codes is to r
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i got mine for £40 new (its the mkIV ones that are £60 pete ) its a must-have thats for sure.
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VW Golf VR6 4Motion Clocks - into MK3 VR6 Dash
acf8181 replied to Devilfish's topic in I.C.E, Security an Electrical
but aren't mkIV clocks a completely different shape? they're all curvy....where as mkII and mkIII are all angular. -
we had AOL dial up originally...utter crap. then went from freeserve (as wanadoo was previously known) dial up, to broadband 512k a while ago. they're upgrading us to 1mb this week, for free.
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if you do the crime (or get caught ) do the time. deal with it.
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not sure on that...certainly some audi's and mkIV golfs...there is a thread about it somewhere if you wanna search for it.
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wanadoo has been very good to me. and on the original subject, i'd get a dell.
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just re-read your first post....it was misfiring on the old leads as well? if so, that eliminates it being leads (or means its quite unlikely....both sets could be dodgy (i have known someone buy new fancy leads and one be defective) but it would be a one in a million thing) next thing i'd do is get the fault codes checked. could be coilpack (this would not throw up a fault code), but it could also be a number of other things. coilpack is an expensive thing to replace on a whim. a lot of people reckon its really common for coilpacks to fail, but from my reseacrh i've found very very few cases
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all obd2 golfs have a built immobiliser anyone AFAIK, with a chip in the key. if you use another aftermarket 'virtual' key immob as well it can cause starting probs as it screws with the factory one (lot of polo's had this prob on the polo forum).
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not sure, but worth a call to them....use yell.com to get their number. i strongly recommend uniroyal rallye 540's over the toyos as well....will last longer as well.
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engine fully warm (oil temp at least 80 deg C/176 deg F), @2000rpm at least 2.0bar (29psi), at higher engine speeds 7.0bar (101psi) ...these are straight from the bentley manual by the way.
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well, if i'm correct the oi lpump runs off the intermediate pulley which is on the timing chain....so can't possibly be related to the alternator (or so my logic tells me). whats the oil level like?
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i think.... calipers (tho you can use 288 calipers), carriers, some spacers made up, flexi hoses (may be same as 288mm ones tho), pads, discs.
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on a new engine - 145-189psi (10-13 bar) wear limit - 109psi (7.5 bar) max difference between cylinders - 44 psi (3 bar) [ Edited Thu Feb 03 2005, 08:30PM ]
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no i don't think thats so good....my mate pays £30 a tyre for his 205/45/15 toyo's. try bracknell tyre and battery centre. i got my uniroyals for about £55 each i think. [ Edited Fri Feb 04 2005, 10:22AM ]
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with the rear speaker one pos and one earth is the feed from the headunit, and the other pos and neg go up to the tweeter. if you've got coaxials prob best to disconnect the tweeter or it'll be a bit treble heavy. the front should only have one pos and one neg going into it...mine did (presuming you're talking about the door speaker. the tweeter has two of each going in, one pos and one neg from h/u, the other pos and neg go to door speaker.
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are the leads deffo on properly? when were your spark plugs replaced last? try spraying water lightly over the coilpack at night and see if theres any sparks (try this on the leads as well).
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i find the EDL makes a lot of difference on decent tyres...but on poor tyres its barely noticeable.
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grip depends on the tyres....with a good set of tyres (such as uniroyals) they have very very good traction. with poor tyres it makes it feel like the car has poor traction. worth noting that vr6's are equipt with EDL (electronic dif lock), a kind of primitive traction control. once a susp kit is fitted they have very good lateral grip, but on standard susp it's not the best...mainly due to poor body roll control. [ Edited Wed Feb 02 2005, 10:09AM ]
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this site may be of help - http://gear.viper007bond.com/downloads.php
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well, mine has them...isn't yours a highline anyway? will do if so.