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Everything posted by c00k
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Then I bought another one of these, so I now have 2. I'm going to re-build them and use the best from both. All new bearings, seals and new high tensile nuts and bolt.
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Got all the air ride linked back up with the braided hoses and hit a few local meets.
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my mk2 vr6 supercharged show car to track toy (PIC HEAVY)
c00k replied to johan238's topic in Members Rides and Event Photos
Coming along nicely buddy! Can't wait to get my charger fitted soon -
Looks nice and clean buddy. Reminds me of mine when I 1st got it
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I've done all my switches. You can make it abit simpler, You do not need the resistor if you buy 12v stable 3mm LEDs. All the resistor does is drop the voltage, so you can use either 3v or 5v LEDs. Buy 12v LEDs there abit harder to find, but they are for sale. And the resistor is not needed at all. Then it is just a direct swap for the original leds then.
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http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1263-heat-resistant-adhesive.aspx I have use this while trimming my boot and to re stick my head lining, all stayed glued 2 years later and doesn't seem to budge. You can either spray it with a compressor and spray gun, or try and apply it very even with a brush, it quite hard to do with a brush, as it an adhesive not paint, so it all sticks together while trying to spread it out. Spray gun is much better. Also put it on both surfaces. The back of the material and the surface your sticking the material too. Apply it then leave for 5-10 mins until it has gone t
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Thats going to be one nice engine when it all built back up dude!
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Wheels looks brilliant mate, Suit the car nicely
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Braided line and fittings turned up, there the same as you would use for either track type fuel systems, hydraulics, nos, etc. there abit over kill for air ride, but they should never start to leak, and are very robust. It also means that nothing is using a push to connect type fitting, and could potentially pop off. so I will have much more confidence throwing it into corners and not worrying You push the braided line in to the one end of the fitting, to do this you need to clamp the end of the fitting in a vice, and really force the braided hose inside while twisting it downwards. t
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It not to hard mate, once you get your head around the wiring. All the controllers need to be linked to the same output. (The manifold) So effectively the controllers are connected together. So when you press the switches in the front to raise the car, the power will go down the wire and to the manifold, but as there are other controller linked in to the same source, the power can also go back down the wire connected to the other controller. Making the current go the wrong way in to other controller. This is a reverse polarity. This can cause PCD boards, and electricical components to get da
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Amazing build mate. Does the charge cool have it own water source? Or have you linked in to you existing water system? How about polycarbonate rear side windows, with a scoop in one side, with some ducting down to near the air filter. Or put and enclosed system coming off the ducting. I've seen it before on cars that run engines in the rear. Or a vent in the 1/4 panels. Neither are very good if your trying to keep it standard looking thou. But is cool idea.
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Das Ponto's 3.2 And the Long Road Home.
c00k replied to DasPonto's topic in Members Rides and Event Photos
Very nice car, and brilliant read! Think almost everyone on here loves a good road trip -
There different. They rear seat belts sit at different angles in 3 and 5 door. And have different ball bearing mechanisms.
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New air ride manifold arrived a week or 2 ago, from the US. This is there new threaded version, so you can use you own fittings. Meaning you have a choice of air line, not limited to 3/8" dot air line. As there old style manifolds came with 3/8" push to connect fitting, pre fixed and sealed in to the manifold. Down side to this are, you can only use 3/8" air line, and if you damage or have a leaking fitting, you need to send it away to get the fitting re-pressed and sealed in to the unit. With this new type I bought, you can use any fittings you want, so you can run any size or type of airlin
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Cheers dude. It's the best way. Apply to much and you would end up lossing the grain around the repaired area. And it not looking like leather. It would be all smooth. Small details make all the differance.
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If the leather in areas is already very warn, the finish and usually the dye aswell have already been removed from ware and tare. So they may just need light sanding. It's the none warn area that will need to be clean with acetone. To remove the finish. So the new leather dye can soak in. Before sealing and finishing over the top. Leather compound is brilliant stuff. Just don't apply to much and lose a lot of the grain. You can clean it out with a cock tail stick if needed. I applied mine with lolly pop sticks in the end. As there thin. And minor areas with cock tail stick. Also water or is
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No I removed the finish 1st. Using acetone, which they call leather prep. Soaking cotton wool in it. And putting that inside of a ultra fine scouring pad. Then rubbing that all over the surface. Clean off any excess. Then clean it with isopropanol. Finally light sand, and apply leather compound if needed. And sand some more.
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Dyed the front seats. Made a shelter from the wind, as it was quite windy that day.... not the best photos, as i couldn't find the charger for my decent camera. so had to use my old shitty one. I did re fit them back in the seat, and put the seats back in the car. but I haven't got a photo yet. went through almost the same process as the bolster. and there a very close match to the colours of the rear seats. Plus im going to dye the black on the rear seats I have decided. Using a small sponge near the edge of the red, applied by hand. Then lightly spray the rest of the black. Leave the red
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Cheers buddy, much appricated. yeah it will be getting polished before being fitted
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Few upgrades for the air ride i'll being fitted soon. Accuair vu4 manifold, instead of 8 individual valves, new hardlines rooted in different places, and custom iPhone control. iPhone controls may not be fitted straight away, as I've made it my self using a Raspberry Pi, and I'm still testing it, and debugging my programming. I used to be a computer network engineer and have done some programming before. Plus I do web and graphics design. In case anyone wondered. I don't work with cars or in the automotive industry as my day job, and never have. it's just a true hobby of mine Also think
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Welcome back dude. There are so many people out there who think they know what there doing with cars, but actually there just making them worse! Glad your able to sort most of the thing, Big to do list, busy will all be worth it on the long run
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I designed and made a new warning label for the rad cover. Printed it on 10yr vinyl with a matt laminate, The old one was starting to peal off in places so it had to be changed. removed the rad cover. and clean area with isopropanol to remove any left over adhesive from old sticker, and to remove any trim gel. Positioned the label in place, and tape in down. to stop the one half from moving. Laying half at a time. To get correct position 1st time. Fitted back on car, and re-applied trim gel.
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Looking very nice dude. Loving the interior!
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Looking very nice dude. Loving the interior!
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Looking good buddy. Come a long way in a short while