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Found 12 results

  1. Hello fellow vr6 owners, I have a few questions, and could use some input- it'd be much appreciated. I can no longer shift my mk3 into gear with the engine on, but when the engine is off, I can get it into 1st, reverse, etc, just fine. I checked all the linkages, and the shifter is in mint condition. I did notice that my clutch pedal feels softer, and lower to towards the firewall than normal. I figured the signs are pointing towards the clutch slave cylinder being kaputt, so I let my mk3 sit for a couple of days for that part to come in. I replaced the clutch slave cylinder yesterday, bled the clutch, but the pedal is unresponsive and completely limp. To add to it, the engine kills itself after starting if I dont hold the gas pedal on 10k rpm (idle). I know I did something wrong, but I have no idea what, how, and could use some advice and input.
  2. I recently pulled my motor on my 2002 vw golf vr6 because there was a knocking noise and I thought it was a bent rod or something, I pulled it completely out and pure stupidity on my end I didn't unbolt the oil pan and check if it was a spun bearing so when I pulled everything out I pulled the oil pan (I know pure stupidity) but it happens, checked the beating and on the first cylinder the bearing was shredded I had purchased eagle rods with 5/16th arp bolts thinking I had to replace the rods but I changed the bearings put it all back together torqued everything down and out the motor back in, started it and there is a slight knock what sounds like from the timing area and I don't know what it could be I changed the oil to a thicker oil and it made the noise subside a bit when it's idling it doesn't do it but when you give it a bit of gas and hold it around 2500-3000 Rpms you can hear it, I have no idea what it could be and any advise or knowledge would be greatly appreciated. This is the first motor I've ever pulled and done work to and the person I bought it from rigged a whole bunch of things so I really don't know I'm getting to the point where I'm just goin. To take it in and half a full rebuild and the eagle rods I bought put in if it's something serious. Mod list: borg Warner s256 full 3 inch exhaust tial wastegate 450cc injectors big fuel pump Je pistons bigger cams short ram intake manifold bigger fuel rail and braided fuel lines with pressure gauge some sort of i beam rods Arp rod cap bolt arp crank bolts ngp head bolts bored 80 over stage 2 clutch titanium valve springs timing has been replaced short throw shifter forgetting some things I'm sure if anyone could help me that would be great thank you
  3. New member that needs help!

    Hi guys. I've been given an R-Reg (97) MK3 2.8 VR6 Golf. 99k miles on the clock with I think 4 previous owners. Unfortunately it had been sitting on a driveway for around 2.5 years with little to no movement, however previous to this had passed it's MOT with no advisories. Around 4 months ago I took it for an MOT, and it failed on: - Suspension Arm has excessive play in a pin/bush nearside front - Suspension Arm attachment bracket/mounting insecure [bolt] - Front CV joint gaiter damaged to the extentent that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt. - ABS warning light (this was on when it passed the MOT however) - Headlamp Aim too high NS - Headlamp Aim too low OS - Front Position lamps not working NS And these were the advisorys: - All wheel arches slightly corroded - sill covers fitted - brake disc worn/pitted/scored not seriously weakended FRONT AND REAR - Brake pipe slightly corroded I think I can do Suspension arm bushing and CV joint gaiter myself (watch a few videos and seems quite easy). HOWEVER - the question is is it worth doing? I've researched the problems with a static car, the main ones being: - all wheels will have to be refurbed as the seal has gone and tyres slowly deflate - Cam belt (however I've been told as it's chain driven that this is nothing to worry about as they should last the length of the engine?) - Rust - VR6's notorious for rust. What I can tell you about how it runs - Seems to run really smoothly, however tappets tick until engine is heated (been told an oil change will fix this), and it roars like a loin. I just really want someones honest advice on what I should do with it? I'd love to keep it but I dread to think what it will cost if there are any underlying problems caused by the car being static for 2 years? Also - how much is it worth with/without an MOT? Is it worth putting it through it or should I just get rid of it now? I know this is a lot of info, but it'd mean the world if someone could shed some light on this for me, Cheers, Oli.
  4. I bought a 97 Jetta with a vr6 that someone pulled to do a clutch and timing chain. They got the engine and trans put back together and then got bored and sold it to me to finish. I've come quite a ways on the project but I've had a couple problems. I'm making this thread to hopefully get some help and document my project along the way. Right now my main issue is that there is a threaded hole in the intake manifold at the front left corner of the engine and I don't know what it's for. Could you guys please help me out? I'll post a picture as well
  5. got a new vr6

    just got a vr6 was told its a highline but its in dragon green and has full cream grey interior its a 1998 model can any one help,and was looking for my old vr6 l41vll if anyone nows if its still around many thanks
  6. How much to fix?

    I've come across a VR6 I like and want to offer on it. Only issue is, they showed me this image. Does anyone know if I would be able to fix this myself (must be fairly easy, if too complicated then I probably wouldn't.) Or how much it would cost to fix? I heard this could fail an MOT but, apparently it had it's MOT in the past few weeks.
  7. Im trying to source this part.... BUT. I simply cannot fathom what its called, which kinda hinders progress Its the 2 pieces of plastic which run under windshield to catch rainwater and cover the fans air intake and windscreenwiper motor. Please help im being a pleb a and cant think. Cheers guys and gals
  8. I'm looking to make my vr6 louder, I've got a 6-2-1 to put on, a decat milltek system which pops flames on red line revving. I wanted to delete the centre box with http://www.bastuck.de/00reloaded/media/pict/FAK_5002000300100110.png but I'm finding it difficult to source this kind of pipe. I don't really want to spend a lot of money best part of £80? please let me know if you have any ideas!
  9. Ive got the dash out and steeringwheel off etc. But I now cannot acces the housing unit to remove my faulty matrix. Im stuffed as I dunno where to go from here and really dont wsnt to take it to a garage ( Someone please help ne on what I should do from here to get the housing out so I can see the internals to fix my leak. Thank you!! this one is inside as far I can see
  10. Found this while "youtubing". Hope this helps.
  11. Other answers?

    Had a typical rear leaky drivers side footwell. Plugged a leaky pipe from the sunroof drain which was front left, bu that leaked into the dash. Dried carpet and underkay out. A month later its wets again. Not around the edges of the footwell, slapbang in the middle? Couod this be a whole?? Didnt feel one. Heard about a vent which sputters into this footwell, just wondered how you check this to be the culprit too Cheers people
  12. I have a 97 golf vr6. I recently had all my mounts replaced front, rear and gearbox just originals from GSF as I couldn't afford the vibra technics ones. When I look at car from the front my engine sits high at the back left sloping to the front right. I never noticed if it was like this before my mounts were replaced and needed some help as to whether this is right or indicates a problem with mounts or their fitting??? When I had the mounts fitted I also had the steering rack and the clutch changed, and I fitted powerflex bushes to the wishbone. I had a number of bumps and creaks that these items were supposed to fix but they have become a knock/click when any poke is applied and a knock when the clutch is engaged or disengaged with differing revs. It's a project car that I have been repairing and speccing up so it's always had something knocking or bumping and I have been working through this list. Am I lucky enough that the mounts are incorrect in some way and this is causing the engine to not sit level and consequent noises??? Or is this something worse? The diff? I have put a pic of the engine from the front to show the lean? Can someone help please?
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