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Phat VR6

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Everything posted by Phat VR6

  1. You can't put the wing on to low. From the sounds of it, its because the chassie legs bent downwards. This is repairable but not cheep. You will need to get the chassie jiged.
  2. Standard compression with make more power... if your runnin low compression will be alittle lower but safer Its not belt slip is it?>
  3. Any pics of the plugs hanging.. They could have disconected the MAF due to it not running write. This could cause it to under perform
  4. Fues box side is easy. Just under the cover pannle by your feet and check all the plugs are pushed in. Clock side if you pop all the heater vents out. remove the screws. Pop the headlight switch out and remove the screws then you can draw all the covers off and you can get to the back of the clocks that way or possibly reach up under the back of the dash (altho ive never tryed that way) Generaly lights will get brighter if somthink stops drawing power but that sounds quite exsecive.. donno if thats highlights a problem
  5. I need a back scratch lol.. But im miles away. Just out of intrest whats happen your end
  6. http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?216904 There you go fella. £50 job done. Get your mechanic to check the guides for you as its done 140k. He could probaly fit you a new set aswell.. Press old ones out. put new ones in freezer over night and press in.. Skim and pressure test is normaly £45 quite a nice cheep fix i recon
  7. Could buy a second hand head from somone (Gav on hear had one not long ago) Skim/ pressure test, stem seals and off you go again Only other thing that would be nice is having new valve guides fitted
  8. Is this the one?.... looks MINT
  9. Can def be done. I did it to a 1.4 mk3. Havn't done it on a mk4 but im pritty sure you will have to change everythink. You will have to check the front hubs/ kuckles as they might not take the big VR brakes. 12v engines are the same but im not sure about the gearboxs on the 12v in mk4 I think the only thing you will be able to use from a mk3??? (if thats what your thinkin of doing) is the engine everythink else will have to come from a mk4 Won't be hard as such but will take time to swap it all over and it obs wont be any good using 1.4 brakes ect
  10. There isn't a special way to take it out. Unless mine and all the other mk3s ive worked on are different to everyone else's You just tap it off the end......simple as that. Hold drive shaft and tap CV joint. There is a circlip but its 3" inside the CV joint. It isn't the type which you use cir clip plyers to spread. theres no hole on it. More of a big spring loaded c clip So just to tap it off...............
  11. Looks nice in there. Ive always wondered what they look like lol. Can you spin the charger upside down if you where using a front mounted intercooler? Keep the pipe work shourt. Or is it fixed like that
  12. Its a litre per 1000 miles in the handbook (mk3)
  13. It could also be the muitplug down the fuse box end
  14. Yer looks dirty.. I like it. Think the grey centers you where on about will look good. Is it on coilovers?
  15. Ive got some but tbf GFS do them for about £5.50 each. and they have the vw sign on the inside so guessing there orginal. Would sell you mine but for the price new theres no point
  16. Havn't a clue. How wide are they and when can we see them on the car
  17. id chill and let it dry out first before you start replacing things mate. I went thought a moosive puddle and it missfired, stalled, juddered wouldn't pull ect. Took 2 days 2 nights before it ran properly.. How long have you left it?
  18. Drill the heads off.. Then mole grip the tread off. Weld a tiny nut ontop and use open end spanner (might melt cover). Butcher the cover off then use mole grips (ruff) Use a punch to tap it round. Good luck
  19. Nasty.... So was this a road cow or has somone taken there 4*4 off road for a change lol
  20. switch that tell you if youve left your handbrake on?
  21. what you thinkin of getting next? Always fancyed a set of deep dish 16s myself
  22. ok so ive pulled the sender out then undone the 3 small screws and pulled the pump out. Ive still got the cream plastic cage in tank and the housing for the fuel pump atached to the cage from some little rubber mountings. How do they come out... Or do they even come out?? Im removing the pump ect from my VR to put into my new car 1.8.... Do i need these cream bits still in the tank to go into my new tank. Im guessing I can use the ones already in there but my luck there different for different pumps Thanks to anyone that knows
  23. no need to compress the circlip on these. Just tap the cv joint off the shaft Try not the pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox end while doing this
  24. lmao... probaly best haha.. So this is swaying me towards the turbo so far + the easy of changin boost levels and possibly for more power from the turbo
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