Yeah its do able for sure. Engines are going for less than a grand Emeralds are going second hand for £350 bit of wiring etc. Use your box and Flywheel also your cooling sytem pipework.
Im sure you can go to 85mm, but you need a good seasoned block but as said above walls become very thin. There will be very little gain in capacity increase to be honest. 83 or 83.5 is ok but is only needed if your bores are buggered.
with a 3.64 it will be taller 180ish on paper but you will need alot power and I mean alot to get over 150-160ish in a VR. You will feel a massive drop in pace when changing from 4th to 5th though.
Stu parts for the gears are 02A311361M and 02A311158R giving you 0.717 5th. Ive got a 3.94 final drive but most people opt for the 3.64. I have not fitted mine yet but I reckon I will only get 110ish in 4th and will be lucky to hit 60 in 2nd at 7100-7200 RPM ish. The 0.717 will give you same top and cruise revs as your standard 5th and 3.389 that you are running at the moment.
Yeah, was going to sell my 12v lump to finance the swap, but after speaking to Andy at Storm I am going to stick with it until it blows, which I cant ever see happening!
Ive been thinking of doing the same as my shell is far from mint, I was also very close to swapping out my 12v for an R32 lump. Most of my Rotrex setup can be bolted straight to the 3.2 and considering the price of 3.2 engines at the moment I was bloody close!
The reason the gasket failed is due to using standard head bolts most likely. ARP head studs are the way to go to avoid it failing again. I had the oil cooler on with my V9 Vortech. When I started using the Rotrex the temperature stayed normal so there was no need to fit an oil cooler. What I did do though was remove quite a bit of the bumper to fit the front mount that I ran with the 12psi pulley. Having said that I now run a 30"x18" Pace pre rad for my charge cooler. A Rotrex charged engine definately runs cooler than a Vortech charged car though. Considering that when the car is running pro
I initially had a 16 row oil cooler set up and removed it after 2 weeks because it oil wasn't getting warm enough. I dont run a cooler thermostat and now only use the standard oil cooler. I drive the car very hard and I never see oil temps above 96. So my advise would be to hold fire on the oil cooler and thermostat. Sort the headgasket first and then see how it runs. Just my 2 pence worth.
There is no reason to reduce compression with only 8psi. You will loose effieciency and you will only need to run a spacer if you are going to run 10-12psi or greater which with a Vortech will give very little gain. A decent standard headgasket and ARP bolts are all you need. Fitted correctly you will never have any issues.
Ive only polished mine once in 2 months and I only wash them once a month if I have the time! The brake dust is getting pretty baked on now. I use the car every day but they do polish up fine with a proper mop and soap bar which is very satisfying.
Surely you are stalling the engine if you are braking to stop the single wheel spinning and you are in gear?! None of what you are describing is anything to do with brakes.