Each charger type will have different cooling requirements. The bigger the capacity the more air you you need to fill it to maintain boost. The better the cooling efficiency the greater the pressure drop generally. Turbo will be much more forgiving if its too big, Vortech I wouldn't bother, Rotrex Im working on at the moment. Going to try a Garrett 18 x 10.5 x 3 core and also a precision 24 x 10.5 x 3.5 core.
John I have a new Bosch one for sale. £55 delivered http://www.boschmotorsandcontrols.co.uk/elektromotoren/aggregate/wasserumwaelzpumpen/0392022002/index.htm .
Really? Boost pressure is a measure of flow restriction though. Was that on a 12V? The charger would have to be spinning so fast and moving so much air to make 20psi at the throttle. I thought 12 psi is the max with the standard bearings and 15psi if you swapped the bearings out for uprated items. Im sure the V1 and V2 chargers can move more air and create more boost.
LOL at GSF stuff. Mate ARP is what you need torque them upto 85ftlbs with their specially goop. They pay for themselves because you can reuse them. I get my Permatex from ebay £13ish.
On a V9 it will be the size of a cotton real, the charger will be generating so much heat. Not to mention that the charger will be overspinning voiding the warranty.
What head bolts/studs are you using? You can use Permatex copper spray between surfaces. So long as the head and deck are clean and flat nothing will need skimming. Give both faces a light sanding with some 180 grit or similar. Dont forget to put the two dowels back in!!
I think Andy at Storm is trying to get Anders at Rotrex to make a C38-91 if you want to wait a little! Its an expensive pulley set up if you put the charger underneath though. You will have the more traditional option also. Thanks to John for hosting the photos, hope you dont mind me putting them on here!
It will be coil per plug and Storm are running most of their cars on sequential now. I was running mine sequential at the end and it was very much smoother as you know Kev. They will run the variable valve timing also with the Emerald.
I did a couple of miles when mine went and did the same as you with the revs. The crank and big end surfaces are very hard so the damage is difficult to see at first, but you can bet that the big end will have gone black with the heat.
Tonk one of your big ends has gone, you will find a slither of a big end shell left in the rod! New crank and rods mate if you want to rebuild it. I saw 128 on the oil temp when mine let go a few years ago.