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xyber

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Everything posted by xyber

  1. Check for any leaks between the MAF and the inlet mani, if ok, buy a new MAF, clear the codes and do a reset
  2. Matt silver is still not easy to pull off DIY as it is still metallic, does look awesome though, like a pewter effect, I think its silver base with no clearcoat or maybe just a vey fine layer for durability Black would be easiest to get a good result from a DIY job
  3. Taking a cheaper alternative first off always ends up costing you more than doing the more expensive alternative in the first place ive found in the past. Build it up so you are confident that it will take whatever you throw at it now and in the future when the inevitable happens and you want more boost
  4. They need to be run at higher pressure but that's the only difference I've had, street use is fine. I've got 205s on 8.5 wide wheels @ 36psi
  5. I was amazed how sharp mine felt once done' date=' esecially when coupled with a geometry tweek [/quote'] geometry tweek *-) Lad who did all the adjustments for me when all back together tweeked the front wheel alighnments to toe in slightly to make it abit more snappy? Havent got a clue about all that stuff, but he knows his stuff and it make a big diference once you have adjusted to the way it handles now, the rear end is slightly more lively
  6. I was amazed how sharp mine felt once done, esecially when coupled with a geometry tweek
  7. I think the obd2 2,9s were vr6 syncro's only so very rare and little chance of getting one Its not worth the effort TBH, just use your TB with the adaptor from Stealth or if you really want a large bore TB look at this http://www.amdtechnik.com/product.details.cfm?ProductID=71&VariantID=64&ReferenceID=268
  8. If it was a 2.9 OBD2 throttle body yes but they are rare, but if you do that I'd suggest a remap as the 2.9 tb can cause probs on a 2.8 but if you fitted it and had a remap you'd get the most out of it and adjust for the larger tb
  9. Go to a local alloy wheel place and buy some spigot rings to keep them centralised
  10. Do as it says on the bottle but as a general rule Paint sealents and glazes - apply, leave to haze, buff off, leave for 20 min before next step Wax/carnuba - apply, leave to haze until it will swipe cleanly with your finger, buff off, leave for at least an hour before the next coat Your always better off doing two very thin coats, it covers better, is easier to buff and leaves a deeper finish
  11. I've heard a few times OE are the best for the job?
  12. that set up has been on there ages and over priced if you ask me .... Yeah, I tried knocking him down but he wouldn't have any of it, wouldn't even throw in the dust shields or allow me to sort out shipping, £50 p&p is a piss take
  13. Gutted wish I could do that, dies my head in messing around with the right combination of MFA buttons and ignition position
  14. ive got one from Gendan, well worth the money. They dont wipe service intervals though, hust display and reset fault code
  15. yeah, now shiney bright red. I cleaned them up with a dremel with a wire brush attachment, wiped down with thinners and painted. I considered Porsche ones and 312mm's but decided to stop spending on it until a certain votex kit was up for sale
  16. I did mine in the week with a £6 tin of halfords high temp engine enamel paint, 2 thin coats and a 3rd thicker one that could be left to flow itself out smooth. Well please with them
  17. Just spotted these on ebay, thought it may be of use to a few on here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SPA-RHD-VR6-Turbo-Exhaust-Manifold_W0QQitemZ130205048541QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item130205048541&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1689%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A2%7C240%3A1318
  18. Ive been at it aswell, 15 hours worth over 2 days. My back is ruined and ive got an early evening hangover haha. Think Ill go for a spin tomorrow and get some decent pics
  19. if you didnt greae it or clean out the brake dust crust, that probablt the problem. Give the slider bolts a good grease up aswell
  20. not used but some places like GSF and Euro will sell them cheaper on exchange basis, very few parts are worth bother with when 2nd hand as you could fit it and it could fail the very next day
  21. yeah, using a clamp or something, to make room for the new thicker pads
  22. did you push back the piston far enough, and put copper grease on the sliders and the slots the pads sit on?
  23. Think the tax is on hold so it will be £245 a year (parkers guide)
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