
matth76
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Everything posted by matth76
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Hi mate 268's your best bet and Stealth recommend Shricks or Eurospec as they don't lose low down torque. How come you raised your compression - surely that will make it slightly less reliable?
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One thing to add about the GMAX kit is that all the dampers are gas dampers and not oil filled...so they are more reliable. If you live in the south give the Phirm a call as they will supply and fit them at a very good rate. They did mine...very happy with mine and certainly looks lower than the 35mm drop advertised...i would say it has dropped my car about 45mm.. I also fitted a deep front spoiler on mine and now it looks nice and aggressive but subtly so... not overly low but certainly looks good. No trouble over speed bumps. Perfect going round corners compared to stock suspension. Good
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Standard VR6 engine figures ?????
matth76 replied to George-1982's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Hi mate Not sure about bhp at the wheels but at the flywheel (which can vary from rolling road to rolling road - depending on how they calculate the transmission losses) the bhp on a standard VR6 manufactured up to mid 1995 has around 174bhp. From mid 1995 onwards (OBD2) golf VR6's have around the 185bhp mark standard as the ECU and throttle bodies are different. Not sure on torque figures as standard though. If your engine is making 180bhp at the flywheel for an OBD1 vr6 then that is pretty good - 5bhp increase sounds about right for the mods you have. Not sure what 243NM torque is in ft/lb -
Yeah I have used that site before. According to my car's weight (1180kgs) and approx power of around 205bhp (tbc at stealth in couple weeks) my car gets a 0-60 figure of 6.25 secs and 0-100 of just over 15.5. According to the same site this equals an astra vxr and beats a focus ST (both of which are also fwd). Does this seem realistic??
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Have you had it on the rolling road? Def get it on there if you haven't to check all the fuelling is right otherwise serious damage could be going unchecked.. such as detonation. A standard VR can easily beat a saxo VTS let alone a the lesser powered VTR (assuming the vtr you raced was standard). A 9:1 or 8:5:1 is a recommended lower compression ratio normally needed to cope with high power on the vr engine. Do you know for sure that the previous owner had a remap after fitting the charger? A rolling road session and VAG COM is the best bet mate to diagnose what is wrong. Try Stealth.
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90 is the average operating oil temp for mine in the summer, and 88 in the winter (which you see on the trip computer). Not recommended to take a VR over 3k revs until it reaches the normal operating temp (which takes about 10-15mins). Mine normally reaches 100-102 if I'm really caning it. The type of oil also affects what the normal operating temp will be but as a guideline it will normally be the high 80's early 90's. By the way I find the standard trip computer much more accurate to see when the car has reached the right oil temp rather than any of the gauges. Use it every time I'm waiti
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police camera action is on ITV4 now Thanks guys for your help. Riggsvr6 forgot to ask you how much power does your golf have approx? Is it possible to have a link to your 0-60 and 0-100mph video footage please (you can PM or email me)? Kev how much power did your corrado have with just the shrick and cams (i.e before the charger)? Standard vr6's have a factory quoted figure of 174bhp. But later OBD2 golfs had around the 185bhp. Mine is around the 200mark maybe a tiny bit more. It had 192bhp and 193 lbs/torque before my 268 cams so I have possibly gained a further 5-10bhp on top of this
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Remapped and with the Corrado manifold should make around the 190-200bhp mark standard.
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I had some fitted by The Phirm just recently. There were two main sorts to go for - ones for just over £70 and some really good quality ones which are supposed to be tougher which were £89. I went for the £89 ones and I was there when they were fitted (along with some 268 cams). Initally they were really noisy, very noisy in fact, but thats normal as they need to fill with oil fully. After a good rev of the engine when it was warm it all quietened down. Now, two weeks or so later, my car is as quiet as a mouse... the only thing I can hear when the car is stationary is my six branch tick
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I saw it in a smiths the other week... but as said above the cost is a bit on the high side so didn't get it.
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Yeah thats what I thought. I assume the owners added the lights themselves. One was silver and one was a blue similar to the subaru impreza blue...very nice
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Saw two nice mark 4 R32's yesterday. They looked really nice apart from the tacky looking 'lexus style' rear light clusters. Just didn't look right on that car. Is this standard on the R32 mark 4?
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My car is very smooth but then I've already had a remap and any adjustments I need will be very small if any. If you aren't getting a remap just yet it should be drivable but I wouldn't rev it too hard or put it under load too often. Should be fine until you get it mapped though. I envy you taking the engine apart and rebuilding it. Sort of thing I would love to do but don't get the time nor have the confidence to put it back together properly!
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You will need to check the fuelling is ok after adding the cams and there isnt any pinking... a remap normally sorts this.
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I've just had 268 eurospec cams fitted. Got them second hand from a member of here. They are copies of Shricks but a bit cheaper! I had a remap before the cams were fitted due to pinking so I may or may not need a further remap tweek but going to have a visit to stealth in a months time to check all is ok. Haven't got any pinking at all since Sat when the cams were fitted (as I had my car scanned under load and at high revs by the phirm) but it may need a tweek when I see stealth plus it may yield a tiny bit more power A remap is normally necessary if you have cams or other big mods to pr
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230 something degrees...I think. Sure someone on here will give an exact figure. Not sure on profile height though. I just had 268 Eurospec cams fitted. Boy have they made an improvement. Eurospecs are the same as Shrick cams but slightly cheaper. Not huge boost in power but pulls noticably harder throughout the rev range. Going to get a rr session and possible remap in a month's time. Are you considering new cams?
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A low brake pad warning light? Blimey I didn't realise the vr had this... sounds useful. Is it on all vr6's? Mines a 97 P-reg. Does the warning light actually work giving you plenty of time to replace the pads or are the pads very well worn by the time the warning light does come on?