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acf8181

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Everything posted by acf8181

  1. thanks for the pics rob. and yes i did get your pics stu, thanks to you as well. i got so many pics now, hopefully i won't need anymore...i'll simply use the best pics i have for everything.
  2. discs all round... fronts are 280mm vented (pre '96 cars), or 288mm vented ('96 on cars) rears are not vented, and not sure what size off the top of my head. susp, yeah...same set up as golf.
  3. sounds like theres a possibility you could have the same prob i had.....its not the actual sensor, but the magnetic thing thats goes on the sproket (which the sender then reads). i presume you had the fault codes checked? and it came up with the hall (impulse) sender fault as an intermitant fault? bet it would come up as a constant fault now. there is a way of testing the actual sender....but not sure how...i didn't do it, my mechanic did it.
  4. if you pull the cover off theres an allen key which you can insert to close/open it manually.
  5. i have been in a car with koni/eibach set up, and damping set to fully soft and it still being what i term as harsh. wasn't a vr though, i'd try and go for a ride in a vr6 with that set up to be sure.
  6. i've never seen one that doesn't have any gap....my o.e. one certainly does, about 6mm i'd guesstimate.
  7. yeah, it wouldn't effect the lights i don't think...i'd be inclined to think its a battery connection prob, maybe a loose earth wire, on yours silverline. first thing to do with a stutter is to spray water lightly onto the leads and coilpack at night to see if theres any sparks. next thing i'd do is is clean the ISV (obd1) and TB. then i'd also change the fuel filter (helped mine a bit) as its costs very little. then if it was still doing it i'd plug it into vag-com. i had a stuttering prob for ages, in the end it turned out that the magnet for the hall (camshaft/impulse) sender was coming apa
  8. I think I may have it. Mine's got black cloth' date=' its a 1998, and its not like any of the ones already posted. I'll take a pic if you want?? Mark [/quote'] yeah, post up a pic.
  9. well, they updated to single row top chain so you gotta presume there was a reason for it...most likely to reduce wear on the runners.
  10. i don't think there any rule to it....i looked a few vr's before mine and both had the multi button switch, yet one was older than my vr and the other was newer.
  11. TSR is fairly near bristol, they may well do it....but they certainly won't be cheap. if you get really stuck, feltham tyres is just of J3 (i think) of M4 and charge £50 for full set up. thats where i have mine done, but is a fair treck for you.
  12. my '93 has one button for the lot....you hold it back to make the roof slide. is very common for roof's to screw up on vr's, and they can cost loads to sort out.
  13. most likely its your camber that is out (it will need to have been reset after the susp was changed). a lot of people don't realise golf's have adjustable camber as most cars don't. you'll have to hunt about as most tyre places only do tracking.
  14. hard to say without travelling in a car equipt with them. the only kit i've never heard any ride complaints about is gmax.
  15. well, this only a theory, but if a cars very rarely been used its oil can get rather sludgy and cause more wear. so it is poss for a mega low mileage car to be worse than an average mleage one.
  16. can you define you're meaning of harsh? when i go over a bump' date=' dip, groove in the road that seems insignificant, sometimes it feels as if i have driven up a kerb, straight on, at 40mph! is this what it's like for you? but on a smooth road, it is perfect - i can really throw the car about - it's amazing! but things like speed bumps and stuff have to be taken at a snails pace![/quote'] not sure i'd describe it as that bad....but i'm used to lowered cars. if you're used to standard spongey suspended cars then you will obviously notice it more. any lowered car needs to almost stop for s
  17. not quite, only '97 on vr6's had single row top chains, so you wouldn't need to change that. i'd have thought you'd need (and this is a guess now)... coilpack, top chain cover, top sproket(s), engine wiring loom. leads will be fine for both, you'll just drop the 7th lead.
  18. i'd give them both a clean again, don't think i'd bother removing the TB tho, and if it doesn't clear up i'd plug diagnostics in and check for fault codes.
  19. did you clean the TB as well? worth a try, and also sometimes it takes a few cleans of the ISV to sort it.
  20. coilpack failures aren't as rare as you'd think (on vr6's...they are on some seats mind). but dizzy's often let water in and screw up. coilpack is great when its working.
  21. ok, the part no. of the other cup is 1H0 412 341
  22. you mean top mount....yes, there are two different sizes and you can just buy the other size to make it fit. i'll look up the part no. on etka in a few mins.
  23. not feeling good about this garage mate....steeling your spare tyre! that plain weird!
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