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The Monk

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Everything posted by The Monk

  1. It's 215 from inner lip to inner lip...i measured from outer to outer...sorry. :-* 205's will stretch anyway, apparently, thats what the seller meant. Will 215's be ok without rolling arches?
  2. Hurry it up craggsy, I want someone to go down south with
  3. Just spent £200 having some TT alloys refurbed.....to find that they are 225mm wide and not 205 like the seller I bought from claimed......is it time to blow my head off or will they actually fit?
  4. Or the chap in the M3 couldn't drive.
  5. when its swiched on ... Well you see, all this stuff you're telling me is what I gather from my common sense and exp with cars. But this chap has told me things about the VR6 and other dubs that I believe him.... In my defense too though, he has modded and created concept air cooled dubs at shows and won lots of times and awards, is the owner of 2 Corrado VR6's that he has stripped and currently working on, a clipper mk1 and a scirroco too, both have been uprated and in all honesty, he knows his ****....
  6. Well I just don't have any use for A/C....as you can tell by my pic, I'm aerodynamic and have no problem with having the air cooling effect I was told by someone with more exp about the aircon. He also believes it sapps about 15 - 20bhp.
  7. Well my understanding is that the weight of the air con system is maybe over a few dozen kilos in total. There is a pulley also and no matter what, the pulley still needs the engine power to turn. Besides, I have never had an A/C system in my previous cars and got on fine without one. I also doubt that A/C will affect the sale price if the time ever comes.
  8. I've taken the front off the car and stripped the engine (blah blah), I just needed to make sure the non A/C engines belt will fit onto the A/C after pully and pump removal as some set ups are different....common sense would dictate the A/C belt was made longer...meh. It was only having little or no compression on cylinder 2 due to an extremely loose SP, coil is fine though, thankfully lol Thanks for the info on the rad though buddy
  9. Thanks, so a non A/C belt will do the trick with no other mods.
  10. First off, I've just been and done a complete looking over the car...loosing coolant...engine tapping to try and find out whats what. Been driving around with no'2 spark plug sitting in the HT well...losing lots of power there...also explains the tapping . Coolant loss is down to a small pin hole squirting from top right of radiator...another problem cracked.....any ideas of how much a rad with fans cost? I've also been wanting to remove the aircon system to give the engine a bit more power and as well I don't and have never used it...so my other Q: is there a belt out there to replace the air
  11. Matey, you'll have to remove the gearbox and bottom chain covers anyway.....as it is an arse ache to do that anyway, you may aswell do the bottom chain and bottom tensioner. If you do it all at once, you don't have anything to worry about really......if you needed to do the bottom in say a year, then you'd have to remove everything again and reset it all....my advice and the advice that everyone else will give, is to replace it all while your doing it.
  12. If you check the reciept for when the HG ws done, they should have a list of parts used. They should have done it, but they also might not have....only the reciepts will tell
  13. The VR6 engine with coil packs use the wasted spark principle, so you usually get a spark on exhaust and induction.
  14. Sorry Craggsy, I would go down with you but I'm going to be in the Carribian :D.....no hard feelings an all
  15. Well my knocking from when I rebuilt my engine only started to subside after around a few 100 miles and eventually disappeared altogether after around 1500....if you've had new valves, it will sound tappetty. Can you establish where the knocking is coming from? Like from the head or the sump? or the tranny?......also, the top hose where? going into the cylinder head? If you are more specific buddy, we should be able to help Where, when, what....ect
  16. Thermostat housing is like a black tube with the brown, blue and yellow sensors attatched under the big inlet manifold or underneath the boil pack or dizzy cap.....you can't miss it, it has a big hose going to it........or, its on the opposite side from the alternator.
  17. Check the security of your brake caliper. If you can, get the rear of your car into the air and give your wheel a horizontal push and pull from each side and then from the top to bottom......check your brake discs too as there could be a stone lodged between your disc and caliper.
  18. Cheers guys ...I'm afraid to say I'm big and dumb.
  19. Most of the events are between 70 - 250 miles away. I wouldn't want to look like a plonker turning up to a camp or something with WRC looking bodywork. Do you guys and girls clean day before event and then somehow wash them at the events? What to take with regards to cleaning AT an event would help too Thankies.
  20. Hi Jim' date=' everyone is welcome on our club displays. We're an owners club not one of these show and shine clubs All we ask is if you bring your car in a presentable state [b'] i.e washed I'll add you to Ben's Club display list If I wash mine, then travel the 130 or so miles, I'll turn up looking like I've been cross country...even if it was washed the same morning...can't win lol.
  21. They buying their timing chains from gold platers? Chains and tensioners from vw for me was 102 exc V.A.T. If 1600 for a rebuild is the going price, I may just have to start up my own business lol.... I rebuilt mine again the other week from scratch after the plonkers doing my CH fu***d up my HB threads, all of which took me 2 days... so around 1k after parts per rebuild is good for 2 days.
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