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Phat VR6

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Everything posted by Phat VR6

  1. Ive just had mine done (for people that don't know what it is its ment to improve your spray patten and fuel delivery back to how they where when new... after years and 1000s of miles they can clog up and you can loose performance and it can effect your MPG) anyway ive had mine done and they have changed the little orange plastic caps that go over the nozzle end of the injector. The new ones are yellow and they are very close to covering up the 4 pin holes where the fuel comes out.. the old onces had alot more room around the 4 pin holes Im thinking that this is going to effect my spray p
  2. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2970226 Detailed pics regards gear selector in here. Also the chopping out and reinforcement of the rear for front subframe. Im unsure about handbrake. perhaps make a bracket to make standard rear caliper bolt onto front hubs and use the 288s on the rear
  3. fair play dude... don't sell the VR
  4. you could do but it will probably look pants..... i hate stone chips, you should stop tailgating people lol this is prity much how i wanted my mk2, but id change the rear lights and can't make my mind up about smoothed door handles. ever thought about a bmw top fill rad? would really finish off the bay
  5. much prefer the rally front. well impressed that your doing the work yourself. new wheels are mega
  6. 60 stellas would be a v good price from a garage lol craggsy, might be of interest http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2427194
  7. i still watching lol. what drive shaft / CV combo you using?
  8. pritty much the same cost chick. List of parts for 280+ Exhaust manifold Turbo (T04E, T4 60-1, T3/T4 been common cheaper choices) Oil feeds/ return 3" downpipe Headspacer and gaskets APR headbolts 38mm wastegate DV vavle Intercooler + pipework C2 fuel kit(injectors, maf housing, software) Fuel pump Timing chains if not already replaced is advisable This kind of set up is thats needed for 280 upto 350/ 400bhp Only way you can go cheaper with turbo is to run 6 psi (around 250ish bhp) Parts needed Manifold Turbo 3" downpipe 38mm wastegate (believe 44mm better for low boost but if his upgra
  9. lol... dude on a mad one, and im not thinking of buying any time soon.. more of a question of IF it can be done. if you could ask him how much or just would it be possible to make 3 door doors
  10. ah unlucky dude.. was worth a try. have you kept your old relay? put your old fuel pump relay back and if there the same swap your ECU relay for your new one. If that don't help its another thing to tick off the list Clear the codes and see if your "00282 Throttle Position Actuator -V60" code comes back... if it does then that needs sorting, (fix the things that you know are broken first)
  11. meh im past caring now lol... in the end i was washing my hands in between each paste. using new cloth each time. when its my motor i go on a para but its all back together now so ill see what happens.. then to top it off doing the last 90 deg on head bolts I skipped 10-16 and had to go back to then because of a phone call :@ lol don't think its as sensitive as think... will find out soon enough
  12. LOL :-d I haven't been putting them on the stems... only on the seats but somehow no matter what i do theres a little bit of paste getting onto the stem and scratching them :S
  13. How does everyone else do it? Ive been using course then fine paste. wiping stark with different cloth to what im wiping the cutting paste off with. oiling up each time But im still getting fine scratch's on the valve stems (bit that runs inside the guide) Does this matter? doesn't seem to matter what i do i still scratch them! what technique does everyone else use? Cheers Tom
  14. do what i did and buy a rust free cheep strate mk3 cl or driver for £400-£600 and bolt everything to to New brake pipes, res cap, and poss MAF to sort the running problem and its all done for £700.... cheaper than repairing that and cheaper than buying a rust free VR
  15. yep that's right... bottom out/ top in Having that camber up front improves the turn it quite a lot... to much camber up front and the back end will come out all the time The rears aren't adjustable so you don't need to worry about that, but if the tracking or camber is WAY out you can make adjustment with camber shims. If you want to improve it more round bend then relocate your battery to the boot and fit some slim line spal radiator fans.. just helps get some of the weight off the front end
  16. have the fronts at 1.5 deg neg have you recently fitted the suspension and not had the tracking and camber set after? check for leaks around the dampers... but poor tracking and camber does destroy a cars handling. The smoking and poor running problem?
  17. tracking and camber mate... did you sort that other problem out?
  18. still sound like its relay related to me http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=2080.0 (another relay related problem thats very similar to yours)
  19. changed both of them on mine and made no difference - however is maybe worth it as they are a lot cheaper to replace than the immobilser problem !! thought yours was coilpack related in the end? anyway doesn't make a difference. there could be a number of things wrong with it which is hard to diagnose over the internet
  20. ECU or fuel pump relay im 90% sure its one of these 2
  21. fair play geez.. much better way of doing it over welding in a sycro floor pan imo. looks more strate forward than it sounds. how long has the hole project taken you so far? what you using to control the diff?
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