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spindat45

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Everything posted by spindat45

  1. spindat45
    LOL. Well I asked the boss (myself) and he said it was ok. Something about being a good employee and deserving a break. Not to mention missing out on the snow and ice...... :-p
  2. spindat45
    Hi all and a belated happy new year. Recently back from my hols so this is my first post of 2010. SLS tuning in Germany recommended that I move the MAf sensor to the intake pipe before the charger. They supplied me with a chip which I can change myself once i've moved it but for now it's running a map that feels great. A little lumpy at low revs in second gear for instance, but otherwise I've had no issues with lumpy idle. I'll relocate the Maf sensor at some point this year and report on any changes. Kevin
  3. spindat45
    BJV Engineering did my BBS RC's. Sprayed silver, diamond cut faces and then lacquered. Some before and after pics from my thread here http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?119591.50 I highly recommend them! They will fit your tyres to your refurbished rims so that in the unlikely event that they are scratched or damaged during fitting, this can be sorted there and then at no extra cost. You can also choose the type of valves you want depending on your wheels. Kevin
  4. spindat45
    Was a good night even though I turned up in time for a slice of cake/door wedge/wheel chok. YUM! Good to catch up with the usual suspects for a final chin wag of the year. roll on 2010. Craig and Tony's attempts to incapacitate each other were the highlight of the night. LOL. Oh and I did go to Luton in the R32 I wonder if it's too late to ask Santa for one.......?
  5. spindat45
  6. spindat45
    You never know who might turn up in a silver R32....
  7. spindat45
    I'm afraid you won't be seeing that mate. It was an ongoing NS Tuning project. Sparkz has got his new toy though and it's very smart indeed, so we'll probably use that on Saturday.....
  8. spindat45
    It's the oil pump at the offside rear of the engine. When the engine first fires up from cold and the oil is thick, the pump whines a little as it starts to do its job. I'd say it's complaining at being woken up. As long as it goes after a few minutes, you have nothing to worry about. That's why I always let mine idle for at least 5 minutes before revving or moving off and then I never take it much above 2000rpm until the oil temp has reached 70- 80 degrees on the MFA. Sticking to this helps prolong the life of these wonderful engines in my opinion. Kevin
  9. spindat45
    No probs. I'm a fair distance away from you if you're near the tunnel as I'm more SW, but tbh I don't like to get my hands dirty anymore, even when it comes to my own car. plus I don't have the time these days and can't take the cold. I'm more the free helpful advice type of mechanic . I hope you get it sorted. Kevin
  10. spindat45
    I used to do tracking and it sounds to me like the person doing your tracking didn't know how to resolve the problem. You may have to set the rack up by measuring the length of each arm but the following was how I used to set up new steering racks prior to adjusing the tracking. Steering wheel needs to be removed in my opinion so disconnect battery, remove the airbag and undo centre nut but not completely. A firm hit from behind the wheel should free it from the spline but leave it in place until the end. Get the front wheels of the car as straight as possible by eye when on the ground. Re
  11. spindat45
    LMAO. Yep those would be the ones. Toasted ankles anybody?
  12. spindat45
    No probs mate. All sorted now?
  13. spindat45
    I don't think this is needed anymore. I was sent a very interesting picture earlier of the car this diagram was needed for on a rolling road.......
  14. spindat45
    Great minds eh
  15. spindat45
    Did you just get the tracking done or did they do the camber as well? If the camber was out of alignment it would drastically atler the tracking. Even if the tracking was corrected, excessive negative camber on the nearside alone could makeit pull towards the kerb. Kevin
  16. spindat45
    Mine has heated mirrors but they don't work. I think that will be the case with most. Two wires connect to an element on the back of the glass which were corroded. These wires and spade connectors often break. The thieves who nicked my O/S glass last year didn't need to remove the plastic casing and didn't damage the mechanism behind it so they can't be that hard to get off. I got a s/hand one, fitted it but it doesn't heat up but I've never bothered to find out why. I think if you adjust the glass so it's pointing as far in towards to the car, you should be able to pull the glass out. Please
  17. spindat45
    I know what it is......
  18. spindat45
    Judging by the rusty water marks on the front of the engine, I'd say it's your thermostat housing that's leaking. Possibly from where it connects to the "crack pipe" which runs under the inlet manifold to the back of the water pump. You should be able to get the housing with all seals, new thermostat and crackpipe with seals from GSF or Euro carparts. Don't take a chance on just changing the seals as it WILL leak and you'll have to strip it all down again. Sign up as a premium member on here and you'll get a nice discount from GSF Kevin
  19. spindat45

    piercings

    spindat45 replied to anna's topic in General Chat

    *-) Was watching a programme ealier about Black Mambas so yes they definately hurt and can be deadly
  20. spindat45

    piercings

    spindat45 replied to anna's topic in General Chat

    Why did I just google those last two? *-)
  21. spindat45
    Great minds Tony
  22. spindat45
    Is the rusty looking water below the coildpack? That would point to the thermostat housing leaking. They're plastic and often leak if not replaced when changing thermostats or just with old age. What colour is the cap on the coolant reservoir? I had a black one on mine and could always smell coolant under the bonnet but could never find the source of my coolant loss. Changed it to a blue one and all sorted. There is a pipe connected to the back of the head that comes from the bulkhead which often splits due to the movement of the engine. It can leak slowly down the back of the engine without
  23. spindat45
    Like the guys above I went for an VF solid front mount and new standard rear and gearbox mounts. A solid front engine mount won't increase torque in my opinion. It makes hard. acceleration feel a lot smoother as there is little or no movement from front of the engine. I'd definately suggest replacing the rear mount and gearbox mount with standard ones as they do take a hammering over time. These won't send as much vibration through the car as some solid mounts although I hear Vibra Tech mounts all round aren't as harsh as VFones. Kevin
  24. spindat45
    LOL. That's just showing off Craggsy
  25. spindat45
    Sadken, I'd go for 32 psi all round for the type of driving you do. Unless you're carrying heavy loads, 38 and 36 psi sounds a bit high for everyday driving to me. I certainly wouldn't go any higher than that. Block treaded tyres with low profiles such as these will always wear on the edges even with the correct tracking and camber settings. Power steering and dry steering being the main causes. I have 205/40/17's on mine and I stick to 32 psi all round. I think i put 34 in when I was returning from Germany, 3 up with a boot full of tools. If you go too high the centre of the tyre treead ca
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