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spindat45

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Everything posted by spindat45

  1. Hi Pete. Pat used up the 8 in no time when he wrapped mine http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj201/spindat45/110920091931.jpg. Depends how neat you want it I guess and if you wrap the pipes individually Kevin
  2. My cousin ordered a pack of the cable ties from ebay. Lots left over but they come in handy. It does take a while to get it wrapped properly but it's worth it. Try to overlap half the width of the wrap each time so it doesn't separate. I had an Ebay decat and Miltek exhaust which bolted straight to the 6 branch so I don't think you'll have any problems there.
  3. Approximately 10-15 bhp but more of a raspy sound to the exhaust note
  4. I got a Hottuning manifold from Strictly Dubs http://www.strictlydubs.com/Contact.html a couple of years ago. Might be worth giving them a call and seeing what they can do. At the time, we got them for £150 each.The first link you put up looks almost identical to the Raceland/Hottuning one but difficult to tell the quality from a picture. i'd strongly recommend heat wrapping it. I used this wrap http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HEAT-TREATED-EXHAUST-WRAP-50MM-X-20M-LONG-SST-/260721215467?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cb43207eb soaking it in water before makes it a lot easier to do ht
  5. Hi Ads. Thanks for the positive comments. I haven't added to this thread in ages as I have done very little to the car of late apart from the usual maintainance things. When I first bought the car I planned to "lightly" modify it but as most VR owners will tell you, once you start, it's hard to stop. I had a fairly good base car to start with so that made things easier. It was by no means a perfect example but it helped. I started with the basic but important things before I went in search of more power. Made sure then engine was in as good shape as possible then moved on to brakes and suspens
  6. It's only bad if it crunches as noise = wear but over time it could get to the stage where it crunches regardless of speed. I drove mine for well over 2 years but I'm a "conservative driver" most of the time. It did mean holding back a bit on the first to second gear change but it didn't go altogether or get any worse. The cheapest option would be to have it repaired/reconditioned. That way you would know that the entire gearbox was ok. Alternatively buy a secondhand gearbox but that comes with obvious risks. I bought a secondhand box and had that reconditioned. I kept the original as a spare
  7. Hi. It's very unlikey to be gear linkages as it would crunch or be hard to select gear regardless of what speed.. Sounds more like the synchromesh in the gearbox on second gear. Basically the synchromesh speeds the next gear up to the same speed as the main shaft (layshaft) so you can engage second gear smoothly and without crunching. I had this problem with mine in the original box and it was confirmed when I had it reconditioned. I've had a few boxes reconn'd for people and I always ask my gearbox specialist to pay attention to second as it's a common thing due to the fact that second gea
  8. spindat45

    sls

    That would be me and my cousin's road trip .... http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?315466.0 Stefan and the guys over there really know there stuff and the roads near SLS are perfect for "road testing ". I don't think you'll be disappointed. Are you in Germany or driving from the UK? Kevin
  9. Hi I have Gmax suspension kit on mine (shocks & springs). It's the 40 VW 25 kit and it's been perfect with an overall drop of about 40mm. I live in London where speed bumps are all over the place but I rarely have clearance issues. I'd suggest that the Boge shocks might not suit the Gmax spring setup. If they are for a VR at a standard height, the fact that you've lowered your car could be causing the shocks to bottom out when you go over bumps. Did you change top mounts and have the tracking and camber checked after fitting? If either of those are out of alignment by a considerable amoun
  10. Yep I finally did it! Broke my 1/4 mile duck so to speak. It's as addictive as I thought it would be. Managed to get 11 runs in before 12.30 with my best time being 15.1 seconds. Crossed the line at about 94 mph in 3rd . It dawned on me last night that on my last run I still had half a tank of petrol left so I'm sure that I'll get below 15 seconds at some point. Thanks to Jim and tony *cough* for the advice on getting my starts right. Jim said something about "drive it like you stole it". I did and it worked. It was great to meet a few new faces as well as the old ones. "Tony" did really well
  11. Bring it! I'll throw some carpet tacks in your lane at the start line. That should do it
  12. I will be there on Sunday (weather permitting) and plan to finally run mine on the 1/4 mile. Can't wait! Kevin
  13. Hi Gav. BJV http://www.wheelrefurbishing.com/OLDSITE/contact.htm did mine a few years ago. They did an excellent job and I know of a number of other VAG owners who have used them. Some before and after pics from my thread http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?119591.50 Kevin
  14. The decat is longer than it needs to be so it can be cut to fit. Different exhaust systems will require different lengths. It would be hard to say exactly how much to cut off but if you lay it next to your old cat or better still measure it then cut the de cat to size (slightly longer just incase) you should be somewhere near the correct length. The "fitter" should have realised that it needed to be cut down imo. I have an ebay decat on mine with a Miltek cat back exhaust and it did take a few tries to get it right and to have the tail pipes flush with the rear splitter. Kevin
  15. I was going to go for the T!-R's as I've heard good things about them but wanted to keep the same tryes all round. I don't think you'll be disappointed with the PX4's though Karl. Kwik Sh*t are tea leafs. Watchdog last week was the icing on the cake. My mate went in there to get two front tyres for his 4 Motion (18's). They quoted him £90 each. I can't remember the make but I went onto the Camskill website while we were on the phone and the same tyres were £65 each delivered the next day. After a little "checking" Kwik Fit somehow managed to supply and fit the pair for £130 and included tr
  16. I've had the toyo PX4's on mine for just about a year and a half. I replaced the two on the front a couple of weeks ago with the same albeit 205/40/17's. . Good tyre in the dry and the wet . They also look good not that it matters too much though. I bought them from Wheelbase via flea bay also and they delivered very quickly. Kevin
  17. You're most likely to get belt slip from the main belt which is the long one one which goes round crank, power steeering etc. It does take a bit of time to get the tension right and can be a little fiddly. I had mine mapped in Germany this time last year at SLS Tuning. Like Ben I'd also recommend Stealth for you remap. Kevin
  18. You're quite right, you don't need cams or injectors. It's just worth considering if you decide to add them at a later date you would need to get it mapped to suit. I didn't change cams or injectors on mine and got the stated 250bhp with some belt slip due to it needing to be replaced. Btw I'm running a ZR1 charger, also with a 6psi pulley. Kevin
  19. As long as they are about an inch from the outer edge of the tyre then they should be repairable. A decent tyre shop should be able to do the repair. I had two front tyres fitted and a puncture repaired on a rear tyre the other day and they charged me £25 cash. That was at a place I've been going to for years so I think I got a bit of discount. A puncture repair shouldn't cost much more than £15 with the valve and balancing per wheel. Kevin
  20. You can fit it but it will run like crap as the ECU won't be supplying the engine with the correct amount of fuel at the right time i.e. when you hit boost and need it most. Especially if you change injectors or cams. It's well worth getting all of your other mods done (cams, injectors, exhaust etc) and saving up for a remap imo. Kevin
  21. 16 plugs? lol That's just plain greedy mate. I'm also using standard leads with no probs. I think the 4 bar FPR is a necessity once you go FI with or without red tops.
  22. I've had NGK Laser Platinum plugs in mine ever since I charged it. PFR6Q 6458. They are S4 plugs and are colder than standard so better suited to FI. I've had no problems with them whatsoever. I have a basic stage 1 set up so standard injectors and a 4 bar FPR. As above, Dubpower leads are a good look. If you had it mapped with standard injectors after it was charged, changing them to red tops and not getting it remapped will cause allsorts of problems as the car won't be fuelling correctly. What charger are you running and at what psi? Kevin
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