FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Bets cc injectors for 8psi pully charged? also where from?
FishWick replied to 6potmkII's topic in Engine Tuning
I'm on the standard head gasket with 12psi! Holding up nicely. Red tops are 303cc, 32ish lb, 16 ohm, Bosch 150 series. Have a look on US ebay as they come up very often and you can bag a set for under £100 usually. They're about £45ish each over here, new. Don't use the brown tops, they run at 100% duty on 6 psi. No where near enough for 8psi. -
Battery is already in the boot but I'm not sure on Chargecoolers though. Schimmel's looks good though. The G60 one I used was brand new and Vince pressure tested it, seems OK. Maybe it's just inefficient? I could get Forge to make a copy of it, but with improved flow? For the time being, I think I'm going to lag all the boost pipes with aluminiumised cloth, lag the front pipes and refit the G60 cooler - and just live with the pressure drop. At least then the power delivery should [hopefully] be more constistent as less boost with a denser charge and correct fuelling makes more power than m
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Will do. I've hit a stumbling block on intercooling. I can't think of a neat solution that keeps the boost path short and the losses low and as it's in a Corrado, I'm stuffed even more unless I start chopping the car up for front mount, which I'm loathe to do. Anyone know of a chargecooler that actually works? Cheers
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285 with 8psi and standard manifold. The schimmel setup needs a fair bit more work as yet. It's the first map he's done with one on a 2.9 and it took a lot of work to get right as the airflow characteristics are very different to that of the standard manifold.
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They're still on Vince's computer! Didn't think to get copies. I'll get him to email some screenshots over when he's not so busy.
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Hi folks, Just thought I'd give Vince a massive shout for the huge amount of effort he put into my car from Thursday to today in getting my Schimmel Manifold and G60 intercooler fitted, along with a 12psi pulley. The fitting went really well and his team did a fantastic job of the pipework etc, all looked pukka and ready to deliver some good horse. To cut a very long story shory, we ran into loads of problems and the Intercooler had to be scrapped as it was losing 4psi :-( It was getting late today (we were there until 7pm mapping it, having started at 8am) and were both extremely tired, so we
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Great result. I was there (Grey Corrado on ramps) that day and the engine sounded a million times better after he mapped it.
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pulling left under breaking
FishWick replied to BRG's topic in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Check the nearside front damper for oil leaks. That's always the one that goes first as it's where 90% of the bumps are. It will definitely pull to the left if the damper is shot due to the lack or bump force. -
Turbo if you spec it up properly to be lag free, otherwise charger everytime.
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I've got the 2.8 OBD2 manifold and throttle on my 2.9 engine and it pulls a lot better than it does with the 2.9 manifold. The CC difference between the 2.8 and 2.9 means nothing, purely a marketing excercise to seperate the Corrado from the Golf.....the differences in power and delivery are purely managment and intake governed. 2.9 lets more air in, but at the expense of bottom end. 2.9 has a higher rev limit, it was the fastest production VW at the time, so they didn't care about bottom end, just so long as it could pull 145mph. OBD2 2.8s are by far the best daily usable VR6 engine.
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Until the Rotrex kit for the VR6 is proven, reliable and cost effective, I'm sticking with Vortech. Every company in the motor industry claims to have the best product in the world, so do your research before buying into it. That rotrex is neat though I have to say!
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The only issue with losing the MAF is fuel trimming for this time of year. You lose 10 fuel usable blocks. Mine was mapped without a MAF in the winter but now that summer is upon us, the engine feels less lively than before, but only slightly. I can't say I can really notice a big difference between the mafless and maf maps. It's just nice to not have the thing there blowing hot and cold all the time and upsetting the trimming. Performance is a damn site more consistent without the MAF and making a solid 290 with 260 pounds off 8psi. The MAFless thing came about because Jake's car wouldn'
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Decats usually see improved torque, rather than a reduction ;-) If you can't be arsed with the yearly gamble of the MOT, then a 100 cell sport cat from Milltek is a good idea. I used to have a Supersprint bypass on mine and there was no loss in power or torque when fitting the sport cat, and mine is charged.
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It's worth noting VW have now uprgraded the VR gaskets to metal ones. I believe they also knock the compression ratio up to about 10.2:1 as they're only about a mill thick. I think Stealth still stock the original Victor Reinz gaskets. In this summer heat, keep the engines as cool as possible. Leave the heater on in the car on speed 1 (open the windows!), stick some redline water wetter in, and wire up speed 3 to a switch on the dash. Prevention is better than the cure :-)
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VR overheating advice please? **SOLVED**
FishWick replied to six appeal's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
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Fitting takes about 30 mins and no need to calibrate it, it does that itself. Just switch the ignition on to position 2 and leave it for about 30 seconds. Then you'll hear the noises I explained earlier as it sets itself. Give it a bash and see how you get on.
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VAG-COM is a bit more than that, it translates the error codes for you and runs from a laptop/PC. OBD2 ECUs can be forced to adapt the throttle and you can also check it's operation in the measuring blocks. Shame you're so far away otherwise I'd check it over for you. When you turn the igntion on for the first time, can you hear the throttle making a high pitched whine and clonk a couple of times? This is the adaptation process. If it's silent, it indicates a problem!
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Assuming a 17" tyre and 7000rpm rev limit (charged VR for example) - Gearbox:- Vr6 Tyre:- 205x40x17 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Top Gear gives 24.509 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 171.564 MPH at 7000 RPM Engine speeds in top gear:- 30 MPH = 1224 RPM 40 MPH = 1632 RPM 50 MPH = 2040 RPM 60 MPH = 2448 RPM 70 MPH = 2856 RPM 80 MPH = 3264 RPM 90 MPH = 3672 RPM 100 MPH = 4080 RPM Top Speed in 1 gear = 39.161 MPH And changes into 2 gear at 4033 RPM dropping 2967 RPM Top Speed in 2 gear = 67.978 MPH An
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Been considering this also. Is there an online place to tell you were local refilling stations are, and how much are we talking for a refill?
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An N reg could be OBD2. Does yours have an idle valve? If not then it's OBD2, in which case the throttle position sensor could be worn. The bad news on OBD2 is the throttle is a sealed unit and costs £250+VAT from VW! If it's OBD1, you can replace the throttle sensor. £40 from VW. Sounds like the ECU is readapting itself everytime you remove and replace the plug, hence the short lived improvement. Find out if it's OBD1 or 2 first.... there's a sticky thread about it somewhere.
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More importantly the G Lader doesn't have enough cfm to satisfy the VR's thirst for air.
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I hate any form of lag with a passion. The only turbo'd car I've driven that doesn't have any at all is the BMW 535d. Sequential bi-turbo, 413lb/ft torque, absolutely no lag. Single turbos if not spec'd properly can be laggy. Superchargers are obviously completely lag free and I wouldn't say a turbo has any real advantage over a supercharger, other than reduced parasitic loads. Bill Schimmel has extracted well over 400hp from his supercharged VR6s using his short runner intake and intercoolers. The V9 charger can deliver 20psi, or even a Rotrex, which spins up to 100,000rpm and can delive
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GirlVR6 is right to mention the HG could blow. Speed 3 comes on at 120 degrees i.e. an unhealthy temperature. It should never come on during normal driving, inc sitting in traffic in 31 degree summers for an hour. Speeds 1 and 2 should do all that's required. If they don't, you have a problem and VRs hate running too hot, the first thing to go is the HG - if the rad top hose doesn't firt. Check the 2 pole sender in the radiator. It controls speeds 1 and 2. 1 is a direct relayed feed off the battery. Speeds 2 and 3 are controlled by the big box on the nearside chassis turret. Speed 1 - 9
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I'd only change it 100rpm either side of default personally, but suck it and see.
