FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Schimmel 263 cams. Normally aspirated, turbo or supercharger. They are the best cams around.
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Suspension is very subjective. I find the Eibach springs to be very hard. H&R springs are better imo. 20mm is a sensible drop too. Most people go too low and f'ck the wishbone geometry, which ruins the handing on challenging B roads. Being low does not mean good handling, contrary to popular belief. People are fooled by the massive compression forces after market kits dial into their dampers (think Spax) and the 50% (at least) uprated spring rates. it makes the car firmer and corner flatter, but it does nothing for suspension travel in bumpy conditions.
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Aye, cause they were engines straight from Japan tuned to 100 octane. Took Prodrive a while to get that one sorted ;-)
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That's quite a sizable boost spike then!. A "built" engine would be better able to withstand that kind of pressure. If the boost fuelling and timing aren't c0ck on with standard pistons, they will melt like cheese. Forged pistons can take more punishment. Nothing wrong with the JEs. They're a little loose in the bores to reduce friction, so I hope you don't have an allergy to cold morning piston slap. The "Total Seal" rings aren't particularly nice to install either, so your engine builder should preferably have experience of this kind of work before. I used the JE 83.5mm pistons initi
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You can't. You use a 12V metal gasket. The confusion about the 4Motion comes from people calling it a "MK4 gasket". In America, MK4 Golfs had a 12V VR6 with a thin metal gasket. Over here, we only got a 24V in our MK4s. Stealth racing sell the Victor Reinz metal gaskets for VR6s. It's the only one to use. Don't use the Elring one, they leak....although curiously, if you take the Reinz one out of the wrapper, it has Elring written on it! Bizarre......
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Yean an R32 stands a better chance but it still wouldn't beat an Evo 9, assuming the driver's have equal ability and both giving it their all. Sorry, but the Evo's 4WD system is in a completely different league to VW's! No offense intended, but the Haldex is far too basic to trouble the Evo's active centre diff and yaw control. As for scoobs, agreed, very common and most of their owners haven't got a clue how to drive them, plus they put up with the car's inbuilt understeer instead of sorting it, LOL! But I was thinking more along the lines of P1s and Spec Cs, Type 25s etc etc.... the PROPE
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OK, the SPA turbo manifold. I really like the design of it. It's perfect for RHD cars. Sites the turbo in the correct place behind the block and at a good angle. Unfortunately the 2 I've had have been absolutely schitt quality. Both had very poor port alignment and one of them cracked. The second one had to be sent off to a specialist iron worker to be modified at great expense. I have a suspicion there are copies of the SPA manifold kicknig around, which are the really schitt ones. They have the SPA turbo text ground off, so are easy to spot. The people who sell them plead ignorance, a
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I'd be surprised if that little turbo can do 30+psi. The whole lot is $500 cheaper than the Garret GT35R on it's own, so that gives you a clue as to where the savings have been made. It's a cheap copy turbo made in China. The manifold is the usual low nickel content, ATP clone special you find everywhere on ebay. Not really a fan of these cheap kits as you can probably tell :-)
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I recommend Wossner forged pistons. Stealth Racing can supply those. I'd be surprised if a rod has bent with 1 bar boost. Did you over boost it temporarily? Wossner also do some nice rods. The Crower ones Bill Schimmel use are nice too, and cheaper due to the favourable exchange rate. It's the proper way to do things. I don't like spacers and other short cuts personally.
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I have absolutely no interest in 0-60. It's not a real world yard stick. In gear acceleration is the man's way to measure grunt :-). 0-60s are purely down to launch, traction, revs and weight. An 1800 Elise can destroy a lot of things in a 0-60 because it's light, but it has no midrange torque, so gets beaten by diesels on the dual carriageway! Same with VTECs. No torque, but low weight and schitt loads of revs and low gearing gives it a good 0-60. Evos and Subarus. They would annihilate me on cross country B roads. That is their preferred hunting ground and what they're setup
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LOL. I don't go round baiting for races, but I do take issue with berks tailgating me and generally driving like a knobber behind me. Thing is, in a day and age where silly diesel hatchbacks and 1 series BMWs seem to need 245/40/18" tyres, when they're behind my 15 year old VW, wearing skinny 205 tyres and sporting a monstrous 2.5" tailpipe, they assume I'm easy pickings. Wrong :-) I dunno, I just like being the under dog waiting to attack unsuspecting, cocky reps. Anyway, my 2 favourite races so far:- 1) Driving down the A14 past Cambridge when a Porsche 996 Carrera S attachs itself t
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LOL! Yeah we can chav baiting round Colchester :-) Nah, the guys I like annoying are the smug gits in Audis, Boxsters and Subarus etc. They think they're driving the fastest cars in the world, especially those A3 TDI rep idiots who think a peak of 270lb/ft over 500rpm is enough to beat a ferrari!!! I love beating them! Chavs in Type Rs and things I let them get on with it, not worth burning the fuel as they're too easy :-)
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Can i run a 2 stoke engine backwards? (sorry its not related)
FishWick replied to Phat VR6's topic in Engine Tuning
Cool! I don't really know how 2 strokes work, but that answers it, cheers :-) I just remember reading somewhere that 2 strokes couldn't be used in cars and things because of emission and noise problems...... and the exhaust gases hanging around in the cylinders on the intake stroke.....hence some engines having some kind of pressure to push the fumes out.....or something?! Didn't the 1.25L Fiesta had a Yamaha 2 stroke engine in it? -
Can i run a 2 stoke engine backwards? (sorry its not related)
FishWick replied to Phat VR6's topic in Engine Tuning
Don't 2 stroke engines have fins on the crank to push the exhaust gases out or something? In which case it wouldn't work in reverse :-) -
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I like to use Silkolene Pro S 10W/50. VR6s tend to drink a bit of oil at high rpms. Silkolene slows consumption and it runs super smooth, www.opieoils.co.uk
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5th gear? dyno runs should be done in 4th as it's the closest to a 1:1 ratio. 9psi on a stock motor with spacer should be seeing around 300 crank power. Does it feel 300 horse? I suspect your dyno result is inaccurate.
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Hiflow's quote is a good one mate. I'm very surprised by that actually. They do some good work. I recommend 1mm oversize valves (best quality available), plunge cut seats, port matched intake, fill in surface pits and full skim, Schimmel H/D springs, new INA tappets and uprated exhaust studs. Don't bother with flowing. That takes care of the head. Rods - You don't need them if staying at or under 500 crank power. Bare in mind putting 400 wheel power to the ground is going to be a challenge. I would spend the money making the drivetrain bullet proof instead. Gearset, driveshaft shop a
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Yeah £800 is about right, roughly what I paid for my Schimmel head. His heads use inconel valves made by Ferrea, which are very nice indeed. £800 is good value for a head of his spec. You will struggle to get a head built to that spec in the UK for that amount! Sounds like you're not cutting any corners mate. All you really need are the Wossners, SPTurbo head and cams, GT35R turbo, a good map in that Emerald of yours and you will be well on your way to 600+ hp.......if the gearbox can take it ;-)
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83mm Wossner 8:1s :-) With the VW steel gasket, you get 8.5:1 ;-) Gives you 2937cc. I wouldn't waste your money on crank work mate. VW did a good job on the balancing it at the factory, although if you wanted to, you could balance the crank and the flywheel/clutch as one unit. Very time consuming though. I've never checked, but if the VR6's crank throw is well above the oil level, I personally wouldn't bother knife edging it. You won't see much of a gain for the outlay. Stock rods are OK up to 500ish. The Crower rods Bill Schimmel sell are proven to hold 800whp and good value at $9
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They give a stronger spark than than the standard coilpack, which means you can open up the plug gaps and get a better burn on boost. There's nothing wrong with the stock coilpack though. It's been proven to handle 25+psi of boost no trouble. The MSDs just make it run (and idle) a bit smoother and crisper, but they're not essential. Cost with the Gruven parts bracket etc was close to that of a replacement stock coilpack from VW! But the coils themselves aren't that expensive, about £30 each. They can be a bit unreliable though, so I'd only recommend them if you run into spark related prob
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Thought I'd wake this thread up again. I've fixed all the dead image links, so it's a proper guide (of sorts) again! I'll throw in some updates too whilst I'm here as it's been a while! When my 2.9 and a bit block was built, I decided to return the oil to the block, rather than the sump. It's a more direct, shorter path back and is above the driveshaft level, so acres of clearance. Here's how you do it. Start of with a 23/32" drill and you'll need a 1/2" pipe tap to cut the thread. The fitting is a 1/2" NPT to -10 JIC/AN 45 degree. Life in the turbo lane isn't without it's faults.
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Finally sorted some image hosting out, so here's mine. Done on stealth's dyno last year. 2 runs overlaid. Engine spec in my signature. They're not perfect by any means, but I am quite proud of them because it's a map I did myself on the road. Both power and torque holding well in the higher rpms. Not bad for a two box 2.5" exhaust and 11psi ;-) Power - Torque -
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I use Dynotune gauges mate. Only got this pic which is my EGT guage, The boost guage is in one of the blanking plugs to the left of the clocks out of shot unfortunately.
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That's not true. I've seen several VR6 engines with completely f'cked tensioners and the owner assumed they were fine because there was no rattling. That is the kind of misinformation that appears in the magazine buying guides. Visual inspection is the ONLY way to be sure.
