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mightyvr6

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Everything posted by mightyvr6

  1. the engine speed sensor code disappears when it's started. sounds like the cam sensor is knackered or possibly the wiring. This code shouldn't show up with the engine off. vag-com should tell you which abs sensor is out.
  2. probably about 110-20. It's quite a hill although it is pretty much flat out. Another fast section is flugplatz, before the foxhole where you can reach 120-30.
  3. You'll probably manage 130 mph on the final staight but probably less than that as it's restricted.
  4. there fine until they start warping. OE are made of much better steel and will take more punishment.
  5. Not sure on the size but it says 113 on the belt if that means anything. nsracing sell them for £25 are the teeth on your impeller pulley a bit worn?
  6. The gearbox and driveshafts can handle up to and probably beyond 300 bhp thanks to German over-engineering and anyway it's torque which breaks gearboxes. I'm sure the engine can handle the relatively modest levels of torque a charger produces. The power of the supercharger is progressive which helps limit the strain put on these components and means that traction isn't a huge issue. You'd be amazed what difference good tyres make. The current supercharger kits are designed to run on a standard engine. No need to change the headgasket, pistons etc. You'd only consider that if you blew the engin
  7. about £2500 for the Vf-Eng kit Stage 1 should give you 260 bhp FI is definitely the way to go for a decent power increase. Forget schrick manifold and cams etc. waste of money, go straight for the charger.
  8. the filter should be fine unless it is submerged in water, then you risk hydrolocking the engine. Mine has lived there for a ages without any problems.
  9. Porting and polishing doesn't seem to do much on a vr6. What you want is a big valve head.
  10. headgasket? This would cause an oil loss and white smoke.
  11. get the mk 4 solid polymer upper tensioner and bolt and change the oil cooler seals and thermostat/housing/seals.
  12. It can be fixed with the engine in place but you have to remove the engine mount bolts so the engine can be jacked up enough to access the pump. The main pump costs about £20.
  13. yes, zip tie it to something of shove it into the hole in the chassis rail.
  14. There's another thread on the forum about this: Basically it absorbs petrol fumes from the tank and engine. It is for emissions; to prevent fumes entering the atmosphere which may harm the environment.
  15. block off the one from the TB. Vent the one which follows the fuel lines, which goes to the tank.
  16. I haven't got mine plugged in either, without any problems. Think it was designed like that for the American market. [ Edited Wed Jul 07 2004, 12:15AM ]
  17. it does bugger all, so rip it out and it won't fail the mot either.
  18. for anyone who is going or is interested, check out ben lovejoy's nurburgring website for all the relevant info. [ Edited Mon Jul 05 2004, 10:04PM ]
  19. the noise is the pump priming when the ignition is switched on. If it continues to whine you could have a blocked fuel filter, putting strain on the pump or the pump itself might be on the way out although they do get noisier with age.
  20. how about some very slippery gearbox oil?
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