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mightyvr6

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Everything posted by mightyvr6

  1. mightyvr6
    what's so special about the neuspeed thermostat?
  2. mightyvr6
    give the isv a good spray with carb cleaner engine speed sensor (crank sensor?) gives a fault code (no signal) if the engine isn't switched on. I'd put a new thermostat housing on as they have a habit of cracking. The housing is in 3 pieces so you could just replace the damaged piece. [ Edited Mon Jun 21 2004, 07:08PM ]
  3. mightyvr6
    He might have recommended the vgi and 268s but think he wouldn't recommend 268 cams in combination with a charger as well... ...but you can keep the 268s on with the charger, if you want to lose boost and have less power.
  4. mightyvr6
    The vf stage 1 is a vortech v2 sq running 6 psi boost. It does take 8 hours to install as the charger is oil fed - oil feed line/return line has to be fitted and the sump tapped etc. The z-kit takes half the time as it doesn't have any oil lines- bearings spin in a bath of oil. The chip won't be mapped for cams and vgi and 268s won't be compatible with a charger.
  5. mightyvr6
    Looks like the switch is at 4k, hence the momentary loss in power as the flap switches.
  6. mightyvr6
    Nice one Jules.
  7. mightyvr6
    i think the information on the chip is simply reproduced on a new chip although some chips may be protected against copying
  8. mightyvr6
    the charger acts as an oil cooler but it's still worth getting one if you do a lot of track days.
  9. mightyvr6
    use a samco joining pipe, trimmed to fit.
  10. mightyvr6
    can't remember, probably less than 1/2 inch, but the intake boot is flexible.
  11. mightyvr6
    it moves it closer to the exhaust manifold
  12. mightyvr6
    You can buy oil cooler kits from www.thinkauto.com (mocal)
  13. mightyvr6
    that's the ecu which controls fan speeds
  14. mightyvr6
    turn 2 do a cai kit for the mrk3 like the aem kit which deletes the carbon canister and puts the filter under the wing.
  15. mightyvr6
    obd 1 has coilpack as well but think the ecus are different
  16. mightyvr6
    A good way of bidding, is to open 3 windows and log in to your ebay account in each window and put three different amounts in each eg. 20, 30, 40. When there's 20 seconds of bidding time left, bid the lowest amount and if someone has outbid you, press the next highest bid in the second window you've already prepared, then the third if necessary. Then you'll win every time!
  17. mightyvr6
    The cam tool was from vw. Some vw agents are more helpful than others.
  18. mightyvr6
    you can swap back to your standard cams if you want to go FI. Schrick manifold for your low down power and a centrifugal supercharger for high revs power, the perfect combination.
  19. mightyvr6
    I'd get all the tests done first to confirm, could be a cylinder head problem. Bore wear is more common on the 2.9 unit but 2.8 does suffer too. If the block is worn you've got the option of an overbore to 2.9/3.0 which is big money or picking up a second hand block/engine. The later is probably the cheaper option or you could leave it if compression is still reasonable.
  20. mightyvr6
    maf, cam sensor or another engine sensor?
  21. mightyvr6
    I'd buy a turn 2 induction kit so the air filter sees some cold air.
  22. mightyvr6
    Not sure (a mate gave it to me when he sold his vr6) but can't be that much. It's just a bit of plastic with a couple of holes in it.
  23. mightyvr6
    part no. VLC 21-203
  24. mightyvr6
    Pull spark plugs 1 and 6 and check for oily deposits. If they are oily black instead of light grey you could well have bore ovalisation.
  25. mightyvr6
    I've got the vw cam timing tool and can post the part number.
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