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mightyvr6

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Everything posted by mightyvr6

  1. mightyvr6
    hopefully about 10bhp......if your lucky
  2. mightyvr6
    Get a genuine gasket from VW or if you buy from gsf/europarts etc. make sure it is a victor reinze. If it's an elring gasket it won't last. I've just done a bit of research and the last word on metal gaskets is that they are thinner and raise the comp ratio so go with a standard gasket.
  3. mightyvr6
    whats the best way of reducing transmission losses? does changing the gearbox oil help?
  4. mightyvr6
    If a metal gasket raises the compression, use a standard victor reinze gasket and some decent head studs.
  5. mightyvr6
    MrkIV gasket has a different part no: 021 103 383 N (12v) It raises compression as it's thinner than the standard 12V gasket. [ Edited Fri Jul 02 2004, 08:25PM ]
  6. mightyvr6
    metal 12v head gasket part no. = 021 103 383L Used to cost £50 but you can buy the headset which includes all the top end gaskets for about £80.
  7. mightyvr6
    I'm sure VW do a metal headgasket for a 12v VR6. I've got the part no. somewhere which I'll post. Yes, you don't want a mk 4 gasket as it raises the compression. You want to lower it if anything.
  8. mightyvr6
    Chargers and dasteks don't mix too well according to my information as their fueling parameters are too restricted.
  9. mightyvr6
    Nice increase. Isn't chain guide held by 3 bolts?
  10. mightyvr6
    NS Racing or get in touch with Z-Eng : www.z-engineering.com Btw who did you buy the charger off?
  11. mightyvr6
    The current supercharger kits are designed to be used on standard engines and you can probably run up to 10 psi without using a spacer. Most of the time they are only running at low boost, so a healthy engine can cope with this all day as long as the head gasket is ok and the chip is properly mapped.
  12. mightyvr6
    for a while.....
  13. mightyvr6
    The supercharger is much better value imo. You can get 250+ hp and 235+ torque. The work you've had done must have cost £2k+ which is the cost of a charger. I think many schrick owners from the group buy would feel sick if they'd paid the full price
  14. mightyvr6
    the plug on the slave cylinder in the 2nd to last pic is the pedal position sensor (for the abs- it tells the abs ecu how much braking force to apply)
  15. mightyvr6
    engine speed (crank) sensor is on the front of the block, below the oil filter housing. If this wasn't working the engine wouldn't run at all. airlock in the fuel line? Plug lead which isn't seated on a a plug? [ Edited Tue Jun 29 2004, 08:11PM ]
  16. mightyvr6
    you need spline keys for the drive shafts, 8mm I think. The second picture is the idle stabiliser valve and isv damper. You don't really want to replace this with a mini filter as oil will drop onto the exhaust manifold and the car will stink of oil vapour inside.
  17. mightyvr6
    the engine speed sensor isn't the cam sensor.
  18. mightyvr6
    it would stutter if it was the cam sensor or do you mean the engine sensor?
  19. mightyvr6
    hear hear!
  20. mightyvr6
    at 3500-4000 it's not producing much boost anyway, so there's little stress on the flap.
  21. mightyvr6
    i think the flap can take it since it's wide open on full boost but some have put loctite on the nuts to stop them coming loose.
  22. mightyvr6
    why are they illegal? You can buy them with a yellow background and euro GB.
  23. mightyvr6
    You could get the german plates with the euro GB, look like no.2 but they are pressed metal and much nicer.
  24. mightyvr6
    Yes you might be right there, the maf expects a linear flow and turbulent air causes havoc with the readings and the ecu doesn't know if to add more fuel or hold back.
  25. mightyvr6
    Might have to get a socket fitted in the ecu if your management chip is soldered onto the circuit board/unless it is plug and play already. the chip is mapped for a standard engine + supercharger (not for the vgi/cams) so is probably useless anyway unless you put the standard cams back in.
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