apd
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Everything posted by apd
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LMFAO Tommy. some of us are just sharing thier experiences/knowledge to aid others.wether it be intentional or not some up us need to be exacting with references.
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i'd deffo try bumping it just for the process of elimination.as you're bypassing start up.
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8+16V are 3bar pumps,VR6 is 4bar wether it be corr,vento,golf.the system drops 1/2 of a bar by the time it hits the fuel pressure reg.i tryed an 8V pump when my pump packed up-ran like shite.on a rr power graph it highlighted a flat spot @ 3000rpm,the 3bar pump could not sustain the proper pressure.picked the pump up for 40quid 2nd hand.
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If you have cranked it with the fuel lines off,but with the electrics plugged in it should pump all day!If not try replacing relay 167[fuel pump].if it does not pump petrol the pumps fucked.Anyway on crank the pump buzzez to prime system.
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2k revs is enough on set off,just grips and goes.our vr's need a couple of miles long straight,and not 200yds.the nova boys feel smug that they've kept up with you! with a 250bhp charger on has the vr moved up a level or two?boxter,evo,scooby arse kicker?
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my vr had an intermittent loss of power,changed 109 relay 11 quid at vw.cleaned all wiring connections to c/pack and crank sensor[gunked].now sweet.
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It will not av been the grey one that Mina owned though,was it?????????
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you might diss it but,could you get a SkylineR33GTIR V spec for 12k.a proper toy!
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is the crank sensor the one that is white and near the front engine mount coz i've cleaned it-see how it goes?gunner take another look at the hall sender in the coilpack tomorrow and wiring around it.only gunner change the hall sender in the coilpack as a last resort,got an old unit.cheers andy for your advice.
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could the TDC sensor be faulty,if it does not know where it's start position is it will not spark?had TDC in fault memory about 6 months ago,is it worth cleaning?
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performance always spot on,immob checked by installer-ok.no spark promotes hallsender not sending signal to fire up?got mi old c/pack,so gunner take out hall sender and put it in new one?once the vr's been bumped runs/starts ok for a week or 2,the mind boggle?
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checked for spark when vr won't start-no spark!
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right here goes!had a intermitent fault for a while now.once a week vr fails to fire up.turns over fine,but sometimes get that click click on the key.the vr will bump start every time.changed c/pack,leads,plugs,starter motor,fuel pump,relays167,109,18. Been on vag com-fault in ecu memory 00515 030 hall sender-G40.open/short circuit to positive,sporadic fault. since the starter motor went on no click click.cleaned and checked all connections from hall sender to battery and ecu.any advice guys?
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Binliner:when the g/f insists on driving on the m.way and i can knock some zzzzzzzz's out!
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25-30 around town.long runs at 80-90mph on m-way gives around 32mpg.if i do a long run at 50-60mph i get 35-38mpg.this seems better than most,but the vr is standard and running ok.checked the figures and they do add up?
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288 disks would foul the original 15s,as disks are shagged i'll fit new disks and pads all round to improve heavy braking at speed.
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so without sounding stupid,if you've got a 94M [280mm disks].to upgrade to the later system all i would need is 288mm disks and pads to match,without the calipers?
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do you agree the grin factor gets bigger when you hit 4000rpm in 2nd,3rd,4th and 5th?
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blackburner:see my post on thermostat housing,cured my leak.a couple of quid is better than 80!
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no pic,but its under the coilpack.the pipework from the waterpump goes into it.it has 3 rounded ends with 2 plug ins.ones the thermostat plug in,the others the temp sender and ones a dummy end.does that explain it?
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mine closes both windows and the roof with the key in both doors,on some vrs is the master the drivers door?
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thanks for the info.thought sod it and put some BURNS TURDS in,seemed to have done the trick=no leaks.I think it's that northern idle git mentality.
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Seems difficult to get any purchase on the allenkey bolt at the back off the housing towards the bulk head?too many pipes in the way with spring clips on them.the only idea i can think off is to use a hex head in a universal joint mated to a flexidrive.The leak is minimal so would some kind of addative in the coolant that seals when meets atmospheric pressure[air]just be a short term measure.Any advice would be appeciated.Cheers.
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Andy try changing relay 109[voltage stabliser relay].mine was cracked on the soldered joints when i took it to bits.no misfires-just clean power delivery.Seems to be part of the circuit for the hall sender.hope this helps.
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part no: 1HO 121 101 Q.This is the serial no. actually on where the t- piece joins.Mines a 94M,coilpack,AAA engine.Looks like the whole thing is 1 unit.hope this helps.