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jcorallo

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Everything posted by jcorallo

  1. jcorallo
    Ok guys - can someone tell me what the point is of these units? I got two lots of 3 points within a week which cost me £80 in all and a bit extra on my insurance. (5 years ago). Having 6 points on my license was much better than having some un-reliable shitty bit of electronics stuck to my dash - I NEVER SPEEDED AFTER THIS!!!! Hey presto - no points in the last 5 years!!! Jules [ Edited Thu May 05 2005, 10:51PM ]
  2. jcorallo
    The plastic ones are OK if you are working on a stone cold engine - but unless you can wait the couple of hours after you switch the engine off, you'll ruin the tool very quickly... No such probs with a metal one. Jules
  3. jcorallo
    How are you going to control the variable cam timing with the Corrado ECU? ..and the variable inlet manifold ...and all the other gizmos? If I was doing it, I'd be starting with the 24v ECU + complete engine loom and working backwards. Mind you, I'm no electronics guru, so thats just the easy way out... Jules [ Edited Fri Mar 18 2005, 11:44PM ]
  4. jcorallo
    Whoa - eBay selling oil!! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=43120&item=7959811083&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=72205&item=7960627530&rd=1 Jules
  5. jcorallo
    yeah - I know people slag Halfords off for selling neon lights for your car etc, but they are handy if you need summut on a Sunday - like a rear wheel bearing for instance. Very handy. But they have started to get expensive. So gotta be thrifty now. Woolies eh? Will have to take a trip down! Theres a few independant shops I know so I'll be giving them my trade - as long as they are cheaper... Wonder if you can get it cheap off the net somewhere? Jules
  6. jcorallo
    I normally buy my engine oil from Halfords. I used to get the Halfords own brand 0w-40 fully synthetic - which I'm sure used to be cheap - dunno - maybe I bought it in a sale period or something - I'm sure it used to be about £20 for 5L.... Went in tonight to pick some up and its up at bloody £29 - which was not much cheaper than the branded stuff like Castrol or the like... which was around £31.... So I came out and got to thinking - now that Halfords has gone all expensive - where else can I buy cheap yet good oil from? I couldnt think of anywhere.... Put some petrol in at Tescos, and picked
  7. jcorallo
    Assuming they've used VW prices, I guess this is about right. A full service, together with new exhaust and brakes from a VW garage would cost a bomb - about £1170 no doubts.... Theres prob about a full days (7 hours?) labour in there you know...@£75p/h Jules [ Edited Fri Mar 11 2005, 02:09PM ]
  8. jcorallo
    heh - just read that guys bad feedback from the last 6 months - he sold an item for £0.01 and charged £2.55 p+p - but then he put the item in the post without paying for the postage - which means the person who recieved it would have had to pay Royal Mail for the pleasure of getting it from them!! Wot a tw@t!!!!! Gotta watch it with eBay.... Jules
  9. jcorallo
    We should all email him via the ebay site, asking if it will fit a VR6...... .....and another thing - anyone who starts the item description with the words "Here we have..." should be taken outside and shot!!! ...and then shot again if the description is ALL IN CAPITALS!! (I'll get me coat...!) Jules [ Edited Thu Feb 24 2005, 09:07PM ]
  10. jcorallo
    LOL! Ha thats so funny!! For you guys who've never seen what these tiny cars are trying to emulate, I uploaded a clip to my web space for yuz (only 1.3Mb so 56k friendly!): http://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/jcorallo/Nissan_Skyline_R34_vs_S15_drifting.wmv Those crazy Japs!! Quality! Jules [ Edited Sat Jan 29 2005, 05:04PM ]
  11. jcorallo
    Justin mate! Long time no see. I went through this.... I notice you have the old style carbon intake pipes, yet a newer ZR2 cogged charger - which could indicate that the charger has been upgraded from a ZR1 but not the chip (early kits came with carbon fibre pipes, later ones came with samco). The original ZR1 from z-eng was only meant to make 220-225bhp - which was 50bhp above normal. When the ZR2 came out, people (including me) just swapped the new charger in, but did nothing about the chip (cos I didnt know any better then) - and the car still only made the same HP. Long and short of it is
  12. jcorallo
    knock sounds like a jingly jingling... like the sound of a dice rattling round in a tea cup. Jules
  13. jcorallo
    a Jumper is just a piece of wire used to bridge two electrical terminals - so any old wire will do. You should know however, that the blink code method wont work on a UK spec OBD1's - we dont have the "Check Engine" light in the dash - so there is nothing to blink! :@ Jules [ Edited Tue Jan 18 2005, 04:12PM ]
  14. jcorallo
    1) Supercharger - http://www.vf-engineering.com/vw_index.htm 2) Turbo - http://vwturbo.com/products/turbomatrix.asp ... Jules
  15. jcorallo

    Top Gear Cars

    jcorallo replied to RALA's topic in General Chat

    God you lot are so predictable!! How about something a little more unusual - did no-one see that Mosler beat the kak out of the Ducati round the track? http://www.moslerauto.com/ Jules
  16. jcorallo
    [ Edited Fri Dec 24 2004, 12:56PM ]
  17. jcorallo
    ahh yes - you'll need to swap the 2.9 harness onto the 2.8 engine (very easy). The only difference is the distributor connection. You'll thus keep the Corrado ECU in the car as normal - you wont have to touch the car electrics, just the engine. Note: both engines need to be OBD1 - You can visually see if the connectors look the same between engines before you begin. Jules
  18. jcorallo
    its fine - remove the old 2.8 cam position sensor from cam sprocket and swap in the pronged distrbutor drive fork on the end of the cam. Use the 2.9 cam end cover and it all bolts up nicely. Jules
  19. jcorallo
    I normally browse the General Chat and Engines sections - this is what I get when I try and open the links: Server Error The following error occurred: The server closed the connection while reading the response. Contact your system administrator.Please contact the administrator.[/b] The topic lists normally come through on maybe the 2nd or 3rd attempt, but today, it was taking about 10 reload attempts to be able to get to the topics inside the sections..... Jules [ Edited ]
  20. jcorallo
    The little bunch of wire wool stuff is meant to function as a flame trap. I've tried one of those little K&N filters on the engine breather, and to be honest they really arent worth the effort. For a start, you will get oil dripping all down the back of the engine and onto the number one plug lead. Secondly, you'll get the nasty stinky oil smells coming into the car when stopped in traffic - I found I couldnt have the air blower / heater on when stopped in traffic, otherwise I would have gassed myself..... Jules
  21. jcorallo
    If you are talking about the metal portion of the pipe, quite a few small specialist car spares shops can make up metal brake/clutch pipes to order. You just tell them the length and which fittings to install on the ends. Or you could just take the old one in and they would copy it for you. Jules
  22. jcorallo
    You can get any good exhaust specialist to fab up a flanged replacement for the sliding joint part at the back of the cat. Thats the hardest bit to get off especially if its been together for a while. I had one made up - and changing the cat was a breeze after that - just a total of 5 bolts and the lambda probe, and off it came. Jules
  23. jcorallo
    ok - just read your sig - 3.0 litre and I'm assuming you've got cams right? I assume this is how you got 227bhp? Do you have a Big Valve Head? If so, the chip you got with the kit is unsuitable - and is most likely the reason you damaged the gasket........ The charger kit including the supplied chip is available for either a standard 2.8 or standard 2.9 engine.... with standard cams, standard cylinder capacity and standard compression. Its meant to be plug and play. So even just going to 3.0litre means you cant use the chip. If you engine has anything internal that sets it appart from a stock
  24. jcorallo
    Well, it is recommended that you re-torque the ARP head studs after a few hundred miles. This could be a possibility as to why it could have weeped.... I think I did mine to 65lb/ft and left it at that (no more or you'll squish the head!). Jules
  25. jcorallo
    yep - but dont forget that lowering compression will obsolete the ECU chip... the car will still run Ok-ish, but not at its best, £500 handed over to Stealth and Mr AMD with his box of tricks will sort you out. Jules
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