its on the motorway where the vr6 comes to life...it really is amazingly fast, but in a very relaxed way. personally i'm not that happy with it around town, its hard work. i prefer driving the girlies 1.6 8v polo around town actually...i think i need a schrik badly.
ok, thats fair...i'll just say that my comments are my opinion too. ventura springs are rebadged eibach i believe...and they were (and maybe still are) available form vw sort of as an option (kind of like irmscher stuff is on vauxhalls). on your rough starting, it could be a nuber of things. if your car is OBD1 (upto N plate) may be worth cleaning the ISV. i'd also check the leads are all pushed on correctly, if not you need to get vag-com plugged in and check for fault codes.
yep...i've learnt its alwasy the first thing to do if theres a prob. these vr6's are very very complicated elctronically and you just can't fix them through trial and error. oh, whilst on subject of vag-com, anyone know where i can get an OBD1 adapter cheapest? (it plugs into the obd2 lead)
have you had the fault codes checked? (make sure they get cleared and then rechecked) if that comes up with nothing then it means its either leads, plugs, or coilpack AFAIK they are the only things that wont show on a diagnostics.
150...that crazy. why on earth did you keep driving? didn't the flashing red light on the dash make you think you should stop. headgaskets usually die between 110-120. i'll be amazed if you got away without damamging anything.
you're takin the word of max power?! lmao they don't give as good an improvement as a full kit, thats for sure. but the ride will be better, and Gmax springs are designed for o.e. dampers anyway. on some cars it can be a bad idea to use just springs as, due to the different suspension set up, the springs can disclocate as the dampers are too long.
almost any garage should fit them for you. it isn't that hard yourself (spring compressors are needed tho) if you have a haynes manual. either way, make sure you get the camber reset afterwards, chances are it'll go out.
its almost impossible to say the precise drop when you fit the springs... my chassis dynamics (claiming to be -35mm lowering) seemed to lower the front about 50mm, and the rear only about 10mm. where as my bilstein (claims -40mm lower) seems to have droppped the lot about 60mm. more likely than not the car will be a bit more nose down with just springs. it won't look slammed on the deck, but will look nice (i prefer mild drops to huge ones...think the car looks to chav if its on the deck). as binliner says, dont go more than -40mm on just springs. if you wanna go lower you'll have to sacrific
you have to click on a different part...the diagram includes parts for earlier and later cars...but if you try and click on the late bits on early cars you get part unknown, and if you try clicking on the earlier parts on a later car you get unknown! (hope you understand that)
koni/eibach & bilstein sprintline won't give you the ride you want....but will make the car handle and grip superbly. i'd be inclined to go for gmax springs on new o.e. dampers (boge from gsf will be fine - i have some year old rears by the way) if you want looks and ride. won't corner as well, but i've yet to be in a gmax equipt car (and i've been in lots) and feel harshness (haven't experienced their dampers though - but they do state ride quality is one of their prioritys). my car had nice ride on its chassis dynamics/o.e. dampers set up.
ok, you should have.... 8x N014 545 2 (short studs) 2x N102 771 01 (long studs) 10x N901 752 03 (nuts) you were prob still looking at a later car rich, i got those numbers from a '93 car...which all have alu cam covers (changed to plastic in the mid '95 obd2 changeover i think).
the misfire could be a number of things, from old fuel filter through to hall sender. best to check leads/filters/plugs first, then get the fault codes checked if it still persists.