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acf8181

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Everything posted by acf8181

  1. no point making them stand out unless they are something worth showing off about...such as brembo's. paint them black. [ Edited Thu May 27 2004, 12:12AM ]
  2. for £70 you can get a vibra techs ones from amd, which is what i'd go for (and will when i have the money)
  3. could be any of the above, or old fuel filter, leads, plugs...best thing to do is get the diagnostics checked for fault codes. this will hopefully point out which it is.
  4. i'd have said remove the bulb...but kilokilla is a very clever man!
  5. yep, powerflex no their stuff, but always specifiy its for a plus axle (the normal axle has different bushes). i tend to work it out from this page before ordering so i can double check...http://www.powerflex.co.uk/products.asp?cat=0037&catalog=0237 biggest things to be careful of..make sure you have kit PFF85-204 for rear of front wishbone, and PFR85-206 for rear beam
  6. never used either of those. what i can tell you is that michelin pilot sports are way too hard and are poor in the wet. however pilot SX GT's aren't too bad. but my fav tyre is the uniroyal rallye 540 (just bought two brand new ones...yum)...excellent in dry, awesome in wet.
  7. this should help (tells centre bores and PCD's as well)...http://www.tyresave.co.uk/fitment.html#VOLK
  8. what about camber? quite possible thats not been set up after the suspension was done. not many places have the equiptment.
  9. well, you need to separate the box from the engine to do the runners, so you may as well do the whole lot. think the parts come to about a £100...needs doin around 100k really (and i believe your engine is coming from a 107k car), so nows the time to do it. when the engines out. havin said that, i'm playin russion ruellette (sp?) with mine...one of the runners is damaged but i simply can't afford to fix it at the mo.
  10. they are firmer than o.e. i don't find it too bad, but if you have really hard suspension anyway it may be too much. can't you soften up your coilovers to compensate? worth remembering that if you go for o.e. you won't be able to do it yourself as they require a special clamping tool that, i suspect, only dealers have. so will cost a lot more. i believe o.e. bushes cost about the same as powerflex ones too.
  11. sounds like theres deffo something wrong in the near side front corner. could be a wishbone bush...get it checked out.
  12. i'd change the timing chains and tensioners while you have it out the car (en route to the mkIII) if i were you. best time to do it.
  13. i've yet to find any alternatice to powerflex...no one else does them for the vr6. they do give a bit more road noise and stiffen things up a tad, but its not that big a deal.
  14. i'm presuming you mean rear beam bushes, and not the raer bushes in the front wishbone... well, unless you go for poly bushes then you have to have a proper vice to put them in. so i'd go for powerflex bushes (make sure you get the correct ones, theres two different ones for mkIII's - one for plus axle (5 stud), one for non-plus/noram axle (4 stud)...also worth noting that theres another poly bush manufacturer called polysport (supllied by rally design)...but don't buy them as they dont do the plus axle bushes (despite sayin they do), as i found out). also, its worth allowing the cost of a new
  15. well, will make it easier to get to the rear engine mount if you wanna change that. thats about it really.
  16. bumpstops definatly..you'll probably find yours are in a bad way. i'd just get standard ones. also theres the rubber bit in the top mount, thats worth chaging, again stick with o.e. vw ones. if you want to go further you could change your wishbone and rear beam bushes...but theres a lot more work to do and its not really anything to do with the front strut, and won't cost any different if you get it done now, or get it done later. [ Edited Fri May 21 2004, 10:00PM ]
  17. i would, but my cars on axle stands so it'll be different.
  18. it'll moves from side to side at the front because the roads aren't perfect and one tyre picks up grip (or looses some grip) at one point, where as the other doesn't and vice versa. so the abs is constantly adjusting and compensating for it.
  19. yeah, i'd have thought so. i'd also avoid gettin spacers that aren't specifically designed for your car, as i believe vw's are hubcentric...which means that the hub carries some of the load...if you get the wrong spacers it won't be and all the load will be going on the wheel nuts, which could well fail!
  20. yep...millions of stone chips, and a couple of parking dents...also have damage to rear bumper and below light, where previous owner was a dork.
  21. er...you're not supposed to brake hard and turn at the same time really. its physics...when you brake the centre of gravity goes to the front of the car, thus making the rear end 'light' if you then turn the rear will of course then step out as theres proportionally loads more front end grip than rear. every car will do it. your abs will catch it before you spin, but you will get a certain amount sideways before it does...just as if you lock the fronts and turn it would understeer a bit before the abs kicks in. if they set up the abs so it doesn't allow any lock up the car would be impossible
  22. just to add to my above comments...if its locking up cause you've disconnected the abs, it could mean theres nothing worng with it, some cars that have abs are dsigned to have a lot of rear bias (as it'll enable the car to stop quicker, but you won't have probs with loosing it under braking cause the abs scoops it up)
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