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wardycatt

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Everything posted by wardycatt

  1. wardycatt
    I replaced my faulty PCV with a catch can, but then ditched that and went back to the PCV. Therefore I'd recommend replacing the PCV with a new one - it will probably outlive the car and doesn't have to be periodically emptied. It's also the way VW intended your car to be, and there's no performance upgrade to be gained from the catch can. If you're venting to atmosphere / using a catch can (with no breather) then I think you need to block the skinny breather pipe going into the top of the PCV or you'll get a rough idle. No idea what impact it has on MOT, but my advice is buy a new PCV if po
  2. wardycatt
    I've got PTSD just thinking about the dash removal again. Have fun.
  3. wardycatt
    chewtown If you mean removing the headlight or foglight, it's a two minute job either way - well worth doing it properly if you want good (lasting) results, and I reckon removal will give better results than doing it in situ. If you mean tinting the inside of the lens (not sure about the wisdom of this), then it's headlight baking time. 160oC for about 7-10 mins, a little salt and pepper, bon apetit! Foglights will take less time. Give them 2-3 mins to start, then check every minute until the glue starts to give. Don't pry too hard or you'll definitely crack the lens. Some films might b
  4. wardycatt
    Any idea how that causes it to stall? Just out of interest. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. wardycatt
    I'm no expert, but I think the oil is a red herring here. I can't see how that would periodically affect your idle. It's most likely some sort of sensor-related issue in my opinion. Idle control valve, MAF etc...
  6. wardycatt
    I bought a few bits from Howling Mad Murdoch recently. Everything was well packed and as described. The deal went smoothly and I'm happy with all the parts.
  7. wardycatt
    I bought a plastic moulding from MJ VR6 recently. Everything went as planned - item arrived well packed and in good time.
  8. wardycatt
    I bought a window regulator from Dopeydean a few months back. The item arrived as described and in good time.
  9. wardycatt
    I bought brake calipers and disks from Shawy at the start of the year. The items arrived quickly, were well packed and I'm generally happy all round.
  10. wardycatt
    That saves a bit of time then. I wonder if you could do a similar thing on the passenger side by taking the airbag out. My problem was a small crack in the bodywork near the passenger side bonnet mount.
  11. wardycatt
    Unless anyone knows a trick, I suspect you're going to have to take your dash off to get a the part that's disconnected. I'm taking my dash off now for this very reason. These sunroof drains are a PITA.
  12. wardycatt
    In my opinion, you shouldn't use a catch tank. On the face of it, they are cheaper (depends on model) and will do the job just fine. You can also get a one that's colour coded to your car and looks cool. However, the cheap-ass ones from eBay come with terrible fixtures and fittings. By the time you've got decent hoses and connectors for it, plus the hassle of finding a place for it to go, plus the hassle of having to empty it periodically.... just use the PCV! There is no performance increase from using a catch can. I installed a catch tank, but have now went back to a PCV setup. As previ
  13. wardycatt
    I wouldn't chance driving the car in its current condition. You should tow it to the garage. As for the cause, doesn't this just sound like the age-old tensioner pulley problem? These things fail all the time (many posts on here discussing it). I bought a replacement pulley wheel for the tensioner and a new belt, the repair cost me about £20 and took less than an hour as far as I can remember. You'll need a long M8 bolt as well. I know its probably sacrilege to post a link from another VW site, but here's a how to guide that may prove useful: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.ph
  14. wardycatt
    Thanks for the replies. I've been thinking about the thermostat, and the potential for it being stuck open. Going to check that. Lukey - Since the problem only recently developed (it's been fine for two years), I don't think that's the cause... but if I'm going to potentially replace the thermostat in the next week anyway, what are the benefits (if any) of a low temperature 'stat? Is it of more use with forced induction models (which I assume get up to higher temperatures) or would my bog-standard motor benefit at all?
  15. wardycatt
    My car doesn't ever seem to get up to temperature these last few weeks. Under normal circumstances, it would get to 90oC and stay there. It now gets to about 75-80oC and stays there. It doesn't matter what I do - razz the life out the car, sit idle in a traffic jam, have the heaters full on / off - the temperature does still move up and down a bit, but won't ever get above 80oC (apparently). The car's running absolutely fine otherwise. It's not using any more coolant than normal or anything. I'm going to check the coolant temperature sender this weekend - but does anyone have any a
  16. wardycatt
    ^^^^^ Coil pack ^^^^^ A few other quick suggestions (before the boss nabs me for skiving): * check the PCV again. If the small vacuum line connected to that is split or loose then you can get a lumpy idle. * check the MAF - unplug it and see what happens. If no change to lumpiness when you remove and/or re-insert it, you may have your culprit. * give the cam sensor a clean as well - once you have the coil pack off, it would be rude not to :-) It sounds like you've covered a few other likely culprits, e.g. leads and plugs. And whilst we're at it, how's the health of your batter
  17. wardycatt
    Better late than never, here's a link to the part you need: and the eBay item number : 360469359826
  18. wardycatt
    My feeling is, if your engine had simply been suffering from prolonged storage you would be OK (the coke trick is worth remembering, good shout). But the issues are starting to mount up, and you have to wonder what sort of life the engine's had, who's fixed it (and to what standard) and why it was put into storage in the first place? Credit to anyone who mends things instead of replacing them, but I would be tempted to just turn it into a Top Gear-style coffee table.
  19. wardycatt
    Cool, thanks.
  20. wardycatt
    Whilst we're on the subject of braided hoses for 312mm upgrades, am I right in thinking that I need the banjo-type connector for my Mk3 Golf (1997 model, OBD2)? The corresponding Goodridge part number is: SVW0607-4P
  21. wardycatt
    Yes - but the Golf Mk3 is a 2.8 12v, the Corrado is a 2.9 12v.
  22. wardycatt
    @NPCS - Different people on here have reported various results. Some say it does next to nothing, others claim significantly improved stopping power. Personally I think there should be some noticeable improvement (otherwise I wouldn't be in the process of doing this upgrade myself), but I don't expect to go through the windscreen when I stamp on the brakes with 312mm disks. It's difficult to say precisely what the difference is unless you conduct a properly scientific experiment. For example, if you upgrade to the 312mm calipers, you may change your brake fluid in the process. If the exis
  23. wardycatt
    @Ickyketseddie: Any chance I could have a copy of this? Pretty pleeeeeaasse? I've got both the Haynes manual (for Mk3 Golf generally) and an engine manual by "Peter Russek" (specifically for VR6 engines) - the latter is highly recommended. An ideal stocking filler for any self-respecting VR6 owner :-) However, judging by previous posts the Bentley manual is the daddy. So if I could scrounge it that would be great...I'm not doing anything to dispel the tight-fisted Scotsman stereotype.
  24. wardycatt
    Name: VW Golf Mk3 (1997) Date Added: 02 December 2013 - 12:01 AM Owner: wardycatt Short Description: A fairly standard Mk3 Golf, with the following modifications:16" dark grey rims, stainless exhaust, air intake, remapped, coilovers View Vehicle
  25. wardycatt
    It's still good ol' Top Gear, but the format is getting a little bit tired. I'm fed up of the fake races to be honest. "We just travelled 10,000 miles. Hammond's in a tractor and Jezza's got a Bugatti Veyron. Amazingly we finished within a couple of minutes of each other" ...aye, right! The cross-country challenges are better (e.g. Africa / South America specials), but my favourites are the ones where they've got bugger-all to spend on an old banger. Maybe it reminds me of my own predicament!
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