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wardycatt

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Everything posted by wardycatt

  1. wardycatt
    Could one of the coolant pipes off the throttle body have been dripping down between the heatshield and the exhaust pipe, near to where the pipes come together (i.e. after the exhaust manifold)? I did some work on the inlet manifold, and then had all sorts of smoke coming out the engine bay and under the car, for the first 15-20 minutes of running it. I thought something like coolant or lubricant would burn off quickly, but it only really starts evaporating once the exhaust heats up properly. I did crap myself at the time. Give the smoke a sniff (don't get high!) - if it's white-ish in colou
  2. wardycatt
    I fitted generic leads (GSF I think) about 12-18 months ago and haven't had any issues. The only thing I would say is that they don't stand up to being repeatedly removed / put back in if you're doing lots of work on the car. They're clearly not as well made as Magnecore leads, but if you're on a tight budget then generic pishers should do the job for a couple of years (in my humble opinion). That gives you time to save for some decent ones, should you so desire.
  3. wardycatt
    I'm sure some of you guys must've seen this VR6 Golf cop car... ...not quite a police car, but another VR6-powered emergency vehicle: ...and finally, not 100% sure that this is a VR6 'rado, but it's one cool police car anyway:
  4. wardycatt
    Basically, the PCV allows blow-by gases from the crankcase to escape. It re-routes them back towards the intake manifold, where they are sucked into the engine and burnt. This more complete burning of the gases them means overall hydrocarbon emissions are lower than if the gas (and associated crud) were allowed to escape first time. Disconnecting your PCV should have no impact on the running of the engine (I THINK - feel free to correct me), as it is just providing a route for waste products of the combustion process to escape (and my one has been totally busted for 2 years, with no major sid
  5. wardycatt
    Yes, they're ideal for getaways. Mine's even has an oil-slick feature, plus a smokescreen (although I can't seem to find the 'off' switch for either of them) :-D
  6. wardycatt
    Cheers guys, I've yet to take the inlet manifold off for a proper look, but I think you're correct. New gasket is on the way.
  7. wardycatt
    My PCV has been busted for ages. I decided to go down the route of a catch can, primarily because I see it as a more permanent fix. Although a catch can needs emptied periodically, that's a two-second job whilst your checking your oil and other fluids anyway. If you replace one crappy PCV with another, you'll be hunting for it again in another few years (and the price is going to go up the rarer these parts / cars become). Most cars of the Mk3 Golf / Corrado era will have had a replacement PCV anyway - so most of us are now replacing the PCV for the second (or third) time. I wouldn't accept a
  8. wardycatt
    I've not noticed any smoke. It's been running rough, but the plug replacement seems to have dealt with that. I'll need to look into it in more depth.
  9. wardycatt
    I removed spark plug number 6 from my car the other day, and it's covered in oil. I noticed some splashes of oil on the inside of the metal HT lead cover. The top half of the ceramic end of the plug was clean, the hexagonal 'nut' is totally black and oily and the thread is oily as well. The electrode is slightly black and appears to have a moderate amount of carbonated oil residue on it. So I have two quick questions. Firstly, is the oil likely to have come from inside the engine (as opposed to an external leak which has pooled into the number 6 spark plug hole)? Secondly, what are the most
  10. wardycatt
    If anyone's got a dodgy-looking passenger side, I could park my car next to them. Provided we can hide the driver's side of my vehicle, the club may actually retain some sort of respectability! We'll have to drive in side by side, 6 inches apart. Like some sort of warped three-legged race for decrepit motors. ...however Mrs Wardycatt has asked what the shopping is like in Cheshire, so it looks like I am on for this. (I told her loads of WAGs stay there, so it must be good) :-D see you there
  11. wardycatt
    I might be totally wrong here, but the clocks resetting etc. makes me think about a short circuit or a bad earth somewhere. Would the clocks die if the car simply wasn't starting? However, with a bad earth the starter shouldn't be drawing a current, making a noise or heating up. You'd get a single click from the switch, and no starter activity at all. I can't play your vid with sound (at work) so I'll try and remember to do that later and come back with some more amateur advice.
  12. wardycatt
    Do you hear the noise all the time, or only under certain conditions (e.g. turning a corner, going over a bump, going up a hill etc.)?
  13. wardycatt
    Well, there's bugger-all happening in Scotland, so this is technically a local event for me (a mere 4.5 hours down the road). I'll speak with the missus tonight and maybe I can attend what would be my first VR6OC-related event. Anyone got a dragon green felt-tip pen?
  14. wardycatt
    It's a slow work day. Sooooo.... 1. Clean it up and make it into a TopGear-style coffee table 2. Make it the centrepiece of a hamsterarium 3. Strap it to the floor of your boot to improve weight distribution 4. Tie it to the feet of a gangster who has wronged your family, before you chuck him in the river. 5. Put it in your car and then take it to a garage and ask them why your engine won't start* 6. Try and sell it to Liverpool FC (they've been known to pay up to £35m for useless big lumps). 7. Start making a WR12 engine 8. Use it to hold very large sheets of paper in gale-force winds Oh
  15. wardycatt
    You've replaced a couple of sensors - maybe look at a couple more (e.g. temp sensor, camshaft sensor, lambda)? And I would double-check the others that you've already mentioned - especially the MAF. Electrically, I would normally be blaming the coil pack or plugs but you've mentioned that they're ok already. I assume you've checked the leads (seated properly and in good condition?) PCV valve might give you a moderately rough idle, but you shouldn't be noticeably down on power as a result of that. Was the old throttle body incredibly oily, out of interest? Does the car splutter when cold and wa
  16. wardycatt
    Could they be for fitting over the ends of some sort of lead / cable? They look like something you'd use a heat gun on to shrink wrap them. But I can't think what, or why :-?
  17. wardycatt
    I agree with the previous suggestions, and I would keep things as basic (and cheap) as possible to begin with. 1. Clean the MAF sensor, throttle body and cam sensor -- use electrical contact cleaner or similar for sensors. 2. Swap the sensors out with known-good units (e.g. if you have the luxury of a friend with a VR6 - or limp it to a meet and beg someone) 3. Look at the ignition system - I'd give the coil pack the epoxy glue treatment if it is the original part. Then check all leads one by one, and get the spark plugs out for a look also. Failing these two-bob solutions, you might have to
  18. wardycatt
    The Bosch S5 is good - I currently have this in my R Reg Golf VR6. Unfortunately I went to Halfrauds, so I'll not mention the price.
  19. wardycatt
    The wings, sills and floor are all pathetic in terms of rust. I used to think VW made quality cars until I bought a collender with a 2.8 engine strapped to it. The only redeeming feature about a Mk.3 Golf VR6 is the actual engine - all the bodywork is s**t, and most of the ancillary engine components are s**t as well.
  20. wardycatt
    Looks like a good spot. I've been ruling cams out due to their price up 'til this point. However, this might change things. Do you have any idea what the shipping would be on this? I did try and check, but needed to create an account before it would tell me. One other thing - is it recommended to get the springs at the same time as the cams? And whilst we're on the subject, are there any other parts that should be done at the same time? Any cam veterans with some experience to share? I'm off to do the obligatory forum-trawl on the subject now...
  21. wardycatt
    In terms of BHP per £££, forced induction is going to give better value for money as long as you can do a slum-dog turbo conversion. That's my theory at least. My reasoning is that cams and a Schrick manifold are expensive pieces of kit, and with those installed (and a re-map) your N/A car is likely to get about 210 - 220 bhp max. (correct me if I'm wrong). A cheap-ass turbo conversion where you do all the labour is going to cost about a grand (no more, I hope!), however you probably wouldn't go to all the trouble of a turbo conversion to only put out 220bhp! My personal aim is a modest
  22. wardycatt
    I honestly don't know - mine was replaced long before I owned the motor, with one from Milltek. I had just assumed that it needed uprated on that basis (and that it's a very common mod). Quite a common first mod as well, I believe - but that might be more cosmetic / acoustic than anything performance-related. Vr(6)oooooom! I wouldn't expect many people to still be cutting about with the original after all this time, but maybe I'm wrong...?
  23. wardycatt
    As a bare minimum, you should get a decent exhaust and air intake. I believe these are the only mods on my car, and that has taken it from the standard 174bhp to 191bhp after a re-map. And use high octane fuel (97 min) - this does make a small difference as well.
  24. wardycatt
    Any time I add items to my basket, and then leave the site, I get a message about 24 hours alter offering me 10% off whatever's in my cart. So the moral of the story is, order the parts 24-48 hours before you intend to buy them, and wait until they send you the code. I don't know if they'd still do that if you applied the 10% club discount. And by the way - how do you apply the discount for being a member of the club? p.s. - This highlights once more why paid membership is great value for money. I could get more than my membership fee back from one order with GSF. And no, I'm not on the com
  25. wardycatt
    Here's a link to a current eBay listing for the tool in question: click here to view The eBay ref No. is as follows: 260410340724
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