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vr6_super

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Everything posted by vr6_super

  1. Glad I seen this thread, this was one of the mods I was going to go down. Doesnt the 6 branches you buy off ebay etc come with adaptor plates? First question should be tho, what is an adaptor plate? Assuming then it doesnt just bolt str8 on?
  2. Come to think of it they didnt give me a printout although they do advertise 4 wheel alignment. I got my printout from previous place but this was before the new suspension was put on and they said they couldnt adjust the camber. Iassume because the shock was knakrd?
  3. just wondering what the clunking could be on the o/s/r now that the shox been changed, wasnt there before so defo something to do with new shock, faulty? it does only come into play when the shock is being used, ie going over bumps etc but it sounds awful, like its grinding against something. also a week before i got a new wheel bearing put in that wheel, that wouldnt have anything to do with it would it?
  4. now that suspension is back to normal instead of being slammed i can change over tyres and see what they are like, wishbone bushes not changed, yet
  5. yeah 4 wheel alignment done buddy, hoping these top mounts and bearings have something to do with it he did ask whether the steering wheel tries to pull back to the left when i'm turning right and it does so heres hoping
  6. Well I've been through a few things. New n/s engine mount as the old had some sort of residue over it. Tie rod ends (were needing replaced apparently). Got new coilovers fitted today, though the o/s/r is making a shit load of noise when going over bumps so its going back in on Monday. The only thing we havent done yet which it could be are the top mounts and bearings. These were supposed to be done today but TMS supplied wrong ones. Though this is my last thought, any others. It isnt a bad veering but enough to piss me off and now this o/s/r suspension thing is frustrating. Must be something t
  7. Well back from 3rd garage to look at car and n/s shock is f*kd. Its seized up real good and not adjustable, also the o/s top mount is apparently knakrd which is a pain bcoz its one of the things the first mechanice was supposed to have done which he hasnt , alongwith the o/s/r bearing. Anyways, just ordered new coilovers all round and this time they wont be set so low.
  8. Once I get the veering sorted I plan to get it dyno'd and see what it is putting out the now, then get the cams etc and remap then see what it is putting out again. Re the veering, had engine mount changed, tie rod ends changed and although it feels better it is still veering a bit but this time the wheel isnt turning as much. Hoping the left front being lower 10mm than the right has something to do with it, getting it adjusted in an hour. Will post later with results
  9. What I dont get re the sending ecu away thing is isnt the whole part of remapping to get the best out of your car? How can that be when you send the ecu away? Shouldnt the ecu be plugged in when they are running the diagnostic machine thingy and using the results to quantify the best settings?
  10. From UM or Stealth or someone different?
  11. Would certainly be easier that way than taking it to them or stealth
  12. I see a lot of threads on here about people who get remaps done after doing some mods and people asking if a getting a remap done will improve performance even without mods. Me personally, i am planning probably cams to go with new induction kit, 6 branch, decat. Not going down the schrick road for the minute coz the pennies dont allow it. I am assuming a remap in any case will make the vr6 perform better, maybe not in terms of horses, but at least run better. So my question is, after the above mods, remap?
  13. Any feedback on them? Rated? Unrated?
  14. Yeah I kinda figured it would cause some issue. Previous mech was an idiot and put ride height at differing levels when putting on new strut tops. Once engine mount and tie rod ends are fitted I will run it and see how it feels.
  15. I see where youre coming from. Got massive grooved on the fronts as it is and getting new calipers in next couple of weeks (found somewhere much cheaper than euro carparts lol). Handling wise, I just wanna get the veering sorted, but I got some things getting fitted on friday. Also, mech said this shouldnt really make any difference but would the ride height being 1cm lower on left front make any difference? Next, what do people think about the Pipercross Velocity induction kit?
  16. Already got the 2.5 system, looks like cams are weapon of choice
  17. I see tons of threads saying about turbos and superchargers etc whereas most of us dont have the reddies to dive into that kind of operation. Also, it isnt just the cost of the unit, its all the other bits and bobs that go with it, not to mention the labour costs, not to metion the inevitable replacement costs when you weld that right foot just once too often lol. For those of us that dont have much in the way of reddies or the tech know how on how to strip and rebuild an engine, where would be a good place to start? For example, I have a 96 OBD2 VR6, with an engine, gearbox, clutch thats done
  18. sorry to hijack the thread but i am needing a new engine mount as well so will keep an eye on this thread rather than start a new one, its the gearbox one and its got studd leaking from it. assuming were prob talking vf eng for the mounts?
  19. Hey there what final bore are you told is on your 6 branch? I am curious coz I am being told on the one I am looking at its 55mm which would make it 2.165" bearing in mind the standard exhaust system is 2.25"
  20. Yeah thought that. Someone selling them on ebay, saying they are for my car but also saying they have a final bore of 55mm or 2.165" Any ideas?
  21. Got my mot in March and planning putting in a ss manifold and decat str8 after on but wondering on sizes. Saw one on ebay that came with a final bore of 55mm. I heard that the standard exhaust pipe for VR6 is 2.25", however the manifold (which is specifically for VR6) comes in at 2.165" Currently I have a cat back system at 2.5" and the guy put a "sleeve" on to fit it up. If I put in manifold and keep cat, then I will have a 2.165" mani on to a 2.25" cat on to a 2.5" cat back system. Or is the standard size I heard wrong? Is it actually 2.165" ie 55mm? Obviously I am going to have to keep the
  22. just shows u need to shop around for things eh, went back to good mech and said to him what he thot about what the bad mech said, ie looks like the left strut is lower than the right, ie engine leaning lower at left, ie probable cause of veering, asked him if this is likely and he said yeah 2 months ago he advised to get rear axle bushes and new top mounts as they were worn, done so and got the bad mech to replace them as he was closer, big mistake it appears. it looks like when he has changed the tops and went to put the struts back in he hasnt done both to the same ride height, so phone call
  23. halfords here i come, its that fekn low i need a trolley jack and a block of wood to get the wheel high enough to get the jack in ffs lol time to do a wee search on the forum and find the best jacking points, sure i saw one somewhere
  24. Just wondering if there are any good / trustworthy places to take my VR in Scotland, prefer near Central belt? Got a mech 200 yards from house but they dont do intricate stuff while performance place 15 mile away told me one fault with my car when it was something completely different. Also heard some bad things about them? Any ideas?
  25. will try that first anyways, i didnt put suspension on but been told it is adjustable, do i have to jack it up to adjust it or can i have it up on ramps and standing under the car? dont know if its possible to adjust if theres weight on it on the ramps so is under the jack better? should i take wheel off? soz for the newb questions
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