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vr6_super

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Everything posted by vr6_super

  1. vr6_super
    cheers for the replies, the top mounts have been changed though the garage guy does think they have been fitted the wrong way lol from the previous mech, dont know if they can be fitted upside down or not though the pas pump could be an option as when i had it in at the vw garage that was one of the things they thought was up with it
  2. vr6_super
    Hey all, back to the steering problem again lol. Hasnt been too bad recently but have had this for a while but only really noticed it tonight when I was parking up. When I am stationary, engine on, and have the wheels str8, I turn it a bit to the left, get a knocking noise, turn it to the right, another knocking noise, like a thud, if you like. Any ideas? Kinda thinking the rack might be on its way out but it was only a recon one 2 years ago.
  3. vr6_super
    ahhh, ffs in that case, i will just leave it for after the mot next year then. cheers for the replies folks
  4. vr6_super
    Its a 96, P reg
  5. vr6_super
    As above lol. Had the MOT back in February and passed ok bar a bit of welding. Wanting to get a 6 branch and decat for a while to let her breath a bit more easily but just wondering if its worth leaving till after next MOT if its likely to fail? I already have an aftermarket ss cat back system in place although its 2.5" as opposed to the standard 2.25" Its not an old engine. Was brand new probably around 20k ago, 3 years ago. Dont know if that helps with the emissions or not.
  6. vr6_super
    mine is like that as well and i have poly bushes too, but tbh the squeaking only started after i put the new coilys on
  7. vr6_super
    @united, wheel alignment has been done 4 times, and though the steering feels better after it, it still pulls @vr6pete, he said it was a company called amk that do them, dont think its a genuine part due to price difference 190 from tms and 590 from vw but he did say it was new rather than recon. I havent changed the balljoints or arms yet, only changed the engine mount, tie rod ends, top mounts and suspension. So we thinking rack then lol
  8. vr6_super
    Hey all Still got the pulling to the left problem. Had it in at VW in Stirling and they have summised that they think its the steering rack, though their wording says "suspect requires new steering rack" even though the rack was changed only 10k ago. They have also put down "hydraulic pipes badly corroded". Now I spoke to a guy at TMS and he says the pipes going to the rack are aluminium but the pipes going to those pipes may be what they are talking about. Any ideas? They also mentioned power steering pump maybe faulty because they think its the wrong fluid in there. The guy I spoke to at TM
  9. vr6_super
    cheers
  10. vr6_super
    Hey all Looking at giving the VR a wee treat. Replacing coolant and oil change. Re the coolant, I hear G12 is the coolant of choice and I hear the coolant system is around 10 litres. Total flush and say 7.5 litre coolant topped up with water? Sound ok? Re the oil, I have done prob around 10k and never changed and tbh never topped up. I have checked every month but the dipstick doesnnt change really. Never had an oil light on either? What brand of oil works best with the V6? Cheers
  11. vr6_super
    Just had the rears changed over and turns out they werent just kinda scrubbed on the outside but inside as well. Mech advised prob under inflated but I have been checking them quite often as this veering thing still isnt going away. I had them at 31 coz I seen somewhere that that is around the right figure. The tyres are 205/40/17's if it helps. Cheers
  12. vr6_super
    firstly, nice car. second looking at the printout from last alignment check the toe for the rears is fine on their own but together theres half a degree difference. the camber however is -1 degree on the n/s and -1.5 degrees on the o/s. mechanic said he couldnt adjust the camber. any suggestions? just wondering too then can the problems with the rear cause veering? tried most things at the front with no joy.
  13. vr6_super
    just about to order the tyres the now then i will get it into local garage and get them to check it out. just hoping the guy that changed the rear axle bushes to poly ones hasnt fucked something up, coz he already has on top mounts and wheel bearing
  14. vr6_super
    they arent the best quality tyres like but the inflation thing is something i regularly check coz being low profiles its hard to tell
  15. vr6_super
    bummer, any ideas on why the report would say it is out then? been knocked possibly? also why the uneven tyre wear? i know you dont have the answers lol, but suggestions would be very much appreciated cheers
  16. vr6_super
    Just getting around to getting new rears and I can see that the outside of the n/s tyre is well more worn than the inside. Then I looked back at the 4 wheel alignment printout which said the camber was out. When I asked them why they didnt put it right they said they couldnt. My question to you all is is it possible to change the rear camber ie with a special tool or something or is it just not possible? I wouldnt have thought you couldnt change it because it has obviously been changed to the setting its at the now. Any ideas? I am just wondering if its the camber on the rear which is making t
  17. vr6_super
    think maybe then powder coating the way to go, mate got his type r originals done a cyan blue for 160, think i will prob go gun metal grey
  18. vr6_super
    click on the link in the 1st post
  19. vr6_super
    Any other ideas?
  20. vr6_super
    any ideas?
  21. vr6_super
    As title says I have some surface corrosion and want rid of it rather than investing in new set of alloys. Ive seen somewhere that wire wool is best way to go? Any ideas? Click here to see the pic.
  22. vr6_super
    Right, I cant seem to put a copy of scanned document on here because photobucket wont accept my scan. But I can tell you the red portions of the alignment. This wasnt the most recent alignment but should still be enough for any1 to point out any flaws. It was done after the engine mount and tie rod ends but before new top mounts and suspension. I know I should put a recent one in but it feels the same and hoping someone can tell something from this. Left front - all green Right front - the caster is red, 4 degrees 13', the rest green Left rear - camber is red, -1 degree 06' Right rear - camber
  23. vr6_super
    Thought I would start a new thread with this one. Got new coilys fitted and now there is a creaking whenever I go over bumps tho I must say it was worse on Saturday when they were fitted as opposed to yesterday when I took it to garage for checking. They think its something to do with the shock itself as they swapped it over to n/s/r and the problem followed. Was in local parts place and mentioned to them for like a 3rd opinion lol and they mentioned something along the lines of with them lying horizontal then you need to "prime" them to get the oil moving around? That make sense to anyone? An
  24. vr6_super
    Well got it back from garage and they couldnt see a physical problem with the shock so they switched it to the n/s/r and the problem is there now so its defo something to do with the shock. In contact with supplier who is saying send it back etc while I am saying send a new one up and I will send it back. Re the veering, n/s/r swapped to front so will see lata what it feels like tho the tread pattern didnt indicate any abnormal wear.
  25. vr6_super
    More money? Why stop now eh lol Had a GTIR before this and that was a drain as well. It got done on Saturday and drove it home 4 miles and it didnt get any better, thot it might need driven in but they got a call when I got home and told it was coming back in on Monday. I will ask them about the printout and see if I can get it.
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