*P3nfold*
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Everything posted by *P3nfold*
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Cheers United. its there a setting range or output I should be expecting?
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Ok sure what group is that?
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I checked the car with vag.com and no lambda errors
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Thanks RCF, damn full fat fuel!! lol I was going to replace the plugs with the BKR7E but need to gap them. Does anyone know the gap size please? Its an easy test quick change of the plugs. I am running a 3 bar fpr due to the map from United.
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Just bought some ASH T-Bolt Hose Clamps for a better fit to replace the Jubilee Hose Clips which I think are naf.
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Just thought a picture paints a thousand words and all that Boost gauge pipework fitted correctly Re-cir fitted correctly
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Well I decided on my lunch break to investigate the bolts connecting the Throttle body and inlet manifold. Cannot believe it there is a single bolt missing that connects the throttle body to the upper inlet manifold. So again more money and time, I've bought 4 new bolts and an gasket as a just in case, Its not bad it cost a £10 from TPS. I hope I am getting to the solution in the end.
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I will go through all the checks again, Does anyone have any test I can use? I will also check all the bolts connecting the throttle body and inlet manifold. I have checked the manifold vacuum hose to brake servo and found nothing there. I think I have replaced if not checked every hose I can think off but check again I will. United - The MAF is on the inlet side of the charger, roughly 10 inches plus away. It looks something like is from the charger down Charger inlet Silicone Pipework with ports for crank house oil breather and recir Silicone MAF K&N air filter Its worth noting I did cha
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Lol from Ireland. If the software needs changing I will most likely contacted United or Steath.
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Well fuel pump issue resolved, the large top was not fitted correctly, so another issue resolved. I am already looking at replacing a few parts to replace, mostly the clips and re-cir valve as I want a stiffer spring as I am defo loosing boost there. So she is running better for sure, but still ticks over rough until it's driven. Also I am getting a pinking sound under throttle which is worrying! So please any advise would be great!!
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I would agree with Kev for sure. I just could not travel he distance to Stealth.
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Hey lee, I must admit the Rotrex is an awesome bit of kit and is not like any other charger in terms of efficiency and power delivery. Craggys ran one on this VR for a year or so I believe but hes engine went pop due to age. I am currently running a Vortech V3 though will some running issue. The car is currently on positive boost at around 2500rpm under throttle so its good for the mid range torque backed up with a set of Schimmel 263 cams. So for me its ideal and it really depends on how fierce you what the power delivery from the charger? I read and heard the rotrex give's you positive boost
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I got to say VeedubVR, Paul and Kev know there sh*t.
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Well I had an air leak from the recir, as it may have not been fitted correctly, I am still not convinced that its the right way now tbh, I will post a pic tomorrow. This has helped the positive boost for sure. I changed the HT leads, and MAF and this made a big difference. I took her out and could feel the positive boost after around 2500 rpm. So happy with that and she pulls well but noticed some juddering under throttle after the third or fourth long run. So this leads me to the next problem. I had the fuel pump uprated to a Walbo of which has sprung a leak from the seal I think. The two pi
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I had the cams fitted with the charger. 263 cams will not produce a lumpy idle if they are fitted correctly. I used vag.com the full edition and measured the idle and it stayed at 800rpm. I am not sure what rev range I should see boost on a V3 vortech? If the gauge didn't move, this kind of points to an air leak.(If it is plumbed in correctly of course.) I will take another pic tomorrow of the set up for the recir and boost. Can anyone point me to what the stats should look like when measuring/metering with vag.com?
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Hey Kev, I've not tried moving the injectors but bear in mind they are under a standard manifold now. I can confirm that Tony fitted the cams correctly and are timed correctly. If I remember correctly did you not run 263 cams in your beast? I did idlle a bit lumpy? I did take her out today and see pulls like a bloody train, best rush I have had in ages. Though I did not see the boost gauge move at all?? I did check that vacuum was there of which I felt the smallest ever. Will TB adaption help?
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I would ask nstuning, I bought my kit from them, bloody good guys.. Highly recommended.
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Bumper off and confirmed MAF air flow is in the right direction. Will check all pipework today! So I have got vag.com from Calico, thanks, to do TB recalibration. I have bought new HT leads from Dubpower. I have a spare coilpack from Matt, thanks. So if this does not sort the issue, then I have no idea. I might then just break the car and call it a day with VR6's.
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Decided not to go with the one of ebay and am looking at this website as its cheaper but I think it ticks the boxes http://shop1.actinicexpress.co.uk/shops/partsforaircraft/index.php?cat=VDO_Sensors 360-023 150psi /10 bar Metric M10 x 1 thread Twin terminal, second terminal is for a low pressure warning lamp triggered below 7 psi. 30/9 stamped into the nut Ground is via the engine block. Price: £46.80 £39.00 (Excl. VAT) + £2.81 P&P
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I used United Motorsport and have had no issues. I would advise be very clear on what you setting up e.g Cam? Exact injectors? Manifold? FPR? Maf? any other mods. The reason I say this is this is a generic map for your requirements.
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315cc/min (30lb/hr) at 3 bar. Thanks for the confirmation.
