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*P3nfold*

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Everything posted by *P3nfold*

  1. The kit is used, was from Craggys build. ARP head stud kits are meant to be reused!! If you are interested I will put them onto the sales board?
  2. No mate not at all, I don't want to take the chance to be honest. Only if I had a trailer lol. But thanks RCF.
  3. Would like to say thanks to Jim for giving his time and a smack down lol to put some perspective on the build etc.. I will strip the rocker cover and take a look at the chain to see if its slack again and may take the top side cover off to see if there is any damage/additional wear to the top guide rail and chain tensioning plate. So lots of pictures. Looks like a top end timing issue. so until this is sorted I really will know if there is engine damage. Cheers Jim and guys for your comments
  4. I really cannot see an option at the moment to be honest. Nothing is free in this world, so something has to give.
  5. Don be warned, having done alot of research I would suggest changing the tappets with the Cams. With regards to both I will put these on the sales board once I have gone through the parts and prices. I will PM you once they are advertised correctly.
  6. Thread is dead and done. Thanks for your input.
  7. Well I have numerous issues related to vag.com errors of which I have sorted myself with support from the forum of which has been great but the issues mechanically caused by mistakes is beyond me to resolve and I am now totally dishearten and have run out of money. I will post up all the parts that have been used to do the build and will look into now breaking the VR. The first parts to go are below Schimmel Cams 263 - Used for under a 100 miles Raceland 6 Branch which is heat wrapped O2A gearbox Lower strut brace Sub, amp and wiring kit New green stuff front brake pads New metal layered head
  8. Lovely, good to hear the worse!! Well I am currently looking for a low mileage engine which has had it's chains done. I will get new tappets and transfer the cams. So currently my project is on hold as I don't want to put anymore money into this engine. Cylinder 5 is running the lowest compression of 130 psi when Tony tested. Jim I will PM you for a quote on a few bits!
  9. Well Tony came down and noticed the timing was slightly out, I had the choice to change the tappets with second hand ones but decided not too as new ones would be a better option. The car ran so much better but the bolt that tensions the upper chain was not tighten up and oil pissed out, so I did that job and the car idles rough only on a cold start and runs well when warmed up, boost is fine through the rev range. The only sound is the tappets. What would be the effect of oil coming out of the bolt as it's spring loaded and relies on oil?
  10. I will check that tomorrow Kev. When changing the cams do you need to empty the oil in the tappets before fitting the new cams? The cams are Schimmel 263.
  11. Cheers Adam, Well big update, I've decided to take the VR off the road until the tappets/cam issue is sorted, MAF/air filter move, crank house breather changes etc...
  12. I got to ask Jake but why are you adding an intercooler?
  13. Just trying to understand what the possible issue maybe with the sound coming from the car. I originally thought the sound was Engine Pinking but it may be Noisy Tappets! So my questing is how do you tell the difference?
  14. Decided to move the MAF further away from the charger, so I bought some 1 meter 2ply air ducting. I have also bought new t-bolt clamps and 19mm blanking plug to block off the crank house pipe inlet on the charger inlet pipework. The crank house breather is to be plumbed to the passenger side oil catch.
  15. Another day another fault 00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 14-10 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded - Intermittent I thought before before taking the throttle body off, just check for fault codes and there it is. So throttle body off, give it a good clean with carb or brake cleaner, then back on and throttle body adaptation.
  16. Response from VF regarding my charger and boost Hello Martin,  The engine should go into positive pressure almost immediately. But, the boost will not be at it's maximum until the rev limit. For example 8 psi at 7000 should mean about 2-4 psi at 3500.
  17. Will do I will test tomorrow and post the output. I am sure its something simple.
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