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krave

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Everything posted by krave

  1. A M8 spline piece for your driveshaft bolts. Maybe clutch, even timing chains and tensioners isn't hard once the box is off. there is a guide for that on vortex, and it really isnt bad if you follow instructions.
  2. everytime ive taken the timing covers off the cams always seem a tad out, a tad advanced, the tool gets in, but the slots arent completely level.
  3. Definately not low gears mate. high gears.
  4. Sounds good. must get premieum membership next time some one buys something. Does it open up more on the main board.
  5. how much would this cost in total?? summer time works well for me, easter one sounds very good, but ive got a holiday around then with the g/f and her family. Am currently trying to get out of i must add.
  6. yeah mate, im 99% sure, someone will correct me if im wrong tho!
  7. removing the air con is simple, unless you want to take out the wiring and the heaterbox side. Then just get a non air con belt and replace. A/c pumps sell for a decent bit of cash, just finding people to buy them.
  8. I have just taken off my head to do headgasket, no visable parts of gasket missing, just really corroded parts where the water channels, as if s the head! the head is so corroded and will need to be skimmed. How do i go about getting the valves out and lapping them in? im on a budget, and how much to sklm the head/ Or does any one have a fully work, uncorroded head for cheap for sale.
  9. I have a vr6 engine that was in one of my golfs, basically it started smoking on acceleration. Then started smoking after about 30 seconds of starting the morning. There was mayo in the oil cap ( loads of) but thought this may be because of the cold, so wiped it off and five ten later its there again. I left the car and started it a few times and it would smoke heavily when revved, clouds of white smoke, it then started mising slightly and progessivley got worse untill the car sounded like air mix was all wrong ( would start, chug, not rev and die) Can be started over and over but the same thi
  10. doing a mk2 conversion, stripping my donor car atm, and im taking the rear axle out. couple of questions that i need help with. When putting the mk3 rear axle on the mk2 car i use the mk2 brackets to hold the axle, or do i need the mk3 brackets. and when i use the mk3 brakes on the rear will the mk2 lines and handbrake match up. ? Thanks
  11. I have a few spare cars and parts about and could make one out of them. The thing im confused about is the wiring. The shell that i will be using is a f reg 16v mk2 golf. I know i need the post 90 spec wiring in the interior, but can i just swap my pre 90 spec for post 90 spec, and change just a few connections? My other option is change a few connections with the rear lights etc and use the entire mk3 loom (not just the engine and ecu loom) and change the dash to a mk3 dash. Some help would be appreciated on this. I would rather put a post 90 spec loom in and then plug the vr6 side of thing
  12. my mate brought one about 3 weeks ago. lucky boy, only 20 too.
  13. yeah mate, got your reply on ed38, il get the cash over to you asap, waiting on a check to clear. Thanks.
  14. thanks for input guys, i understand that it may not last the longest but i dont have the money, if i need do it again in 6 months when i do that is ok. Thanks again. Oh and the release bearing was sold in his gear box.
  15. P.s, i also have another cluth disk and pressure plate in my garage that was out of another golf, if there is tread on the disk and a bit of removable rust on the pressure plate, is it recomended not too use this ( could it now not work although it did before removal diue to weather etc) Sorry fotr the ?s just need my car back and havent got the monay et the moment..
  16. Right so my clutch went and i am going to replace it myself as i said in earlier post. I havent got the money to spend £100 on a clutch kit atm but i habve come across a second hand clutch disk and pressure that has only done 100 miles or so before the engine got dstripped for parts. my clutch is slipping so badly through the rev range you cant get any where, it wasnt as bad but its just got worse. I suppose im aking whether im ok just changing these parts or whether it could be the release bearing or another part that could be causing the clutch to slip. dont want to put it back together w
  17. injectors?? take the fuel line off and turn the engine over once, should get a squirt of fuel. THhen youl know if there fuel getting to them..... just one idea.
  18. Just watched that, typical american advert, but does seem to be imperessive if its true. just dont get to see the engine after, or long enough.
  19. three hold it to the block, if yours has been leaking, be careful that they are not coroded, and dont chew them due to this. they may be fine tho. the front end is a piece of pi** really. behind the fig lights there is a couple of 13mm bolts, undo these, disconnect the wiring that goes onto the front and rad hoses. Undo the bolts that hold the top of the crossmember ( bit that the bonnet latches onto) bonnet latch cable, and the whole front will come off together. Really only takes five. minutes. Excuse my spelling too, plus my keyboard is broke.
  20. To get to the thermostat, you have to take the front end off. Well i have when ever i have done it. it is located on the front riught side of the engine, there is a pipe going diagnally across the front of the block, the right hand end goes into it, you cant miss it really. Its not hard to change, and you'l find it easy.
  21. Ok, thanks. Hopefully i dont get a face full of coolant....
  22. Just realised whart you ment, obviously get the car high up on ramps etc. Should i sytill drop the front subframe. Again a few little pointers is what im hoping for. Thanks :-)
  23. Ok thanks. when you say high enough, how would you recomend doing it? engine crane it up? front end still on? all engine mounts off. just looking for a few pointers rally, dont really want to have it out again. 6 times is a lot in that little months lol.
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