Phat VR6
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Everything posted by Phat VR6
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lol i thought it might give you more torque, but less power. looks pritty funky though
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just seen this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Volkswagen-Transporter-T4-Inlet-Manifold-Complete-VR6-/120610761787?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c14f62c3b
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what charger you got and what have you done to get 380 bhp.. or is that with nos?
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Bungy's 4motion turbo in progress
Phat VR6 replied to bungy's topic in Members Rides and Event Photos
the worse.. along with the drive shaft bolts -
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as far as the final drive you could go for the V5 gearbox out of a mk4 golf/ bora. they come with a lower final drive of 3.94. im not sure how much lower that is but im told it lower. they also have better tighter shift feel. and there are alot around with 80k. ive just picked up the box, starter motor and cables/ shifter for £230 after that you need to change the gearbox cups for 100mm mk4 tdi ones and after that its all bolt in im also intrested in the 263. maybe we should sort out a group buy on the remaps aswell
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no car related stuff. some sweet never the less. i treated myself to some bits though
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this or outer
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lol whats in that mk4? :-d for me ducati 1198 sp, new paint.., this list goes on but thats a start lol
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just because you love playing with cars, building and fabricating doesn't mean you will love it when you have to do if for a living. most mechanics go into it as they love messing around with cars ect. its there hobby. but most of them hate it after a few years. Ive been messing with cars/ motor bikes. building shit since i was a kid. loved it. 4 years into the traded and i hated it. ask any mechanic when he last did a service on his own car lol. You end up having to work on your cars as you don't want to pay onone else. theres the term "never buy a car off a mechanic" all trades
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you can just unbolt the drive shafts and leave the cups left in the gearbox mate. i guess your going for quite a lot of power? id be worried how the transer box would cope with that. and the diff for that matter. theres plenty of 500-600 R32s around so you should be good for 300bhp i guess. but after that noone knows. could get exspensive
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more than that. i payed £250 2nd hand. defo worth the money mate. id buy it again
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i think in a ideal world you would still want the engine to come forward quite abit. it would sit infront of the rear axal but not that far. would be miles from a 50/50 set up. could be ballanced up with extra weight in the front. I was wondering how much of a angle you can put the CV joints though before it would be to much for them and start breaking. Outer CV should be fine as there designed to work at exscive angles when strearing. inners in not to sure. Could you get some custom drive shafts made up say 5" longer to mount the engine even further to the front of the car?
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i was thinking about this the other day. engine in the back would destroy the handling i think as the center of graity would be moved to far back. good for drag racing though Would a hatchback even handle very well with rwd. isn't the wheel base to short for it. i think it could make for a very mental drive but i have no idea :S. bmw 1 series is the only one i know of and that does alright . most rwd are long sallons though I think you could leave the o2m without the front drive shafts attacted. doesn't drive always go to the rear incase the front are just spinning up on there own. you c
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i had the same thing but from C2. you wont gain much power i dont think maybe 3bhp or somthing. but it defo feels alot quicker and more responsive to drive. pehaps with cams it will make a even bigger difference
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what would you do to your motor if you had unlimited funds?
Phat VR6 replied to Pearsy47's topic in General Chat
nats with some carbon pannels on a black car. Leave it N/A for the noise. kw lifters, every exspensive splits, then keep it for sunny days and buy a really quick road rally car like a evo -
yeah that sound good with the audi. My battery is in my boot and powerstearing res moved so theres a fair bit of room. saying that i don't know how big they are. Reason behind thinking about doing it is low millage eatons cost £150. and once you built the unit you could just mount it in there. conect to thottle body and off you go (after remap and injectors) VR6 turbo done properly is still around 3500k on a budget the advantage over a rotex is you could get full boost at 3000 rpm. I think you would have to run the rotex with its gearbox still inplace. I get the feeling the rotex is just
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right had an idea.. 2 eaton m45 superchargers mounted together. powerfull 12v electric motor. work out the max rpm of the chargers. set up pulleys so they get there max rpm. speed controler mounted on the throttle cable to progressly increase boost. You sould set it up to reach max boost at like 4000 rpm. Intercooler. injectors, fuel pump, remap and headspacer. Why wouldn't this work. can think why anyone hasn't done it yet
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fit a 24v engine for that money
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if it drifts and does donuts off the throttle then its working ok lol
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Better winter economy and faster warming up
Phat VR6 replied to bungy's topic in Syncro, R32 and 4motion
But you are still travelling down the road with freezing air circulating through the engine bay slowing down the warming up process. They are designed by VW for exactly that reason. oh right yeah fair enough, didn't think about that -
Better winter economy and faster warming up
Phat VR6 replied to bungy's topic in Syncro, R32 and 4motion
would make no difference as the water doesn't travel though the rad untill it upto 90 anyway. only goes round the engine and heter matrix -
yep ive got one mate. its not mint though any chance of a pic fella thank' date=' [/quote'] its a black mk3 door.. few rust skabes about the size of a 50p. looks like a black mk3 door. cba to that a photo mate sorry
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sorry both gone ^^
