
IbiVR
Members-
Content Count
337 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
VR6OC News
Website Content
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Store
Collections
Community Map
Everything posted by IbiVR
-
Nice one, glad you got it running. So what are your first impressions - worth the effort? Tom.
-
167 on a standard box with standard rev limit. Tom.
-
Ok so i'm guessing its either Kinetic or ATP based kit. In which case the manifold will not fit and the chip supplied will not work - The manifold fouls the brake servo, and the us spec code will not run properly in a UK ecu. You will need to relocate your brake servo and get a custom map We get the short straw over here in the uk as far as turboing the VR. It is a good price though - Retail is around $2500 on both. My thoughts - Both these kits have good reviews and are used alot with reasonable success in the US - its not a bad way to get 270hp, although for you it's gonna be harder with mor
-
be interested to see whats in that kit. its cheap, so i would assume its non intercooled and fairly low boost - 6 psi ish? Ie about 270bhp ish. Just be careful what manifold your getting as us spec ones will not fit RHD cars. Turbo's definatly the way though If you go that way and need any help/advice feel free to pm me - weve done a few... Tom.
-
The compression issue is irelavant. Thats decided on boost rather than if you have a turbo or sc. The only reason to lower compression is to run higher boost - which you can do easy with a turbo not so easy with sc. The only thing is it seems a bit of a waste to go turbo and run s/c boost levels, but if your after 300 odd brake then neither will need major engine mods. If your after more power then you need turbo anyway.. As regards traction - you dont really need 4x4 unless your going over 500bhp. I would defo get a diff in there but as long as you dont drive it like a saxo you'll have no pr
-
Not worth the effort when you they did them from the factory
-
Got that just in time then! 156k? I'd have done them twice by then..... Tom.
-
Damm right. You can get 500bhp out of a turbo vr quite safley for around £2500. While it is possible to get that power and more out of a 1.8T it will cost ALOT more. Tom.
-
Yup i got it i think. wont give it away though just yet. You got a sharp eye to see that - i was looking pretty hard!
-
OBD1 Computer chip. Is it Soldered??
IbiVR replied to wakdog's topic in I.C.E, Security an Electrical
Best thing to do is get them to solder in a 28 pin socket. If there carefull getting the old chip out, then you can still use it and swap around between stock and custom easily in the future. You shouldnt have trouble getting it done - try a tv repair shop or something like that - they'll have the kit to do it. I would offer, but your a bit far... Good luck. Tom. -
OBD1 Computer chip. Is it Soldered??
IbiVR replied to wakdog's topic in I.C.E, Security an Electrical
The UK ones are soldered. I think The US one's are socketed, but not 100% sure. AUS one... mmm, dunno, sorry. What code is your ecu? CH/CP/AF will be soldered, EA/BM might not. You can unsolder them, but i wouldnt recomend it if your not an accomplishered solderer. They use multi layer boards and so you have to be very careful not to peel the pads off the board. I use braid, not a solder sucker as these will suck em right up and then your in trouble. Tom. -
On the top of the tensioner you'll see a threaded hole - off the top of my head its a 6mm thread. wind in a nice long bolt until the belt goes slack enough to come off the pulley, your gonna need about a 40-50mm long bolt. Once the belts off you can take the tensioner off by the 3 13mm bolts that hold it on to the block Edit: Done a quick pic for you: Tom.
-
If were being realistic (ish), I would have to go with (in no particular order) E30 M3 Lancia delta integrale evo 2 '68 Mustang Sierra Cosworth Metro 6R4 Dennis Rapier Mk2 fire engine Tom.
-
On a FI engine you want nice cold plugs - BKR6E gapped to .022" Old school style plugs and they only cost about £2 each. change em every 4k or so. No need for fancy plugs on FI. 1 strong small spark is fine, and you wont blow it out if its gapped properly. Tom.
-
It depends on the car. On the ibiza the turbo and and the intercooler we used have 2" outlets, so we used 2 inch and flared up to 3" to go to the throttle body. Another car had a 2.5" outlet so we use 2.5" pipe and cooler inlets. 3" will be fine - but be aware that any air you produce out the turbo has to fill up all your piping as well as your engine. A fixed amount of air in a bigger volume results in less presure. Say you have 6 feet of pipe. at 2" this is a volume of 3.6 litres. At 3" its 6.1 litres - so imagine if there sealed pipes - you will need almost twice as much air to get the same
-
It's hard to get a nice looking weld. Really you'll need to tig weld it, cos mig is just ugly and huge. Decent TIG welder is gonna set you back around £1700, but you can probably hire one. A tig is hard to set up as there are a lot of paramters to change - current, pulse width, gas flow, post flow etc. You also need to be carefull what gas you use - pure argon is best. You'll need to purge the pipework, so the weld is protected from the impurities in the air on the inside of the weld. Purging can use alot of gas so if your a bit slow with the welding your gonna go through the gas quikly. You
-
depends on your turbo choice. Mine spools up at 2500 odd and can still blow 20psi in at 7200rpm. Stick in correctly sized intercooler that will give you max cooling for minimum lag and your away. Like i said depends what your after, but you'd be hard pushed to get 500 brake out of a supercharger. Have a look at some of the dyno charts on vortex - i think youd be surprised. Tom.
-
Cheers, Yeah thats the one i was thinking of. Tom.
-
My mistake the EIP one does fit - thats the one that bolts onto the original headers and sits the turbo by the 'box? Its the ATP and Kinetic ones that foul the master cylinder. I'd be interested in pics if you have any. Yeah you can route wastegate dump into exhaust we have done it this way to - on my ibiza its dumped to atmos. Tom.
-
Depends what your after. they drive differently yeah. I disagree about your comment that a turbo only gives power between certain revs. depending on your choice of turbo it will spool up very early or a bit later in the rev range - but it will provide boost and power all the way through to red line. there is no power band as such. If you compare supercharger boost to a turbo - say maybe 10 psi - then you can use a very small turbo which will spool up pretty much straight away. If you want more power then ok you might have to sacrfice a bit of lag. Mine is good for 500bhp+ and spools up at abou
-
No probs. The specs of that turbo are pretty much ideal, but i'd be a bit wary as theres no brand name. Your not gonna be pushing it ultra hard and its garunteed - but if the compressor wheel ends up going through your engine the garuntee wont be paying for that. I'd pay a little more and look for a brand name one - Garrett, Turbonetics, Holset, something like that. Tom.
-
You wont need a huge turbo as you dont really need much boost and you'll get better drivability with a turbo that spools up quicker. Depending on your budget - For about £1k my choice would be the GT35R - spools up quickly because its ball bearing, and can feed the VR a good level of boost throught the rev range. For a smaller budget look at a journal bearing turbo - these are gonna spool up around 2800rpm ish - still nice and quick and tbh you can pick up a t3/t4 hybrid new for around £300. Look for a T04 - its a t3 turbine housing with a t4 compressor housing - ie loads of boost and spins
-
Standard VR6 engine figures ?????
IbiVR replied to George-1982's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Sounds about right. the DIN 70020 figure of 190 has been corrected to meet the DIN standard. this is power at set constants - namley air temp and pressure. Seems to have been a hot day yesterday as measured air temp yesterday at 45 degrees c!!, so with this corrected back to denser air at 20 degrees you figures gone up. Ignore it, it means nothing 139.5 at the wheels is the only figure that really means anything. They have meausured the drag of the transmisison and added it on to give flywheel power - its not gonna be 100% correct but seems about right So, 180 bhp. 243NM is 179.2 lb/ft. Stan -
Bin it. No proof it was delivered. dam the uk postal system. If they send another, think again.
-
Yeah it is possible to run map instead of maf, we've done it before. Its not quite that straighfoward though as the air pressure signal from the MAP is different to air mass you get from the MAF, as many more calculations are needed, but if you reconfigure the code to apply the calculations to the old MAF input signal then it doesnt take many mods in the fuellings maps to get useable code. As i understand it though Vince intially deleted the MAF cos his code had it conflicting with the o2 sensor? In which case subsituting it with a MAP isnt gonna help. Also bear in mind that a 2 bar MAP is