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Buzzark

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Everything posted by Buzzark

  1. Buzzark
    Probably the main one would be a bore/stroke conversion, but that wouldn't sit too well with either your new crank or piston purchases. I've seen adverts to go to 3.1L on the standard 2.8L engine in Golf+ Cams of course, but they alter the power band of the engine and that might not be what you're looking for either.
  2. Buzzark

    10.6 mpg

    Buzzark replied to kempj1's topic in General Chat

    A 48 litre tank on the golf 3 is quite small. When combined with the VR6 engine, it'll always look like the needle is moving. Most other cars run tanks around 55-60L.
  3. Buzzark

    10.6 mpg

    Buzzark replied to kempj1's topic in General Chat

  4. Buzzark
    My car had Goodyear's on when I bought it (and still on at the back) but I recently I went for Toyo Proxy T-1R's on the front and the grip wet and dry was much better, especially wet. The "R" version has a stiffend sidewall and is an all round improvement on the T-1S which it is intended to replace. I have run T-1S's before though and were pleased with them.
  5. Buzzark
    I'm thinking of getting a paint sealant for my golf. Probably the ToughSeal one. I realise the shine won't be quite as good as some of the best waxes but I'm always short of time to spend looking after my car and where we live currently washing by hand at the side of the road is a life endangering experience. Until we finally move that won't get any easier. I think I would be better getting some longer lasting protection on there rather than hoping for free time to take care of the car and not getting round to it. Does anybody here have one applied?
  6. Buzzark
    The Volvo with the popup lights is a 480, I've had 3 of them! 2.0, 1.7T and the 4wd 2.7v6 that was a rare import. Anyway, the jets are raised a little (5mm?) and had a decent spray pattern when located just in front of the screen but bear in mind that the rake of the 480 screen is very shallow. Some of the 480 models had fanned versions too which gave good wide spray coverage. Another option might be the headlamp washers off a 440/460 and I expect other cars too, as these often come with a mounting which you should be able to trim down to get your angle and styling just right... just a tho
  7. Buzzark
    The K&N filters are a cotton filter not paper and they are (unlike paper) oiled, so it's quite similar to the Ramair in cleaning and oiling at least.
  8. Buzzark
    Tesco's supplier Greenergy is actually an independant, the 99ron fuel to Tesco is a very big contract for them; http://www.greenergy.com/products/99_octane.html It's a specially refined and blended product taken from their own refinery and not just a package upgraded standard fuel. It has a different supplier than Tesco's standard 95ron fuels. Unfortunately, it's also not available at any Tesco station in my area so I haven't tried it. :?
  9. Buzzark
    Nope, the higher the octane the cleaner it burns supposedly. The Tesco 99ron fuel is actually a "green" fuel supplied by a green fuel specialist. Germany has 101 to 105 ron fuels I have read.
  10. Buzzark
    It's pretty tidy, just needs a good cleaning and waxing! We've moving house next week and I get a driveway so I can take a bit more care of it after that. Washing and waxing it currently is too dangerous - people fly down our lane and I've been hit serveral times in the past by wing mirrors. Should be able to get a few layers of wax on and stonechips done before the show.
  11. Buzzark
    I feel this may open a can of worms... I've been running thr car on Optimax since I bought it. No problems, seems to have been running fine. There's a Shell garage near work and one near home so this is conveinent too. I was running low on fuel about a week ago and went to my local garage to fill up, out of Optimax. No problem, I went to the one near work the following evening. Except they were closed! The outcome was that I needed fuel and had to pull into an Esso garage instead. They had some Esso super 97 ron, I didn't even know they stocked it so was a bit happier.. Now, here's the in
  12. Buzzark
    Well you'll see something but it's probably less relevant with a Schrick VGI or VW/pierburg VSR than it is with a standard. Also depends on whether your engine is OBDC 1 or 2, the 2's IIRC all have larger throttle bodies in the first place, hence why Stealth and others offer a bigger throttle body for the OBDC 1 cars and not the 2's. The other thing to think about is how you drive - larger throttle bodies are only useful if you run the car at full thottle. If you don't drive like that much there's no benefit.
  13. Buzzark
    I'm very pleased with the VGI, probably best used in combination with a remap to suit. Mine, with only an exhaust, induction kit, Schrick and AMD remap produces 209bhp and 210lb/ft according to the RR graphs. On the road it changes the engine making it a lot more tractable and it feels very "factory" which is what I wanted. No flatspot here at 4000rpm either, probably ironed out with the remap. The principal of the VGI though is not really cfm flow, it's about it generating positive air pressure on the inlet side. This helps air push into the cylinders more effectively when they open whereas
  14. Buzzark
    108 isn't a problem as long as you're using a decent oil and it's within it's service life (not old). Semi-synthetic e.g. the Quantam 10/40 silver is rated to 140c/150c before it starts to degrade anyway. Within it's rated temperature oil is absolutely fine, go over it and it's ability to lubricate drops dramatically and as it chemically changes the oil, permanently.
  15. Buzzark
    I'm planning to attend the show with my son on Sunday. We're probably going to travel late Saturday afternoon and stay in a hotel that night. Don't know if you want my car actually at the stand or not? I'd probably have to clean it* if you do but it's very standard looking so not exactly a crowd puller! !lol *I'm joking I do intend to clean it before attending, at least once.
  16. Buzzark
    Yeah that's a point. So really I just want the wheels, not wheels + tyres.
  17. Buzzark
    Well it's that sort of look I'm after, but not that large. 16" really, the suspension on the car at the moment is already quite stiff, I don't want to lose much more ride quality by going to 17" ers. Plus there's always the cost factor, I'm sure there are some bargains to be had with mk4 owners that have upgraded to 17" from the standard 16" rims. The GTi etc, normally wears 16" rims I think?
  18. Buzzark
    Probably been asked a thousand times, but I couldn't see it.. Do 16" wheels from a mk4 e.g. a gti, fit a 97 5 stud mk3 golf? I'm possibly looking for some 16" wheels and tyres when it comes to the point of replacing the boots on my 15" standard highline wheels. I just want something oem look, but I do fancy the R32 and Audi RS4 style alloys.
  19. Buzzark
    That's interesting... Tried pulling them both? Shot in the dark, but it could be an inlet manifold leak and running lean on those end cylinders, or head gasket blown between the 2 of them? You could try some of that spray gas used for checking inlet leaks. A compression test should prove a non gasket issue, but some garages have weird ideas on how to test compression - eg, they'll test all cylinders at once (assuming there's no open valves at some point in the cycle). That's great, but if there's a blown gasket between 2 adjacent cylinders they keep each other pumped up. Single cylinder test
  20. Buzzark
    You need to find which cylinder is missing. Disconnecting the plug lead for each cylinder until you find the one that causes the least or no difference (will depend on the severity of the mis-fire in the 1st place). Be careful when doing so though and it's probably safer to your health to do it when the engine isn't running, shock from HT leads hurt and/or kill. You can try the same thing with the injectors too. If you're running a little bit rich, you may have one blocked injector. One cylinder doesn't fuel properly, so the ECU gets a lean signal from the lambda sensor and over fuels the ot
  21. Buzzark
    Noooo!!! Don't buy a moped - buy a spare engine, or two.
  22. Buzzark
  23. Buzzark
  24. Buzzark
    I removed my MAF sensor for pre-emptive cleaning yesterday and stripped it apart to get a little suprise. While I'm sure I read it's supposed to have a hot wire sensor (made from platinum) I actually found what appears to be a pcb mounted surface film resistor (probably still made of platinum tbh). I've never seen one of these before, I had no idea they even existed. I'm also pretty sure I've read that the MAF sensor is supposed to heat to 1000.c briefly when you switch off the engine to burn off any deposits. There's no way one of these would be able to do that without melting. It's an OBDC
  25. Buzzark
    I think I'm probably just getting old! It's not my cup of tea, but it would be dull if we were all the same. I guess I prefer subtle and factory type looks.
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