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Buzzark

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Everything posted by Buzzark

  1. Giving stick on roundabout + hydraulic followers going noisey = oil starvation. Hopefully it's just the top end. Not sure what that does on a VR6 engine, but you may have seized one of the followers or damaged it so it's not pumping up enough to push the valve open fully. One cylinder (or more) out will cause the lambda sensor to send a false (not really false - it's reading what it's given) and the ECU will try to compensate. Sounds like you've got one cylinder running rich and it's leaning them all off to achieve a balanced oxygen level. That leads to 5 cylinders running lean, pinking, o
  2. Probably just needs resetting - it's a common OBD2 thing. If you've perhaps plugged in or unplugged the test kit while the ignition was on it can trigger the airbag light. Does the same on OBD2 Volvo's. Turning the ignition on while an airbag was disconnected also trips the same error.
  3. If it's just a fluids and filter change, I'll probably do it myself. I used to be in the motor trade as a previous career. Too many sharks - even the main dealers. Actually, especially the main dealers. x) Still I'm sure things are better these days. That was about 15 years ago. Plugs
  4. Fuel pump relay is a good one. Removing the steering wheel stops them breaking first though..
  5. Yeah 7-8k at least for 40,000m. I knew your wife wouldn't let you part with her car.
  6. Perhaps what you felt or heard at the time happened is relevant? I assume it was something sudden?
  7. I take it the 80k service is a big one? I'm buying Mangold's highline with 78,000m on it (picking up on Sunday *excited*), so I guess I'll be forking out after about 2 months.
  8. If it's something you're likely to keep worrying about, a checkup is probably worth it. The AA and RAC are probably a cheaper option than getting a dealer to do it and will give it a more thorough check with some sort of comeback if they get it wrong.
  9. It sounds cheap, you probably can't go too far wrong. If it IS a problem, it's still cheap after getting it sorted. Sort of a "win/win a bit less" kind of deal.
  10. Yes. They are normally a softer material than the cams (which should be hardened steel) and of course they are much cheaper than the cams. Many engines run a bucket and shim arrangement which is the same principal but uses thin discs measured exactly during adjustment to get the distances just right (instead of the old easier way of adjusting tappets with a screwdriver and a spanner). Those are like a 2 piece follower with a lift off top.... I'm getting sidetracked, the point is - replacing the top surface that touches the cam is pretty normal. Trackman has it right though. If you're repla
  11. I'm not keen - it's always feels like I've just wet myself! !amazed From what I remember 33 years ago of course, not recently.
  12. The service schedule is 10,000m I believe. It depends when it was serviced before you bought it I'd guess and how hard you drive, oil quality and condition towards the service period. Most thigns except the oil are checks, the il is the most important factor but you can change that in-between if you need rather than full services each time.
  13. Oh yeah, I meant to say about the temp being fine at 100 too - was on my way to bed. In fact above that is normal for most cars on the motorway 110-115 shold really be OK.
  14. A compression test might reveal something. Do it with a warm engine though to make sure the pistons are as good a fit as possible, you're looking for a leak from the gasket not the rings. One cylinder down and the others even, there's your culprit.
  15. Mangold and I have a deal! I'm picking it up at the weekend. The Schrick was just too tempting. !lol
  16. I might just get some 1.4 and GL badges for the back of mine. If it deters one idiot it's worth doing. Plus when people come up behind you... !amazed I used to have a 1971 Mini with 105bhp at the wheels. It was neat and tidy and just looked like a mini 1000 (complete with badge) with big-ish wheels on. Even had an RC-40 exhaust, it sounded fairly standard and quiet... until I floored it. Then it suprised everybody. I suspect the VR6 will still be faster.
  17. Yeah, Mangold's is probably top of my shopping list. Quite possibly even in it's schrick'ed up form. The difficult bit is after telling my wife that a good one can be had for
  18. That seems a bit of a challenge to get anything decent up near(ish) Stockport/Manchester. There are a couple from members up for sale which would suit but I wasn't able to arrange anything for this weekend sadly. I did look at couple this weekend though, neither of which were any good. One of which broke my heart! It was a 93,000m highline, 2 owners, full main dealer history, engine was a gem, interior was unworn. Body was tatty, tatty, tatty. It was cheap, but the bodywork was too much to consider - again, lied too by the seller when I asked very detailed questions. Car dealers, grrr. Wa
  19. Finding a nice one seems to be my biggest problem at the moment. :?
  20. http://www.stealthracing.co.uk Is the only place I've seen them,
  21. Has anybody fitted one of these and do they make any dicernable difference?
  22. Isn't a 96/97 highline probably going to be an ODB2 car or did I misunderstand?
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