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Buzzark

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Everything posted by Buzzark

  1. Hmmm. Found some info on it and it's generally regarded as pretty poor anyway on the MK3's. Just being ABS based. MK4's have throttle control too and the 4WD's have EDL (locks the centre diff between front and rear). On a MK3 though it's only active below 25mph and 50% throttle. I have the highline brochure here and it definately says standard equip. Still doesn't highlight if mine's not working or not, I suspect not as last night on VERY light throttle I was getting slow consistant wheel spin in the company car park while trying to crawl out. The wheels were probably revolving below 5mph
  2. Erm 1997 highline. There doesn't seem to BE any. The VW brochure I read while I was researching states ABS+ TCS traction control was standard on all highline's. :@ Anybody know if the brochure (and the reviews I read - which probably got their info from the brochure) is wrong or is mine just broken? It needs it in the wet but - ouch! snow and ice !amazed
  3. I'm very saddened, it can happen to the best of us - here's a guy who was super fit, didn't drink, didn't smoke, just 100% commited to perfecting his driving and still he gets his life cut short. 1 month and 1 day younger than me.
  4. You need some fog and leaving work a little later to get the best economy. It was foggy a couple of nights ago and the traffic was flowing but limited to 40 mph on the bypass and 50 mph on the motorway. I was in 5th most of the way just trundling along. Only took me 5 minutes longer to get home but managed 46.? mpg for the run home. Back to normal 32-33 now though. It's a pretty unusual route though, 10 miles, 3 roundabouts and 2 sets of traffic lights. I'm 200 yards from the bypass at one end and 1/2 mile from the motorway at the other. The Schrick probably adds a couple extra too when dow
  5. Sorry to hear of your troubles. Have you got the correct battery fitted? If your battery has tapered terminals and the clamps are straight cut, they'll always slip off. Had this on another car before, changing the battery to one with straight sided terminals cured it.
  6. For a fun car on the road an old shape mini with 1.4 block and a KAD 16v head and other engine mods + a Jack Knight 5 speed box. Spend all day on the roundabouts! Serious motors; 911 Carrera S Ferrari 246 Dino R32 I guess... I'm not into going really fast, I prefer going slower and feeling like I'm going fast. For that the old shape mini has all others beat. (except for a few japanese microcars maybe)
  7. I bet a fixed smooth/carbon pipe connecting the standard airbox and a cold air feed to the airbox would give the best benefit without the downsides. My days of spending time fabricating stuff are over though. I barely have enough time to mend all the bits of the house that get broken. !dodge
  8. The moisture from the humans sitting in it never gets out then. Unless it's really damp air outside that'll only make it worse. :? Actually it's the main reason I wanted aircon, keeps it nice and dry inside. The other reason was the 2 hot days per year.
  9. There are a couple of things that help. 1. Get yourself a microfibre cloth for wiping the mist off in the morning. Clean your screen with it too - chemicals never do it any good. Take your pick, but Spontex are very good and come in a lovely florecent green colour - you need one of these anyway, clean everything with it!!! 2. More likely to affect older cars without leather but the sponge in the seats and the carpets gradually absorb and retain moisture. For this you need to borrow a dehumidifier and seal it inside the car for a bit, you'll suck a load of latent moisture from the car. For
  10. I'm going to be fitting the standard box at least to try as my car came with a ramair fitted. I can definately feel a little loss of power once it's warmed up, but yesterday I went to B&Q (I know - insane!) and sat in traffic queueing to get out of the car park when I put my foot down to leave, it almost choked to death below half throttle. It was like that for a couple of miles and when I popped the bonnet and felt the air around the ramair it was very "toasty". !ill I'll try a standard filter first, and see how it feels - maybe try a panel if it's not quite right for me.
  11. That sounds about what VW would recommend Eat This. I'm about the same but I don't give it full throttle or revs until around 90 but really I drive more economically through the week and only really get my foot down when I go out to play badminton. It's the only open road I see - full throttle and/or revs on my daily drive would have me pushing cars up the road. !lol For normal driving even when fully warm I rarely exceed 4500 rpm - I wouldn't want to miss that huge lump of torque from 3-4000 rpm with the Schrick!
  12. Not sure if that's the same thing, it's not appearing to lack power when warmed up. However I'll bear that in mind - it seems I can read the inlet air temp through VAG.COM so I'll try that as a reference before I swap back to the standard airbox and try that. If the cheap and obvious fail I've got the other things to look at.
  13. I might swap it for the standard box and filter and try that for a week, it's not like it takes long to do. I think I'll also get a temp probe for my multimeter and measure the underbonnet temps just to see how they rise. I used to have a Mini ERA turbo, that suffered in a major way with heat soak. Nothing that a bit of body carving and fans couldn't sort though.
  14. Eh? I've mentioned several times I DON'T boot it until it's fully warmed up and not even then during normal driving... I've read through the posts... can't see me even mildy insinuating booting from cold! %-6
  15. So is heat soak that bad that it noticibly reduces power by what seems a large amount with the ramair kit? If that's so, surely we're losing power over a standard airbox when the car is warmed up? Vince gave me the original airbox (actually he gave me a boot full ) I might try fitting the standard type to compare - of course, I just packed it away in the loft last weekend. !grr
  16. For those of you that might know the car, it was Mangold's highline before I bought it. I've noticed a few times that when running cold, it's got a lot more torque that when fully warmed up. Like most people I have a daily run to/from work, there are a few roundabouts close to work and I've noticed when cold (first few minutes of running), when I'm pulling out, there's a lot more go - so much more it sometimes takes me by surprise. !amazed Now when it's warmed up, it feels fine, runs smooth and doesn't appear to be missing any power so I'm not sure if it's a normal thing, or maybe it's just r
  17. They'd have to be polycarbonate to have enough strength. Look good - I think!, look strange - definately!
  18. As long as you don't have to solder it, it's possibly worth a try. The claims aren't radical, nothing seems over the top and as for cost - yes, superchips etc charge hundreds but once the map is developed, the actual cost of the chip is around
  19. It's not something to worry about as such, but it does have effects. The tapping is the sound of the cab lobe hitting the follower. You get this because there is a gap between the 2. The gap is there because the hydraulic bucket/follower isn't pumping up fully with oil. The bucket isn't pumping up fully normally due to sludge in the oil blocking the oilway to the bucket and/or forming in the bucket shaft causing it to stick. (VW recommends fully synthetic to prevent this sludge forming, but as the engine wasn't really designed for fully synthetic, it goes through it like water - rock <>
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