
matth76
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Everything posted by matth76
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Hi I'm seeing Stealth in a month and was thinking about a possible remap (which is a dastek unichip). My golf vr6 (odb2) currently has the following modifications: - Cat back (2.25" standard bore) stainless Milltek Exhaust system. - Milltek high flow cat. - Free flowing stainless 6 branch exhaust manifold. - And soon to be fitted BMC induction kit. I know on an ODB2 Golf VR6 a remap wont actually give a rise in power on a standard car. Other than the initial increase in power to 200bhp I already have with the mods above, will I "gain" any more power/torque, on top of this with a remap or w
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Thanks for your reply. Has anyone got uprated Vibratechnic engine mounts (front and gearbox) - how was your car? Did gear changes become easier?
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DeathBob... is your car on GMAX springs in your first pic with the standard alloys? The gap between the tyre and the wheel arch looks much smaller with your new 17" wheels than with the standard 15" wheels..which is odd.. I would have thought the gap would be the same regardless of the alloy size, because the overall wheel+tyre diameter should be the same (unless the first pic was with standard suspension). Your new wheels really suit the car, much better than the standard alloys. Do you have any close up pics with your car on GMAX with the standard alloys please?
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Thanks for the replies. Anyone on here got a VR6 with a GMAX kit? They only lower the car 35mm but that's still 5mm more than most kits (other than coilovers). My car's only got standard 15" bbs wheels so will be interesting whether my car looks a bit lower or not (I'm running the standard tyres for the 15" wheels - 205 width, 50 profile). Hopefully the handling will be improved though as the standard handling is cr*p. I was thinking about FK Highsports coilovers a couple of months ago and posted a couple questions about them but nobody on here has been able to give any reviews about them
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Hi I'm having Vibratechnic uprated engine mounts fitted to my golf vr6 as I've just had a stainless steel exhaust manifold fitted so want to eliminate engine movement as much as possible. The Phirm are doing the work so it should be in very good hands. They have recommended I only have the gearbox mount and the front mount done. Its not necessary to change the rear one as that doesn't take much load like the other two mounts plus it's right next to the steering column (if it's changed it can cause vibrations through the steering wheel), so I'm just having the two mounts done only and not the
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Killokiller seems like a very good VR specialist.
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Post Removed by VR6Pete.
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Hi I am thinking about getting the GMAX kit fitted. The Phirm recommended it as a very good value kit (which lasts) and which really improved the handling of the Golf VR6. Has anyone on here got this kit fitted or ever had one? How did your car handle round corners compared to standard suspension - how was the body roll and cornering stability at high speed? I've heard some people say SPAX kits are bouncy. I'm sure I read somewhere that SPAX and GMAX were the same or similar companies (I may be wrong on this though). In which case how bouncy are the GMAX kits?? Basically I want my sta
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Thanks. Is specialised equipment needed then? I'm seeing The Phirm this saturday - is this something they can do?
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Hi I was looking at Stealth's website and they seem to specialise in rebuilding and also uprating engine cylinder heads - one way is to "gas flow" it. How much does this normally cost and are the power / torque gains worth it? Does it improve low down torque as opposed to top end power? I assume a 'big valve' head is different to a gas flowed head? And what is a ported head? What are the costs and power gains for each? Thanks for any info. Cheers Matt
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How easy is it for this compression test to be done? Is it one or two hours work and what do these tests cost roughly?
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Are Spax very similar to GMAX suspension kits (aren't the two companies related)? Are GMAX kits bouncy like Spax? Why would they make kits that are more bouncy than standard suspension ?? I was thinking about having a GMAX kit fitted soon. I may give it a miss if it is more bouncy than standard. Where's a good place to get FK Highsports? And what kind of price are they... do they offer a good ride? Ideally I want it firmer than standard but not 'too' firm that my teeth shatter.
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Hi For some reason today the when I visit any forum the page keeps reloading over and over. It only seems to happen when you click into any of the forums pages. It's fine now writing a thread and it's also fine in the top level list of forums page, it's only when you click into one of the individual forums (I've just tested it and it only seems to happen in the General Forum and the Mechanical Problems and Tuning forum pages.. not the others which are fine). Basically the page keeps flashing over and over as it reloads. I can still write threads if I quickly double click the New Thread butt
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Wheel spacers - what do these do?
matth76 replied to matth76's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Is it safe to use spacers on just my standard alloys? My aim is to make my wheels flush with my wheel arches (so it's mainly for show). I've got a golf vr6 with the standard 15" bbs alloys. What size spacers do you recommend and what's the cost? -
Hi I've heard lots of people use wheel spacers when they have new alloys fitted. However what exactly do wheel spacers do for the wheels? Do they make the wheels stick out further towards the wheel arch... for example if the alloys are rubbing slightly on calipers would fitting spacers solve this problem? Is it not advisable to stick wheel spacers on standard wheels... for example if I wanted my standard wheels to move slightly further towards the wheel arch? Cheers Matt
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I had a similar problem a while back. Had just been to Caffyns for a 'full' service, after I bought the car. Took it to The Phirm and immediately found out every single plug was not tightened properly by Caffyns. Each one was loose! Check they are all fully tightened and then do as above and check the coilpack for sparks where the leads connect to it. The leads should ideally by genuine VW ones. Magnacore are good if you're running big power (i.e with a supercharger). Check the plugs are the correct ones too. Then connect it to VAG COM to see if it's a faulty sensor. Does it only happ
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Caddy, the car you're interested in is a non-highline like mine. I bought my VR 6 months ago for £3400 and it had 69k on the clock FSH, 97 P-reg and immaculate condition.. apart from couple of stone chips on the front grill. I would offer low 3's mate as it's nearly got 90k mileage, otherwise walk away.
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The Focus RS's actually hold their value very well. If you pick one up for 15-16k now they will still sell for that a year later. Nice cars and fairly rare. Definitely tune it up to 270bhp+. Do you own the car or were you just test driving it? How does it compare to your VR6? A standard focus RS shouldn't be much different performance wise to a mildly tuned VR (with 200bhp). A tuned RS is a different matter though! Talking about torque steer... when ever I overtake I really have to apply the power carefully (can't just plant my foot) as I can feel the steering wheel pulling. I'm gettin
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The compression ratio with the head is different - the mark 3 has a lower compression due to a slightly thicker head gasket. However it is weaker than the later mark 4 head gaskets. The ECU will need replacing too with the ecu from the mark 3 and possibly some of the wiring loom. All depends on which engine you are after. Why do you need to put an older engine in a new car? I assume it's because the engine you've chosen has more power? If you are after a V6 engine go for the 24v v6 lump from the V6 "4-Motion". It is more likely to be compatible with your car, more so than a mark 3 lump.
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£3300 is a bit low. I bought mine back in July last year for £3400 with 69k miles 97 year FSH full 12 months MOT and 3 months tax. The MOT and tax on your car may be around the £240-250 mark assuming nothing needs doing (which the buyer may knock you down on). But even so your car has done relatively low mileage at 57k with FSH. And it has full leather being a highline. Your mods wont add much value to the car (as mods never do) but it will be more 'appealing' (use your mods as an excuse not to lower the price too much when the buyer tries to knock you down). I would advertise at £42
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Nice car mate the Cupra R. Being a turbo its also very tunable I've always liked the Cupra. Good colour too. Like quite a few others on here I'm sticking with my VR for the next few years. Looking to buy a house fairly soon which will eat up my money! In the distant future I'd also go for possibly an R32 (the mark 4). I recently saw one (a mark 4 shape) and it was in a bright blue colour (same as the Ford Focus RS or Escort Cosworth blue). Looked very nice. There was a feature about a twin turbo R32 recently with 400bhp and I think 380ft/lbs torque available from as low as 2800rpm! The
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If only a shorter final drive is fitted would this alter the whole gear box or just the 'final' fifth gear? If it was just a case of fitting a final drive (second hand from a G60 - which is as you say shorter at 3.68) then that would be brilliant - if it can be done. The garage I spoke to didn't think so. The Phirm are doing my gearbox removal so it's in very good hands. I would just love to take this opportunity to improve the gears in any way. Can anyone confirm if all the other gears need changing or can I 'just' pay an extra 200 and have a shorter final drive fitted or will my gearbox b