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matth76

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Everything posted by matth76

  1. Hi I'm getting a BMC fitted for free the same day as I get my car rolling roaded, in March by Stealth. I was originally wondering whether there would be any difference to me fitting the BMC myself a couple of weeks before the rolling road, compared to having the BMC fitted literally just before the rolling road: would there be any performance output differences? I thought the ECU would need time to relearn the new settings. I've found out from Stealth that there will be no difference and I will see the performance increase straight away. Stealth are doing the work... I asked them about my q
  2. Anyone here know what the ride quality is like with these cup kits? Thanks for any help.
  3. Yeah I noticed that when I posted a while back on the VWVortex forum. Mine has made a huge difference. Far more torque low down. Getting my car rolling roaded in 3 weeks at Stealth, along with a BMC so should see what power difference it has made. My last rr figure was around 195bhp. I'll see what the new figure is.
  4. What exactly is a "header"? From what they seemed to be saying a header is a waste of time.
  5. Hi I've seen Venom are doing the BMC CDA induction kit for the mk3 golf vr6 for £145 + vat which works out at £170. I'm assuming delivery won't be much more than £5. Has anyone here used Venom... what's their service like and how long do they normally take to deliver? Cheers Matt
  6. Hi Tuningwerkes are selling H&R cup kits for £348 for a Golf VR6. Are they any good? They are doing H&R deals according to PVW mag. Has anyone used them? Do they last? It says on the H&R website that they lower the car more than 2". Sounds very good on a VR6... must be 50mm. How good are Tuningwerkes...are they reliable and how good is their "after" service? Thanks for any help. Cheers Matt
  7. Hi I use Continental Premium Contact tyres on my standard 15" wheels (the tyre size I use is 205 width, 50 profile, and 86v speed rating). Not sure how good they are but they were on the car when I bought it and seem very good quality. How good are they compared to other makes? Are Continentals average/good/ or very good? I'm going to be needing two new tyres soon. How much do you think each tyre will be? What tyres does everyone else use on their golf vr6 and how much are yours? Cheers Matt
  8. What does a clay bar do? Is that something to do with 'preparation'? Does anyone here use Zymol? What preparation is required exactly (other than washing the car beforehand)? Is there any particular "type" of Zymol to go for or is it just one type of wax? Does Zymol contain any polish or is it just mainly carnuba wax? Does it last a long time? Is Meguiars NXT the carnuba wax? Ideally I'd just like to get the wax on its own. Is any preparation needed for this (other than washing beforehand)? How often does this have to be applied, or how long does it last normally? Cheers for your help g
  9. £8.50 for 5 litres?? There's non synthetic synta available too. Is this what you use?
  10. Nice! What size wheels do you have and how much is it lowered by? I forgot to mention where do you all buy your wax from? Is carnuba wax very good... does this protect against birds muck? How long does it last and where could I get some? Also is Zymol any good? How long does it last and how much is it... is there any kind of prep to do before applying any of the waxes (other than washing and 'chamying' it)?
  11. Hi I'm sure this has been covered before but what wax does everyone use to make their car nice and shiny? Which products are long lasting and protective (how longer lasting) and which products are crap? I use the Turtle Wax metallic car wax... which is in the blue bottle... nice and easy to apply (just apply, let dry and buff off) and seems to last a while. I haven't yet used any kind of polish as that is slightly abrasive so I understand - I may apply it once or twice a year if it needs it. Wax not only makes the car shiny but protects it (although mine doesn't stop birds muck eating into
  12. Thanks guys. No offense intended at all Richie... it's only the Caffyns in Goring, West Sussex that are really bad...really bad. Twice they have been rude to my gf. Once when she went in there enquiring to buy a brand new polo... they treated her like cr*p with no respect at all (rather similar to the Pretty Woman film where the girl goes into the expensive clothes shop). She's in her early 20's but even so. Anyway their loss...she went straight to Sidlow in Guildford and bought one! That'll teach them...losing a £9k sale like that when she was dead set on buying one. Back to the oil
  13. Anyone? Or can anyone recommend any products to try that won't damage my paint work, but work really well to remove scratches..as I'd rather try it myself that pay someone to do it? However I need to know which product to try that will likely work, and which products I should definitely avoid. Cheers Matt
  14. I've got one fitted that looks exactly like that Raceland one. I find with mine there is far more torque from 2000 revs onwards... although I have just had my chains and clutch done which could have something to do with it. At my last rolling road at Stealth (with just a Milltek cat back and high flow cat) I had close to 195bhp. My car as already said feels far more pokey lower down. I'm getting a BMC fitted at Stealth at the end of the month and also a rolling road session - so should see what improvement a BMC and my exhaust manifold has made over my last rolling road figure of 195.
  15. Mine is a silver bottle like you say but has Quantum in big letters all over it, and no where does it say "Synta Silver", only Synta Synthetic Blend Motor Oil. Seems to be what you say above, but the bloke in Caffyns said it was not semi synthetic and it doesn't say "semi"-synthetic anywhere. I'm going to try a Sidlow as from my experience they are far better than Caffyns and know what they are talking about. Someone on the corrado forum said it should say "Synta Silver" on the bottle.
  16. An auto...hardly a threat as manuals are far quicker in like for like cars. I would think you would have a win there mate.
  17. Nice car mate. Def keep the wheels... suit it really well. Sits nice and low on them.
  18. Yeah a faulty hall/cam sensor can lose you up to 20-30bhp !!
  19. I've heard from some VR garages that Ashley ones are more prone to breaking. However quite a few people have said they are fine and really good. Find out if they have "flexi-joints" to keep them fairly independent to engine movement. If they do they should be pretty good. I have a stainless steel custom 6 branch with these flexy joints. Some say mild steel is more prone to breaking because it is slightly weaker than fully stainless steel... although with any 6 branch (whether mild or fully stainless) as long as you get uprated engine mounts (front and gearbox) it should be fine. I've kept m
  20. I'm not surprised you kept up with a new Golf GTI... on paper (even with a DSG) they should have the same if not slower performance specs to a mildly tuned VR with 190-200bhp. The quoted 0-60 is 7.1 secs for a non-DSG, and 6.8-6.9 for a DSG version. The "standard" performance spec for an ODB2 golf (with the factory ~185bhp) does 7.0-7.1. With another 15-20bhp I can see that being improved upon with good gear changes. The new bug eye scoobies have a much much less power to wait ratio than a VR. They will have good off the line acceleration but the VR would soon catch up with it down a long
  21. Hi My girlfriend went into a Caffyns store today to the Parts Dept to pick up some Syntha Silver 10w 40 (semi-synthetic) engine oil for me. Sounds simple enough... Well not with Caffyns! Firstly the bottle she came back with doesn't even say "Syntha Silver" anywhere on it she said, secondly the Caffyns man told my gf that it wasn't semi-synthetic, and thirdly the man said you shouldn't use semi-synthetic in a golf VR6. How cr*p are they? Anyway I haven't even seen the bottle yet but I told my gf it's clearly not the one and I'm taking it back Sat morning before 11am (the only time they're
  22. Hi I have some scratches which are very light but spread over a large area and on different areas of the car. I suspect they have come from a bit of grit in the sponge or chamois when the car was washed. I'm going to give T-cut a go but in my experience T-cut doesn't seem to do anything on my VR with its lacquered paint work. I've thought about paint compound but (although being much harsher than T-cut) I am pretty sure it won't make any head way on lacquered paint either. Does anyone know some good cheap reliable scratch repair companies in Sussex area that you have used and were very imp
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